Should I replace the rotors

[Justpassingas]

My 21 GT is a DD with 63k. While doing my winter tire change over today I did a quick brake inspection and the pads are getting thin. All four rotors look fine with no visible wear so I’m thinking just replace the pads only. In the past I’ve always resurfaced/replace the rotors due to a metal on metal condition. I’m not concerned about the cost to replace all four rotors if needed but want to hear what experts think if it’s necessary to replace them.

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[robvas]

I would at least get them turned if you're putting new pads on

 

[CrazyHippie]

I'd just replace the pads. The rotor surface looks good. Turning them may help bed the new pads but rotors aren't necessarily made with enough metal anymore to do that. I'm not sure about stock Mustang rotors. Its something to learn about.

 

[sms2022]

People say to turn them. I’ve just replaced pads multiple times with no issues if the rotors look alright

 

[LethalSteveG]

The surface looks decent for the miles IMO. I normally just do new pads and rotors at the same time but pads are a higher thing to focus on.

if you do decide to get new rotors, I normally recommend SP Performance as they are OEM quality with zinc coating so no rusting. These ones here:

https://www.lethalperformance.com/s...mustang-gt/brakes/brake-rotors/sp-performance

 

[COYOTE_64S25FEF]

Mine were resurfaced around 61k (prior to my ownership).

It would be annoying to have your new pads still be good but then have to replace your rotors at some point midway through your new pad’s life.

Go blanks or slotted only - not drilled, IMHO.

 

[Paddles]

Unless you're financially constrained I would just replace the rotors while you're in there.
At 60k I may even swap the calipers and soft lines and inspect the parking brake.
Maybe overkill but I like knowing I won't need brake work for a while.
You would be just fine to swap pads only, they should bed no sweat.

 

[xcm77]

get yourself a rotor depth gauge and measure them first. The minimum thickness should be stamped on the aluminum hub and it should be 34mm front and 24mm rear (source).

For comparison, here are mine at 73.000km:

 

[sk47]

get yourself a rotor depth gauge and measure them first. The minimum thickness should be stamped on the aluminum hub and it should be 34mm front and 24mm rear (source).

For comparison, here are mine at 73.000km:

Hello; Beat me to it. Measure and only replace/turn if having a problem.

 

[CrazyHippie]

get yourself a rotor depth gauge and measure them first. The minimum thickness should be stamped on the aluminum hub and it should be 34mm front and 24mm rear (source).

For comparison, here are mine at 73.000km:

Those show more wear than the OP's do, and I'd replace them when the pads are ready. Nice example!

 

[S550HPP]

Ford rotors are amazing they don't seem to wear. I would keep them and just bed the new pads in with several 50-0 hard braking (abs activated) per standard break in procedure or that specified by the pad MFG.

I want to get 2 piece rotors when the brakes need changing. Now at 40K miles and they look like will last forever with frequent hard barking I do .8-1.05G.

Just get new Ford pads. Ford rotors are Quality Job #1.

 

[xcm77]

Those show more wear than the OP's do, and I'd replace them when the pads are ready. Nice example!

yep, they'll get replaced when the pads are done.

 

[Justpassingas]

Thanx for replies…I was just curious what others would do or think…I’ll probably just end up
replacing the rotors when the time comes…Brake Performance has some nice kits.

https://brakeperformance.com/brake-rotors/slotted-brake-kits-black-zinc-coating.php

 

[sk47]

Hello; There are reasons to replace rotors. One is if they are warped and causing a shutter/vibration when braking. If the rotors are thick enough they can be turned some to remove some of the surface and true them up.

Another is if they are indeed too thin from excess wear. Does not seem likely with under 70,000 miles. However, the thickness is easy enough to check. Replacing rotors which run true and have good thickness is a waste of money.

Rotors can be damaged. A front wheel came off of my old Ford van at 60 MPH and i wound up rolling on the rotor. I applied the brakes and ground off and inch or so of the rotor. I found the wheel and was able to drive to a safe place. I did replace that rotor.

There are slotted and or drilled aftermarket rotors with lots of performance/cooling improvement claims over stock. Guess it depends on how a person drives or perhaps a persons perception. A friend insisted on having a Porsche Cayman S over a base Cayman. Thing was he does not drive fast nor push a car. He would not ever have taxed a base Cayman. So, I get the desire to have upgraded parts eve if not needed. Especially if money is not an object.

I recently helped replace front rotors on a Ford pickup. We wound up breaking my 1/2 inch drive power handles and adaptors trying to get the 36mm axel nut off. Wound up buying 3/4 inch stuff to get that nut off with the use of a five-foot pipe.

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