Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[scott_0]

has anyone used Forscan to flatten the signal in either their 9 or 12 speaker systems and eliminated their factory amp with good results?

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[z06psi]

has anyone used Forscan to flatten the signal in either their 9 or 12 speaker systems and eliminated their factory amp with good results?

I am getting ready to go down this road. Just waiting on some more stuff to come in. I have the stock 12 speaker system.

I plan on intercepting the signals I want to amplify after the DSP and put a JL Audio FiX86 in place to flatten what I want. Run that into the TwK88 to accomplish whatever processing I want. I am hoping to leave the center channel in place and just replace the speaker itself.

Then over to a JL Audio 800-8v2 to run all the fronts, tweets, and rears. The sub channels will go to a 1000-1v2 to two Rockford Shallow depth DVC 2 ohm 10" subs in their own enclosures in the sides of the trunk. I will fiberglass these myself and carpet them like the rest of the trunk.


This is my plan at least. Still a little in discovery mode now like what speakers I want to run up front and in the rear.

 

[Racemaster]

what part number do the terminals in the second row have, i.e. the terminals that match the blades?

1326030-3 is 14/16 gauge.1326030-4 is 10/12 gauge.

I never used them as I pc board mounted my plugs.

 

[Cathul]

what part number do the terminals in the second row have, i.e. the terminals that match the blades?

1326030-3 is 14/16 gauge.1326030-4 is 10/12 gauge.

I never used them as I pc board mounted my plugs.

Thank you very much for this info.

Cheers....

 

[Bigdrumma22]

Base/300A

Something I'm still not clear on after reading through many threads and maybe I missed it, but does the base/300A ACM require any modifications? I've seen so much info on the 9/12 speaker systems but not much on the base.

 

[vnzbd]

I am curious about the base 6 speaker system as well. I did purchase the programmer from OEM and tried to run it but for some reason it did not take. It was supposed to convert the speaker level to line level and remove any processing, specifically bass roll off. I did tap off of the front channels and run speaker level to my amp. I have no audible bass roll off nor any other distortion that I hear. Let the experts chime in...

 

[pctek]

Asking the dealership to check my Shaker Pro system

I have a 2015 GT Premium with the 12 speaker Shaker Pro system. Next week my car goes in for a couple of warranty repairs and I've asked them to have their audio person check my Shaker Pro because when I have the system set for "All Seats" I can run at almost wide open on the volume setting and very little audio seems to come out of the two rear deck speakers. I remember when I ordered the system it boasted a 500+ watt rating, so I figured I'd have plenty of power to each speaker, but the two (or should I say four) rear deck speakers just don't make much sound, almost as if during assembly the speaker holes were not cut out of the deck material to allow the sound to come out.. (do they still make speaker cut outs??). As others have mentioned here, when I change "All Seats" to "driver" it is much louder and the center "dash" speaker can be heard. But I prefer the "All Seats" mix. I've played with the fader and EQ settings with no improvement and am currently running 80% of the audio fed to the rear speakers and 20% for the front speakers and that just doesn't seem right.

Also, on does anyone have a "Shaker Pro" name plate in that small pocket in front of the gear shift? Mine just says "Shaker"... Any idea's on what may be the cause of the difference in rear volume levels?

Thank you

 

[djcwardog]

Today I was able to finish this up. Using the new “branded” dsp amp, I got a measured 6v from pin 9 on the gray plug. This is the sub amp turn-on signal. I couldn't get that wire to output voltage from the original amp that came in the car - 400A package.

And... it all works now! Between the separate door 6.5 mid woofers and the sub, my low bass is acceptable for now.

End result - to go from 400A to 401A stereo I had to get a used ACM head unit, used sub and its amp and trunk brackets, and the “m” branded DSP. Of course, also all those Kicker speakers as well.

Also wanted to add the results of my FORScan coding to enable the subwoofer.

In the ACM 727-01-02 deals with “EQ Selection” and offers the choices of #0-#9 for xXxx-xx. My car was originally a 9 speaker 400A car, and this was set at x2xx-xx. I followed forum advice and changed to x3xx-xx to match the code found in a 401A car. This enabled my subwoofer.

Following other forum advice that selecting #9 would lower the highs and increase the bass, I just tried it. FAIL!

For my car x9xx-xx shut off the subwoofer and reduced the bass in the lower doors, not good. I just reset it to x3xx-xx and all had returned to good bass again. Mind you - the stock stuff does not boom or extend super-low, but for casual listening this was an upgrade worth pursuing.

 

[cking]

what is a m branded DSP?

 

[DAZZA]

Sorry to break the news to you,but there is no hiss.You might have a bad ground on one of your rca plugs.Or something is bad on your amp.:shrug:

Ok rechecked the wiring and its all correct signal is clean but there is a constant hiss???

I plugged earphones into both front and rear RCA outputs from the wiring loom so no factory amp or aftermarket amp and I hear a hiss through the earphones???

Is this because I have not yet reprogrammed the ACM??

I stumbled. If there is a hiss why the factory amp doesn't pick it up and amplifier it?

I am sure I have the correct wiring on my preamp outputs but will check this again.

 

[djcwardog]

#515

what is a m branded DSP?

See my earlier post #515 for details but Ford lists two of these units. The “branded” part number ends in M. The other one ends in N.

 

[mumbles]

Ok rechecked the wiring and its all correct signal is clean but there is a constant hiss???

I plugged earphones into both front and rear RCA outputs from the wiring loom so no factory amp or aftermarket amp and I hear a hiss through the earphones???

Is this because I have not yet reprogrammed the ACM??

I stumbled. If there is a hiss why the factory amp doesn't pick it up and amplifier it?

I am sure I have the correct wiring on my preamp outputs but will check this again.

I went back and read your post where you first mentioned the hiss. The fact that the hiss doesn't get louder with an increase in volume sounds like a "ground-loop" hiss. To verify this, I would remove your hand built cable and connect your headphones or a multimeter set to a low AC volts setting directly to the factory plug... if the hiss is gone, your cable may need to add a ground wire to the black or brown plug of your cable.

Although the diagram doesn't show a ground pin, I would suspect that the ACM is getting it's ground from the amp and now that the amp is not connected, the ground may be floating. Typically, a shield is a ground point, and the original diagram on page 1 shows pin 19 of the black plug as a shield. I'd connect a wire to pin 19 and while monitoring the hiss, touch the other end of the wire to the amp chassis which is still grounded and see if the hiss goes away.

 

[DAZZA]

I went back and read your post where you first mentioned the hiss. The fact that the hiss doesn't get louder with an increase in volume sounds like a "ground-loop" hiss. To verify this, I would remove your hand built cable and connect your headphones or a multimeter set to a low AC volts setting directly to the factory plug... if the hiss is gone, your cable may need to add a ground wire to the black or brown plug of your cable.

Although the diagram doesn't show a ground pin, I would suspect that the ACM is getting it's ground from the amp and now that the amp is not connected, the ground may be floating. Typically, a shield is a ground point, and the original diagram on page 1 shows pin 19 of the black plug as a shield. I'd connect a wire to pin 19 and while monitoring the hiss, touch the other end of the wire to the amp chassis which is still grounded and see if the hiss goes away.

Thanks Mumbles - You are a legend. I will try this and report back.

 

[DAZZA]

I went back and read your post where you first mentioned the hiss. The fact that the hiss doesn't get louder with an increase in volume sounds like a "ground-loop" hiss. To verify this, I would remove your hand built cable and connect your headphones or a multimeter set to a low AC volts setting directly to the factory plug... if the hiss is gone, your cable may need to add a ground wire to the black or brown plug of your cable.

Although the diagram doesn't show a ground pin, I would suspect that the ACM is getting it's ground from the amp and now that the amp is not connected, the ground may be floating. Typically, a shield is a ground point, and the original diagram on page 1 shows pin 19 of the black plug as a shield. I'd connect a wire to pin 19 and while monitoring the hiss, touch the other end of the wire to the amp chassis which is still grounded and see if the hiss goes away.

Just had a look at the back plug and it only has 16 pins no pin19?

Looking at the diagram it appears that pin 16 is a shield. perhaps this must be used for GND?

I cant get into this connector with a multi meter so my plan will be to connect my earphones again connect up a wire to pin 16 and short it to amp chassis for a gnd connection and see if hiss goes away.

 

[DAZZA]

I went back and read your post where you first mentioned the hiss. The fact that the hiss doesn't get louder with an increase in volume sounds like a "ground-loop" hiss. To verify this, I would remove your hand built cable and connect your headphones or a multimeter set to a low AC volts setting directly to the factory plug... if the hiss is gone, your cable may need to add a ground wire to the black or brown plug of your cable.

Although the diagram doesn't show a ground pin, I would suspect that the ACM is getting it's ground from the amp and now that the amp is not connected, the ground may be floating. Typically, a shield is a ground point, and the original diagram on page 1 shows pin 19 of the black plug as a shield. I'd connect a wire to pin 19 and while monitoring the hiss, touch the other end of the wire to the amp chassis which is still grounded and see if the hiss goes away.

Sorry one more quick post. Perhaps I try with leaving the brown plug plugged into the factory amplifier when I do this test as pin 11 appears to be a Gnd connection.

appreciate your thoughts.

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