Sound Dampening Door Panels?

[Condor1970]

I'm getting ready to pull the door panels off for some new Pioneer speakers. I've heard it's a good idea to line the inside of the door panel behind the vapor barrier, but not sure if it's a good idea. I've been using regular Uxcell 5mm foam with good results in the rear seat panels, and wanted to know...

...Has anyone here sound dampened their door panels? Did you do the inside panel behind the moisture barrier? What were your results?

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[SpArKy]

I'm getting ready to pull the door panels off for some new Pioneer speakers. I've heard it's a good idea to line the inside of the door panel behind the vapor barrier, but not sure if it's a good idea. I've been using regular Uxcell 5mm foam with good results in the rear seat panels, and wanted to know...

...Has anyone here sound dampened their door panels? Did you do the inside panel behind the moisture barrier? What were your results?

yes it makes a huge difference. but you don't want to be using foam, you want the butyl based stuff that you apply with a roller. I don't have any scientific data, but i've used both expensive stuff in the past and cheaper stuff more recently and not noticed any difference. i can't comment on longevity on the cheaper stuff though, nor the expensive for that matter.

I have done the outer and inner door on the passenger side, and just the outer door on the driver side. You want to cover any large flat surfaces. If you have the time / budget then no harm in going overboard and covering as much as you can, only downside is the additional weight. the difference in vibration between the two doors is noticeable at high volume / heavy bass so I'd recommend doing it all. I simply haven't had the time to finish it off. it doesn't take long though just had other things to do and I only notice it on really really heavy bass tracks at high volume. I am pumping 200W RMS through each Morel elate 6.5" driver though.

 

[FreedomPenguin]

Just bought 1 yard of raam audio ensolite, I did my whole other car with dynomat + enoslite and it made it like a coffin for sound, but I have an annoying squeak on the driver door so made me order some. Pulling off the door panel, throwing a little bit of dampening material then full skin of ensolite, whether or not makes a difference is to be seen, but I have extra dynomat and the ensolite is cheap, 30 bucks for it.

 

[NotMarc]

I would be careful with what you use in the doors, as I have read they can let in quite a bit of moisture. I'd think foam could be an issue, but I'm not 100% sure.

yes it makes a huge difference. but you don't want to be using foam, you want the butyl based stuff that you apply with a roller. I don't have any scientific data, but i've used both expensive stuff in the past and cheaper stuff more recently and not noticed any difference. i can't comment on longevity on the cheaper stuff though, nor the expensive for that matter.

I have done the outer and inner door on the passenger side, and just the outer door on the driver side. You want to cover any large flat surfaces. If you have the time / budget then no harm in going overboard and covering as much as you can, only downside is the additional weight. the difference in vibration between the two doors is noticeable at high volume / heavy bass so I'd recommend doing it all. I simply haven't had the time to finish it off. it doesn't take long though just had other things to do and I only notice it on really really heavy bass tracks at high volume. I am pumping 200W RMS through each Morel elate 6.5" driver though.

Did you use fast rings when you mounted the drivers in the doors or just the butyl rubber dynamat-style material?

 

[FreedomPenguin]

I have the foam and dynomat on my other car door, 7-8years 160k miles, zero issues. Dunno, I feel safe putting it below the door panel plastic. Dont think it gets too wet there.

 

[Condor1970]

I've pretty much decided that I will probably not bother pulling the moisture barrier and doing the insides (outside sheet metal) of the doors. Mainly because I don't listen to music that loud, where I would need that much to prevent excessive vibration. If anything, I think I'll use the Uxcell 5mm foam I have to line the inner panel where the driver is mounted. Basically just to add a little sound dampening to help out the padding on the plastic door panel.

 

[FreedomPenguin]

I've pretty much decided that I will probably not bother pulling the moisture barrier and doing the insides (outside sheet metal) of the doors. Mainly because I don't listen to music that loud, where I would need that much to prevent excessive vibration. If anything, I think I'll use the Uxcell 5mm foam I have to line the inner panel where the driver is mounted. Basically just to add a little sound dampening to help out the padding on the plastic door panel.

Exactly what I’m doing, I’m not opening the moisture barrier just below the door panel to smoosh between metal and plastic. Remove the haunting rattle

 

[Condor1970]

Although I do wonder if spraying the inside of the door panel behind the speakers with some of this may not help a bit (BoomMat spray). I can probably get the whole inside of the door through the speaker hole alone with this stuff. Or even Flex-Seal. View attachment 381488

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