Stuck Active Exhaust Actuator (GT)

[Stangygt]

If it’s past 60k factory warranty it’s not covered under extended warranty !

Also if he installed headers himself and not Ford, it could void parts of his warranty

Sponsored

 

[Stangygt]

My car definitely does not do that, since you can clearly hear the 'clicks', and the exhaust tone changes. That's probably the bad actuator too, no? I thought you activated the self test thru the secret menu, or other such way. Let us know if when you start your car normally it does that 'test', out of curiosity. No remote start on manual cars, so can't check that myself. Thx.

!

I have a bad actuator currently , the cost for everything would be 1k for one actuator ! So I suggest you do it your self or remove the axel back as a whole ! If it’s not warranted!

if you installed a x pipe from Ford you will have active exhaust problems! Especially when it’s burns up the fuse and Ford can’t fix that :/ under warranty my azz ! It pops every time ! So uh quick fix I’m welding mine in place and pulling the fuse / deleting code

 

[Rapid Red]

!

I have a bad actuator currently , the cost for everything would be 1k for one actuator ! So I suggest you do it your self or remove the axel back as a whole ! If it’s not warranted!

if you installed a x pipe from Ford you will have active exhaust problems! Especially when it’s burns up the fuse and Ford can’t fix that :/ under warranty my azz ! It pops every time ! So uh quick fix I’m welding mine in place and pulling the fuse / deleting code

Installing the X pipe has nothing to do with AE operation. Removing the suitcase & installing the X pipe. However does require the pipes on the backside of the suitcase. And back to the mufflers, to be cut & moved, and there lies the rub.

Not noted or suggested in the install instructions. The plugs on the valves should be disconnected, before the cutting begins.

Once the assembly is cut loose from the suitcase, 1 hanger on the muffler supports the assembly. It will get twisted when removed & most likely when installing. The plug on the pass side has the least amount of clearance to the body. And most times will be the one damaged in the process.

Quick fix unless the plug or wiring has been totally fkup. 2 ways turn ignition on (not start), valves run self-test, close > full open. Turn off disconnect plugs done. Or set go fast mode too track, turn off ignition same dance, done. No welding required.

Option # 3 replace the mufflers, removing the active exhaust completely. You may see active exhaust unavailable a few times, that will clear/reset by itself. The car will learn to ignore that and message is gone.

 

[Stangygt]

Installing the X pipe has nothing to do with AE operation. Removing the suitcase & installing the X pipe. However does require the pipes on the backside of the suitcase. And back to the mufflers, to be cut & moved, and there lies the rub.

Not noted or suggested in the install instructions. The plugs on the valves should be disconnected, before the cutting begins.

Once the assembly is cut loose from the suitcase, 1 hanger on the muffler supports the assembly. It will get twisted when removed & most likely when installing. The plug on the pass side has the least amount of clearance to the body. And most times will be the one damaged in the process.

Quick fix unless the plug or wiring has been totally fkup. 2 ways turn ignition on (not start), valves run self-test, close > full open. Turn off disconnect plugs done. Or set go fast mode too track, turn off ignition same dance, done. No welding required.

Option # 3 replace the mufflers, removing the active exhaust completely. You may see active exhaust unavailable a few times, that will clear/reset by itself. The car will learn to ignore that and message is gone.

I started having active control problem when they installed it ! With no tune ! Fresh out the shop , two seconds it popped ! My car was brand new at the time ! K have already done turn to race and pull the fuse! It was open for about 6 months and then then butterfly valve sound like it’s flapping ! So and it’s not covered after 60k ! Trust me I already went thru the channels ! This active exhaust is weak I wouldn’t want to recommend it! Like why do u want to press three four buttons to get it to race ! Should be in at all times

 

[Rapid Red]

Yes it is a bit of a gotcha, installing the X pipe myself is how I found out.

"Like why do u want to press three four buttons to get it to race ! Should be in at all times"

Could not agree more with that.

Fixed that problem.

 

[cimbt001]

I have the same problem - had a perf shop install a Borla Switchfire mid pipe and dealer is charging me $1000 to replace the harness and one actuator.

BTW Ford has a service bulletin on the GT 500 selective exhaust for the same problem. It may take a while for it to filter down to our GTs.

 

[Rapid Red]

I have the same problem - had a perf shop install a Borla Switchfire mid pipe and dealer is charging me $1000 to replace the harness and one actuator.

BTW Ford has a service bulletin on the GT 500 selective exhaust for the same problem. It may take a while for it to filter down to our GTs.

And the problem is ? Short pink tail from actuator to main harness ? Or actuator one or the other will not be both.

First the actuator is a common part

The pink tail, actuator to main harness ruffly 50 bucks.

And it can be done without removing the muffler. 800 bucks labor ...........?......... think one could be getting hosed ?

BTW "perf shop installing the Borla Switchfire " Damage the plug on the actuator, moving the tail pipe & muffler around.

After cutting out the suitcase, and connecting the tail pipe to the switchfire.

Very common occurrence when doing the resonator delete, for X & H pipe.

So go after the "perf shop installing the Borla Switchfire " they caused it, is not on Ford's back.

 

[cimbt001]

And the problem is ? Short pink tail from actuator to main harness ? Or actuator one or the other will not be both.

First the actuator is a common part

That’s my strategy is to go after the performance shop
The pink tail, actuator to main harness ruffly 50 bucks.

And it can be done without removing the muffler. 800 bucks labor ...........?......... think one could be getting hosed ?

BTW "perf shop installing the Borla Switchfire " Damage the plug on the actuator, moving the tail pipe & muffler around.

After cutting out the suitcase, and connecting the tail pipe to the switchfire.

Very common occurrence when doing the resonator delete, for X & H pipe.

So go after the "perf shop installing the Borla Switchfire " they caused it, is not on Ford's back.

I’ll be going after the perf shop.

 

[Stangygt]

I’ll be going after the perf shop.

Yeah I would do it myself or just weld it ! I haven’t had a code for a long time ! That’s crazy how the labor is 800-900 ! I remember on another car they were charging me 800 for a distributor cap , they said they had to remove a lot of stuff , part was 20$ and all I had to do was remove the intake lmao !!
Weld the butterfly valves in the active exhaust , pull the dust and remove the harness in the back ! It’s weak

Sponsored