Steeda Stainless Braided Brake Lines - Install Issues

[jacknifetoaswan]

This post is specific to the non-Magneride version of these lines (555-6027), but given that the work instructions provided on the Steeda website also list the Magneride version (555-6042), I'll make an assumption that these comments pertain to that version as well.

I recently installed these lines while I was also installing the Power Stop Z26 Street Warrior pads and rotors, as well as conducting a full brake flush with ATE Typ 200 brake fluid. I had read through the instructions a dozen times, watched as many videos as I could find, and thought I was well prepared. Unfortunately, the instructions are very sparse, though to their credit, Steeda lists these as "Tech Recommended".

First, the lines are very, very well made and look great. The blue Teflon coating was what ultimately won me over other, slightly cheaper lines, but Steeda's quality and reputation also had a large factor. I've got a ton of Steeda IRS parts in my car, and have been very impressed with their work instructions and install videos in the past.

Unfortunately, there is no install video, either from Steeda or Bill at CJ Pony Parts, for the S550 lines. The only good video I could find for this install from Steeda or anyone else was for the S650, and while the process is basically the same, there are differences. Notably, the rear Brembos on the S650 have different line ends. Regardless, what is mentioned in the install video isn't exactly the same for the S550.

What's included in the S550 kit: 2x front lines, 2x front brackets, 2x C-clips, 4x banjo bolts, 8x copper crush washers.
What's included in the S650 kit: All of the above, plus additional brackets and new rear clips for the hard line bracket.

Why that matters? The instructions for the S550 don't tell you to use the included C-clips for the front hard line brackets and re-use the factory square clips for the rear hard line brackets. The S650 video makes no mention of using the C-clips for the front hard line brackets. Minor issue, but important if you don't want the lines bouncing around inside the bracket.

The instructions do mention that you should chase the rear hard line threads with a 10x1.50 nut before installation. It may just be my opinion, but for $250, Steeda should include a nut with the kit.

The lines definitely seem short, and I wouldn't have minded another inch or two of length for routing purposes and to feel a little more comfortable at full droop. When I installed the rear lines, they naturally fell over the bracket towards the outside of the car, rather than towards the rear. Others have mentioned that these lines rubbed on the rear tires, and I'll get to that later.

Step 6 of the work instructions tell you to tighten the banjo bolts and hard line end fittings to "Min12(ft-lbs)Nm - Max 15(ft-lbs)Nm." Well, which is it? 12 ft-lbs is 16 Nm and 15 ft-lb is 20 Nm. This might sound like a small issue, but I'm an engineer, and precision matters. Also, the S650 video makes note to mention that you do NOT tighten to factory specs, rather, just until the leaks stop. I wish we could do better than that.

It would be helpful if Steeda would include extra crush washers, just in case. They're probably a pretty negligible cost, and would save someone from having to make a run to the store while they've got brake fluid dripping and are worried about getting a big air bubble in their brake lines.

As to the rubbing, after I got everything installed and flushed my brakes, I took the car for about a five mile drive. At slow speeds, I could hear a rubbing sound. Sure enough, the lines were rubbing the inside edge of my rear tires. I had previously been running a 25 mm bolt on spacer with the 10" Ford Performance PP2 style rear wheels and 275/35/19 rear tires (standard PP1 size). I removed it before going for the test ride, but ended up adding it back in due to the rub. Unfortunately, it wore the pretty blue coating off my rear lines. Purely aesthetic, but annoying.

Finally, the Steeda product page shows "Use Code: BL10". Clicking the link just opens a new tab with the same page and doesn't add a discount code or add the part to your cart. Adding to your cart and then using BL10 as a discount code shows it as invalid. Annoying.

Hope this thread helps someone in the future. A Motive Power Bleeder is a definite must-have, and I'd tell you to have spare crush washers on hand, just in case.

Edit: Meant to tag @tj@steeda to see if maybe they can get the install instructions improved.

JR

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[GTP]

...
Hope this thread helps someone in the future. A Motive Power Bleeder is a definite must-have, and I'd tell you to have spare crush washers on hand, just in case.

^^^ Good advice right there.

Not to sidetrack this thread, but I "upgraded" my lines with aftermarket stainless lines. I combined this with a GT350 brakes mod, and new fluid. I struggled a little with the end fittings, crush washers (both new and old), but most of all with the thick 'J' straps that grip the lines.

Even though I track my car, I just don't think this is truly an upgrade over OEM grade.
I would not recommend this mod to anyone. You're just fixing something that ain't broke. Just my 2 cents.

 

[luc]

^^^ Good advice right there.

Not to sidetrack this thread, but I "upgraded" my lines with aftermarket stainless lines. I combined this with a GT350 brakes mod, and new fluid. I struggled a little with the end fittings, crush washers (both new and old), but most of all with the thick 'J' straps that grip the lines.

Even though I track my car, I just don't think this is truly an upgrade over OEM grade.
I would not recommend this mod to anyone. You're just fixing something that ain't broke. Just my 2 cents.

Agree 100%
it’s a solution in search of a problem
On a street car, braided lines are 100% a marketing gimmick

 

[Optimum Performance]

This post is specific to the non-Magneride version of these lines (555-6027), but given that the work instructions provided on the Steeda website also list the Magneride version (555-6042), I'll make an assumption that these comments pertain to that version as well.

I recently installed these lines while I was also installing the Power Stop Z26 Street Warrior pads and rotors, as well as conducting a full brake flush with ATE Typ 200 brake fluid. I had read through the instructions a dozen times, watched as many videos as I could find, and thought I was well prepared. Unfortunately, the instructions are very sparse, though to their credit, Steeda lists these as "Tech Recommended".

First, the lines are very, very well made and look great. The blue Teflon coating was what ultimately won me over other, slightly cheaper lines, but Steeda's quality and reputation also had a large factor. I've got a ton of Steeda IRS parts in my car, and have been very impressed with their work instructions and install videos in the past.

Unfortunately, there is no install video, either from Steeda or Bill at CJ Pony Parts, for the S550 lines. The only good video I could find for this install from Steeda or anyone else was for the S650, and while the process is basically the same, there are differences. Notably, the rear Brembos on the S650 have different line ends. Regardless, what is mentioned in the install video isn't exactly the same for the S550.

What's included in the S550 kit: 2x front lines, 2x front brackets, 2x C-clips, 4x banjo bolts, 8x copper crush washers.
What's included in the S650 kit: All of the above, plus additional brackets and new rear clips for the hard line bracket.

Why that matters? The instructions for the S550 don't tell you to use the included C-clips for the front hard line brackets and re-use the factory square clips for the rear hard line brackets. The S650 video makes no mention of using the C-clips for the front hard line brackets. Minor issue, but important if you don't want the lines bouncing around inside the bracket.

The instructions do mention that you should chase the rear hard line threads with a 10x1.50 nut before installation. It may just be my opinion, but for $250, Steeda should include a nut with the kit.

The lines definitely seem short, and I wouldn't have minded another inch or two of length for routing purposes and to feel a little more comfortable at full droop. When I installed the rear lines, they naturally fell over the bracket towards the outside of the car, rather than towards the rear. Others have mentioned that these lines rubbed on the rear tires, and I'll get to that later.

Step 6 of the work instructions tell you to tighten the banjo bolts and hard line end fittings to "Min12(ft-lbs)Nm - Max 15(ft-lbs)Nm." Well, which is it? 12 ft-lbs is 16 Nm and 15 ft-lb is 20 Nm. This might sound like a small issue, but I'm an engineer, and precision matters. Also, the S650 video makes note to mention that you do NOT tighten to factory specs, rather, just until the leaks stop. I wish we could do better than that.

It would be helpful if Steeda would include extra crush washers, just in case. They're probably a pretty negligible cost, and would save someone from having to make a run to the store while they've got brake fluid dripping and are worried about getting a big air bubble in their brake lines.

As to the rubbing, after I got everything installed and flushed my brakes, I took the car for about a five mile drive. At slow speeds, I could hear a rubbing sound. Sure enough, the lines were rubbing the inside edge of my rear tires. I had previously been running a 25 mm bolt on spacer with the 10" Ford Performance PP2 style rear wheels and 275/35/19 rear tires (standard PP1 size). I removed it before going for the test ride, but ended up adding it back in due to the rub. Unfortunately, it wore the pretty blue coating off my rear lines. Purely aesthetic, but annoying.

Finally, the Steeda product page shows "Use Code: BL10". Clicking the link just opens a new tab with the same page and doesn't add a discount code or add the part to your cart. Adding to your cart and then using BL10 as a discount code shows it as invalid. Annoying.

Hope this thread helps someone in the future. A Motive Power Bleeder is a definite must-have, and I'd tell you to have spare crush washers on hand, just in case.

Edit: Meant to tag @tj@steeda to see if maybe they can get the install instructions improved.

JR

You want to check them at ride height. The rear lines slide in the sway bar bracket. You can adjust the fit to clear any tire using this method. "Tech Recommended" meaning check your work. This goes to any brake line install, regardless of who manufactured it.

 

[tj@steeda]

This post is specific to the non-Magneride version of these lines (555-6027), but given that the work instructions provided on the Steeda website also list the Magneride version (555-6042), I'll make an assumption that these comments pertain to that version as well.

I recently installed these lines while I was also installing the Power Stop Z26 Street Warrior pads and rotors, as well as conducting a full brake flush with ATE Typ 200 brake fluid. I had read through the instructions a dozen times, watched as many videos as I could find, and thought I was well prepared. Unfortunately, the instructions are very sparse, though to their credit, Steeda lists these as "Tech Recommended".

First, the lines are very, very well made and look great. The blue Teflon coating was what ultimately won me over other, slightly cheaper lines, but Steeda's quality and reputation also had a large factor. I've got a ton of Steeda IRS parts in my car, and have been very impressed with their work instructions and install videos in the past.

Unfortunately, there is no install video, either from Steeda or Bill at CJ Pony Parts, for the S550 lines. The only good video I could find for this install from Steeda or anyone else was for the S650, and while the process is basically the same, there are differences. Notably, the rear Brembos on the S650 have different line ends. Regardless, what is mentioned in the install video isn't exactly the same for the S550.

What's included in the S550 kit: 2x front lines, 2x front brackets, 2x C-clips, 4x banjo bolts, 8x copper crush washers.
What's included in the S650 kit: All of the above, plus additional brackets and new rear clips for the hard line bracket.

Why that matters? The instructions for the S550 don't tell you to use the included C-clips for the front hard line brackets and re-use the factory square clips for the rear hard line brackets. The S650 video makes no mention of using the C-clips for the front hard line brackets. Minor issue, but important if you don't want the lines bouncing around inside the bracket.

The instructions do mention that you should chase the rear hard line threads with a 10x1.50 nut before installation. It may just be my opinion, but for $250, Steeda should include a nut with the kit.

The lines definitely seem short, and I wouldn't have minded another inch or two of length for routing purposes and to feel a little more comfortable at full droop. When I installed the rear lines, they naturally fell over the bracket towards the outside of the car, rather than towards the rear. Others have mentioned that these lines rubbed on the rear tires, and I'll get to that later.

Step 6 of the work instructions tell you to tighten the banjo bolts and hard line end fittings to "Min12(ft-lbs)Nm - Max 15(ft-lbs)Nm." Well, which is it? 12 ft-lbs is 16 Nm and 15 ft-lb is 20 Nm. This might sound like a small issue, but I'm an engineer, and precision matters. Also, the S650 video makes note to mention that you do NOT tighten to factory specs, rather, just until the leaks stop. I wish we could do better than that.

It would be helpful if Steeda would include extra crush washers, just in case. They're probably a pretty negligible cost, and would save someone from having to make a run to the store while they've got brake fluid dripping and are worried about getting a big air bubble in their brake lines.

As to the rubbing, after I got everything installed and flushed my brakes, I took the car for about a five mile drive. At slow speeds, I could hear a rubbing sound. Sure enough, the lines were rubbing the inside edge of my rear tires. I had previously been running a 25 mm bolt on spacer with the 10" Ford Performance PP2 style rear wheels and 275/35/19 rear tires (standard PP1 size). I removed it before going for the test ride, but ended up adding it back in due to the rub. Unfortunately, it wore the pretty blue coating off my rear lines. Purely aesthetic, but annoying.

Finally, the Steeda product page shows "Use Code: BL10". Clicking the link just opens a new tab with the same page and doesn't add a discount code or add the part to your cart. Adding to your cart and then using BL10 as a discount code shows it as invalid. Annoying.

Hope this thread helps someone in the future. A Motive Power Bleeder is a definite must-have, and I'd tell you to have spare crush washers on hand, just in case.

Edit: Meant to tag @tj@steeda to see if maybe they can get the install instructions improved.

JR

I will definitely pass this along to our team - I appreciate the feedback & insight.

Best,

TJ

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