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3 connections are for the following:
Center is the inlet from the crankcase. All vapors run through.
1 outlet is for the intake manifold vacuum that is used for the primary evacuation of the crankcase.
2nd outlet is for when intake manifold vacuum drops to zero due to reversion pules canceling it out. This is during acceleration and WOT operation so this system uses the suction available just upstream of the throttle body. These systems eliminate crankcase pressure from building during acceleration and WOT when the damaging combustion byproducts settle and mix with the oil as they are not being evacuated.
So, a few things happen:
1. Eliminating crankcase pressure, especially during acceleration and WOT results in a much more stable piston ring and this less blow-by. = more power by eliminating the parasitic loss of battle the pressure on the piston down-stroke.
2. Engine oil remains cleaner longer by always evacuating and removing the damaging compounds as soon as they enter the crankcase as blow-by while still in a gaseous or suspended state. As the PCV system comes from the factory, it only utilizes IM vacuum to accomplish this, so the contaminants entering will quickly settle and mix with the engine oil and remain their and accumulate. This is the main source of wear in an engine today, the water, sulfuric acid, abrasive soot/ash/carbon, unburnt fuel, etc. that is what blow-by is made up of. Once mixed with the oil, most is there to stay and as the oil filter can only trap down to 15 microns sized particles, the vast majority of these are in the 2-7 micron range and will constantly circulate and cause wear.
So, this is the next best thing to a belt driven vacuum pump system (which is best) but they won't live long on the street. This type system not only drastically improves on the OEM PCV systems functions, it also traps 95% plus of the oil and other compounds where the average "catchcan" only traps 15-30% so a great deal still gets drawn past them. Also, the test stoli is conducting anyone can perform to see just how well, or how poorly any "catchcan" actually works as most only judge by seeing oil when they drain the can, they have no idea how much actually is just "pulled through" a can to still be ingested.
You want to stop all oil and other contaminats from ingestion as anything but air/fuel in the combustion chamber results in less energy released by negatively affecting the burn rate, burn pattern, etc. as well as the KR results from detonation caused. If you delete, or defeat the PCV system you are allowing all the contaminates to remain in the crankcase and also are allowing pressure to always be present (even with breathers) so the engine will last a fraction of the time it will with removing these damaging compounds.
So, hope that helps!
Tech
Center is the inlet from the crankcase. All vapors run through.
1 outlet is for the intake manifold vacuum that is used for the primary evacuation of the crankcase.
2nd outlet is for when intake manifold vacuum drops to zero due to reversion pules canceling it out. This is during acceleration and WOT operation so this system uses the suction available just upstream of the throttle body. These systems eliminate crankcase pressure from building during acceleration and WOT when the damaging combustion byproducts settle and mix with the oil as they are not being evacuated.
So, a few things happen:
1. Eliminating crankcase pressure, especially during acceleration and WOT results in a much more stable piston ring and this less blow-by. = more power by eliminating the parasitic loss of battle the pressure on the piston down-stroke.
2. Engine oil remains cleaner longer by always evacuating and removing the damaging compounds as soon as they enter the crankcase as blow-by while still in a gaseous or suspended state. As the PCV system comes from the factory, it only utilizes IM vacuum to accomplish this, so the contaminants entering will quickly settle and mix with the engine oil and remain their and accumulate. This is the main source of wear in an engine today, the water, sulfuric acid, abrasive soot/ash/carbon, unburnt fuel, etc. that is what blow-by is made up of. Once mixed with the oil, most is there to stay and as the oil filter can only trap down to 15 microns sized particles, the vast majority of these are in the 2-7 micron range and will constantly circulate and cause wear.
So, this is the next best thing to a belt driven vacuum pump system (which is best) but they won't live long on the street. This type system not only drastically improves on the OEM PCV systems functions, it also traps 95% plus of the oil and other compounds where the average "catchcan" only traps 15-30% so a great deal still gets drawn past them. Also, the test stoli is conducting anyone can perform to see just how well, or how poorly any "catchcan" actually works as most only judge by seeing oil when they drain the can, they have no idea how much actually is just "pulled through" a can to still be ingested.
You want to stop all oil and other contaminats from ingestion as anything but air/fuel in the combustion chamber results in less energy released by negatively affecting the burn rate, burn pattern, etc. as well as the KR results from detonation caused. If you delete, or defeat the PCV system you are allowing all the contaminates to remain in the crankcase and also are allowing pressure to always be present (even with breathers) so the engine will last a fraction of the time it will with removing these damaging compounds.
So, hope that helps!
Tech
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stoli
Fat Guy Racing
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Next project is ready. Ford Racing shocks and Steeda Ultralight linear springs courtesy of [MENTION=10530]MustangCollector[/MENTION].
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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stoli
Fat Guy Racing
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Definitely. I'll probably install them tonight.
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MustangCollector
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glad they got there safely there. FYI take your time on the fronts the springs coiled a bit different than OEM. i suggest you figure out the orientation of the upper strut cup and mount, compress the spring and then assembly the struts up front. apply some grease to the rubber cup on the upper strut mount as well. do the final torque of the strut nut with the car on the ground both sides loaded, it can be a PITA otherwise. Steeda may have a install doc on their site to check out. let me know how you like this combo i love them still on my car.
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stoli
Fat Guy Racing
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Just because...
jefc73
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Nice John. You get the struts/shocks and linear springs on? Took a few pics of mine on today. On my build thread. 
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stoli
Fat Guy Racing
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Nice John. You get the struts/shocks and linear springs on? Took a few pics of mine on today. On my build thread.
Wednesday is the plan. I was a lot busier this weekend than I expected and couldn't get to it. I'm just taking it up to the shop and having them knock it out for me and then getting an alignment.
MustangCollector
Well-Known Member
Please post some feedback in my suspension thread when you have the moment it will def help others out to get more feedback especially from various regions and road conditions in the US
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stoli
Fat Guy Racing
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Had a great day at the track yesterday, 75 degrees and sunny; couldn't have asked for better weather.
Video from outside the car:
[ame]
Video from outside the car:
[ame]
Gibbo205
Well-Known Member
Looking superb on track, I think suspension wise we have identical setups, I am running:
FRPP Dampers
FRPP swaybars
Steeda Ultralite linear springs
Steeda G-trac front brace
Steeda differential bushing insert system (red)
BMR CB005 cradle lockout kit
I have 15mm rear eibach spacers with longer studs.
A couple of questions please:
1. I noticed you say you had 20mm front spacers and longer studs from ARP, you got a link to where you got the studs from please and specification of the spacers you had Lenny make you?
2. On your above photos from the track day is that with 305 tyre in the back?
FRPP Dampers
FRPP swaybars
Steeda Ultralite linear springs
Steeda G-trac front brace
Steeda differential bushing insert system (red)
BMR CB005 cradle lockout kit
I have 15mm rear eibach spacers with longer studs.
A couple of questions please:
1. I noticed you say you had 20mm front spacers and longer studs from ARP, you got a link to where you got the studs from please and specification of the spacers you had Lenny make you?
2. On your above photos from the track day is that with 305 tyre in the back?
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stoli
Fat Guy Racing
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The studs are from Cortex Racing; but be forewarned, they are 1/2" and not 14mm. I'm still on the hunt for a 2 1/2" or possibly even 2" stud that's 14mm to match the oem.
Nothing special about the spacers, they are the standard 20mm spacers he's selling.
The rear tire is 285/40/19. Next up will be a 285/35/19. Finally my speedo will be back in check. ;)
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stoli
Fat Guy Racing
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