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Steeda's S550 Tri-Ax Race Short Throw Shifter is Here!

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David@Steeda

David@Steeda

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juan_tony1

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Guess I'll be waiting on the feedback from the guys who ordered them...hopefully it gets rid of the "notchiness" especially from 1-2
 

ForTehNguyen

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aftermarket shifter will help some, to get rid of even more notchiness change the transmission fluid too. Royal Purple helped a bit along with my MGW
 

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So even with the mgw u still had notchiness
 

tweekdout

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damn david - could not pass up the days of christmas sale. one more thing in my pile at valdosta for install in january. curse you later!
 

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David@Steeda

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damn david - could not pass up the days of christmas sale. one more thing in my pile at valdosta for install in january. curse you later!

Haha I see the order came through! Congrats bud! Brace yourself for a huge improvement in shifting!
 

ptoemmes

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Dave,

As you may or may not know (Hmmm...I guess that's the only two choices :doh:), I am working with Rod to resolve a buzz/vibration involving the reverse lockout mechanism on the "three part" Steeda Tri-Ax setup on my 2016 Mustang vert.

Steeda Pompano installed it.

Engineering told him it is a sloppy spec problem with Ford (not surprised) - I gather with the shifter arm but dunno - and was told they are making a slightly modified shifter arm - I think - to deal with the buzz/vibration.

Other than that the improvement over stock is very noticeable and frankly more than enough for the type of driving I will be doing.

However, I could opt to just have the race shifter installed I suppose and work out the dollars.

So...a couple of things:

1) Could you describe the differences one might expect with the Race Shifter versus the "three part" Tri-Ax setup?

2) With the Race Shifter what is the recommendation for also having the transmission bracket bushing (which I have)? Pros - cons. With the dynamat you clearly expect - and are dealing with - increased and expected vibration (just like the MGW).

Thanks,

Pete
 

Obsol3te

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Ouf... Well now.
I loved my old Tri-Ax in my fox. Definitely going to be a toss up between you and the MGW.
Really not quite sure I want the chassis mount, but I am a fan of keeping the stock reverse pull-up collar. Yours would also be a bit cheaper as well.
This'll be my next mod, so I have time to think before I can dish out the funds
 
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So...a couple of things:

1) Could you describe the differences one might expect with the Race Shifter versus the "three part" Tri-Ax setup?

2) With the Race Shifter what is the recommendation for also having the transmission bracket bushing (which I have)? Pros - cons. With the dynamat you clearly expect - and are dealing with - increased and expected vibration (just like the MGW).

Thanks,

Pete
Hi Pete,

You're going to feel an overall more positive shifting experience with the Tri-Ax race shifter as opposed to the three part setup you have now. The reduction is also 30% with the new shifter as opposed to the 15% you're experiencing now.

It is actually mandatory to use our shifter base bushing bracket with our new Tri-Ax race shifter, so if you already have it, I can just make a note to exclude it from the box and cut back a bit of the price. With the dynamat in place, we experienced shifting that was actually quieter than the stock shifter.
 
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David@Steeda

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Ouf... Well now.
I loved my old Tri-Ax in my fox. Definitely going to be a toss up between you and the MGW.
Really not quite sure I want the chassis mount, but I am a fan of keeping the stock reverse pull-up collar. Yours would also be a bit cheaper as well.
This'll be my next mod, so I have time to think before I can dish out the funds
Well if you've already experienced the Tri-Ax in your fox, you know how amazing of a shifting experience it provides :)

A lot of our customers love the fact they get to keep the factory reverse lock-out!
 

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Thanks David.

OK. Go ahead and do what is needed to notate my account and/or order the shifter. Rod knows me (Pete Toemmes).

I suppose you can cancel the special short arm engineering is doing to deal with the buzz/rattle/vibration.

Wife won't let the car out of her sight until she goes back to school Jan 4th so later that week or even week after for install. Mon-Tue 1/4-5 are out.

If payment is needed ahead of time let me know and I'll call it in.

Pete

PS
Install-time decision, but the centering springs: compare the "force" of each of the two springs to the three-part Steeda setup. If "lighter" springs are as firm or slightly firmer that's probably what I'll have installed.


Hi Pete,

You're going to feel an overall more positive shifting experience with the Tri-Ax race shifter as opposed to the three part setup you have now. The reduction is also 30% with the new shifter as opposed to the 15% you're experiencing now.

It is actually mandatory to use our shifter base bushing bracket with our new Tri-Ax race shifter, so if you already have it, I can just make a note to exclude it from the box and cut back a bit of the price. With the dynamat in place, we experienced shifting that was actually quieter than the stock shifter.
 
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David@Steeda

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David@Steeda

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Thanks David.

OK. Go ahead and do what is needed to notate my account and/or order the shifter. Rod knows me (Pete Toemmes).

I suppose you can cancel the special short arm engineering is doing to deal with the buzz/rattle/vibration.

Wife won't let the car out of her sight until she goes back to school Jan 4th so later that week or even week after for install. Mon-Tue 1/4-5 are out.

If payment is needed ahead of time let me know and I'll call it in.

Pete

PS
Install-time decision, but the centering springs: compare the "force" of each of the two springs to the three-part Steeda setup. If "lighter" springs are as firm or slightly firmer that's probably what I'll have installed.
Sounds good, Pete - I just let Rod know! :cheers:
 

tweekdout

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David - would the billet pull up collar released by MGW work on the Tri-Ax (or does Steeda have something similar in the works)?
 

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David, As you know I currently am running the Barton and I did the installation myself.

So with that said. It looks like the section of factory linkage that some have asked about is the exact same as what Barton re-uses as well.

I had some questions /notes: In your instructions Figure 26 it looks like the Dynamat is used in place of the factory rubber boot? I think this is to allow for the best way to reduce NVH? Typically that rubber boot sandwiches between the bottom and top of the shifter tunnel, to keep out some noise, dust, etc. I do see in Figure 27 that the boot is placed back on the shifter. I would assume this just kind of sits there now?

I will confirm once my shifter arrives but to me your shifter looks to be a little thinner height wise than the Barton, and your base only uses 4 bolts where theirs uses 6 or 8. This could account for some of the weight shed in your shifter vs. the competition Again I will confirm my speculation once the Tri-Ax is here and I am doing the swap.

Regards,

Danny
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