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So, What's The Consensus On The 10 Speed

Zelek

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If manual transmissions are your ultimate thrill in life ...
Life? No. While driving? Absolutely unless I'm in bumper to bumper traffic which I very rarely am in.
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Norm Peterson

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If it is true that you have not driven an automatic in half a century then I suspect I will not learn a thing from you about the A10.
My AT driving experience - such as it is - is far more recent than my AT ownership experience (rentals that should have been expected and about a year's stint as a dealership shuttle driver that wouldn't).

What you might learn from me won't from the average car buyer's 'just slap it in D and point it down the street' perspective because I don't think I've ever in nearly 55 years driven an AT vehicle with that mentality. Ever. But that leaves a lot of open territory, some of which DickR has filled in for me (which even you may also find useful; just remember that prompting that information didn't spring from inside the A10 community).


Norm
 
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Norm Peterson

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Norm - I'll try to address some of your questions/concerns which may not have been answered yet.
Thanks Dick.

Off the top of my head . . .

#3 - I hope the difference between maintaining speed and slowing down wouldn't end up being too abrupt/binary. XP10's/R10's need very little pedal pressure to slow down.

No, I didn't mention #4 (warming the brakes via throttle), but thanks for bringing the topic up. So far I haven't felt the need to even with moderately serious track pads in street duty (up to and including XP12). But I do try to gently ride the brakes if I should encounter water deep enough to wet the rotors (whether this happens unexpectedly or not is irrelevant), which would still get into any "brakes over throttle" logic that was a hot safety topic a few years ago.

I would not have guessed at #5, so thanks in particular. All my MT's warm up enough to shift easily and smoothly far faster than the engines get anywhere near warmed up. At worst, I might have to double-clutch the first couple of 1-2 shifts on the really colder mornings because the input side of the transmission gets slowed down too quickly when the lube has a consistency more like thinned molasses.


How's the engine compression braking in the various modes with/without paddle usage?


Norm
 
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nastang87xx

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Its amazing how not too long ago (2014/15) the A6 came out and people though it was great. It can hold good horsepower stock, shifts great with tune, powerful, etc...

Now the A10 is out and its dated junk. I love how things get recycled so fast.
I'm sure racers are still going to like it for a while because it is STOUT and mated stall converters has been proven beat up and proven again.

The biggest question on everyone's mind with big boy horsepower is will the 10R80 survive torque multiplication through more gears than has ever been conceived before. The 6R80 has the same amount of gears the 10R80 has under drives.
 

Houston Kid

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I did some driving today as if car was a manual. Using the paddle shifter 100% of the time. Its very similar to a manual except for no clutch pedal and you cannot skip gears like a stick. It shifts quick enough that skipping a gear is not an issue. For example, it will go from 5 to 2 no problem if you click the paddle 3 times depending on speed of course.

After a year of the 6 speed in the Shelby and two days in the 18, I'm still not missing the clutch.

Overall great down shifts, quick up shifts. Fun. Up shifts seem to be a tad quicker than downshifts.
 
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Thanks Dick.

Off the top of my head . . .

#3 - I hope the difference between maintaining speed and slowing down wouldn't end up being too abrupt/binary. XP10's/R10's need very little pedal pressure to slow down.

No, I didn't mention #4 (warming the brakes via throttle), but thanks for bringing the topic up. So far I haven't felt the need to even with moderately serious track pads in street duty (up to and including XP12). But I do try to gently ride the brakes if I should encounter water deep enough to wet the rotors (whether this happens unexpectedly or not is irrelevant), which would still get into any "brakes over throttle" logic that was a hot safety topic a few years ago.

I would not have guessed at #5, so thanks in particular. All my MT's warm up enough to shift easily and smoothly far faster than the engines get anywhere near warmed up. At worst, I might have to double-clutch the first couple of 1-2 shifts on the really colder mornings because the input side of the transmission gets slowed down too quickly when the lube has a consistency more like thinned molasses.


How's the engine compression braking in the various modes with/without paddle usage?


Norm
3) Test drive a PP S550 with the 6 piston Brembos. Mine (15 manual and 18 automatic) are very "responsive" with very light touch (drive through lines, etc.) but are very good feeling in more normal driving and in serious autocross driving. However they were hard to get used to compared to our 97 GT with oem pads and our 2012 GT which was traded for the 15. Going back and forth between the 97 and the 15 now 18 requires paying attention.

5) The "warm up the trans" comment was due to the impression I got a couple of days ago when it seem like 1 - 2 and maybe 2 -3 paddle up shifts in track mode at less than full throttle were slightly less fast than other times. It was nothing like a balky when cold manual. More of a "don't judge the shift speed by cold trans shifting" suggestion. What was interesting was in other modes immediately after the apparent slightly less fast shifting paddle shifting and automatic shifting felt like usual. It is very possible "I" was the problem. ;) I tested again today but waited until trans temp got to about 100F (beginning of the lowest zone on the gauge). It felt normal then.

6) Regarding compression braking. I don't even consider engine braking with an automatic in "automatic" or really with a manual. There is compression braking if you downshift with the paddles (i.e. it isn't freewheeling if that is your concern). Of course if you are in 10th gear at 2000 rpm (about 70 mph) you probably need to drop at least 2 gears to notice any braking. ;)

Regarding jerkiness with downshifts in the various modes that is too subjective and too situation and mode dependent to give a solid opinion. My impression is that in track mode it really needs to be "on a track being driven hard" for everything to feel "right" with either automatic or paddle shifting. As many of us have said for normal street driving just put it in D and "normal" drive mode. If you want a little "boy racer feel and sound" then work your way through the various drive mode and shifting choices to find what you prefer. ;)

Note that I left foot brake an automatic on the street and right foot brake for autocross and other "serious" braking.
 

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@Norm... Where did that chart come from? I have an A10 with 355 gears and my rpm is lower than your chart. For instance at 70 mph my rpm is only 1900 in 10th gear.
 

gmupatriot

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@Norm... Where did that chart come from? I have an A10 with 355 gears and my rpm is lower than your chart. For instance at 70 mph my rpm is only 1900 in 10th gear.
I am there with you. The chart seems off.
 

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FYI the bolded portion is not in the latest version of the manual. Also from my experience the new version of the manual without the bolded portion is correct. That is it doesn't shift. ;)
Where did you get the "latest" version. I quoted a manual dated 11/17 and since I'm still breaking in my car I haven't tried to see if it shifts when the pedal is on the floor in select shift mode. Maybe next week.
 

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I would like to drive the new A10. The A6 in my 2015 was meh...until I had a Circle D 4c 3800 stall installed. It is a bit of a beast now but I miss banging gears as well. Funny how some folks relate standards, auto's or whatever to something like being cool :) I flew jets and props off aircraft carriers for a living, driving a stick shift car or an auto with a converter is fun no doubt but it ain't quite all that!!
 

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Where did you get the "latest" version. I quoted a manual dated 11/17 and since I'm still breaking in my car I haven't tried to see if it shifts when the pedal is on the floor in select shift mode. Maybe next week.
Try the html version of the manual. It "should" have a pop up which says that the html version has the most recent info. The shift if the pedal is floored statement went either very late last year or first thing this year. I got my car on 1/13 and tested a couple of weeks later after reaching 1000 miles. No shift at the limiter in 2nd IF I really had it floored.

http://www.fordservicecontent.com/F...=US&languageCode=EN&VIN=&userMarket=USA&div=f

Note the link may bypass the popup.
 

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That HTML version is dated 8/17. I quoted the pdf version dated 11/17.
If you had your car floored and it did not shift then what did it do? It either has to hit the rev limiter or keep going until it explodes. Either one would be memorable I think.
 

DickR

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That HTML version is dated 8/17. I quoted the pdf version dated 11/17.
If you had your car floored and it did not shift then what did it do? It either has to hit the rev limiter or keep going until it explodes. Either one would be memorable I think.
Even though the html date still says 8/17 the content has been updated several times since then. I know because I have been looking at the content frequently and have noticed changes. (it helps to be retired and have lots of spare time :D )

The engine stayed at the rev limit (i.e. "on the limiter") until I either shifted or slowed. Exactly like my 15 GTPP manual did many times in autocrosses. So far it hasn't blown up.;) Neither did the 15.:)

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That's good to know. Now I don't have to try it myself. My last car with select shift would drop the rpm and the car would fall on it's nose when hitting the rev limiter. I hated that. At least if it holds the rpm at red line I can still shift to the next gear and keep racing if I didn't shift on time.
 

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That's good to know. Now I don't have to try it myself. My last car with select shift would drop the rpm and the car would fall on it's nose when hitting the rev limiter. I hated that. At least if it holds the rpm at red line I can still shift to the next gear and keep racing if I didn't shift on time.
It appears that the 18 sits at the soft limit which only feels like the car "sort of falls on its nose due to loss of acceleration". My 12 auto and my 15 manual did the same thing.

Note that after hitting the soft limit paddle shifts appear to be slightly slower than normal therefore paddle shifting at around 7K would be better.
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