Shhhhhh

[brokenblinker]

Not trying to nitpick the story, but if you went into neutral and not a gear, I don't understand how overrev is possible. Neutral does nothing to force speed up the engine.

Sponsored

 

[ARDrummond25]

Make sure everything under that hood is stock, including the oil and air filter. Don't give them any reason to deny the claim if it's under warranty. I hope there is no tune on it either.

It’s not under warranty no matter what.

 

[ARDrummond25]

Not trying to nitpick the story, but if you went into neutral and not a gear, I don't understand how overrev is possible. Neutral does nothing to force speed up the engine.

Perhaps it didn’t overev then, but whatever happened, it caused the cam shaft position retardation code. The other time I got this code it was because I down shifted instead of up shifted (found 2nd instead of 4th). So same circumstances and result so I went with the assumption that it over rev’d again but I wasn’t staring at the tach so I can’t be sure.

 

[brokenblinker]

Perhaps it didn’t overev then, but whatever happened, it caused the cam shaft position retardation code. The other time I got this code it was because I down shifted instead of up shifted (found 2nd instead of 4th). So same circumstances and result so I went with the assumption that it over rev’d again but I wasn’t staring at the tach so I can’t be sure.

Gotcha, that makes sense. 3rd to 2nd definitely could cause overrev.

 

[ARDrummond25]

Gotcha, that makes sense. 3rd to 2nd definitely could cause overrev.

yeah, and to be clear the other time I got that code was many track days ago and the car has been thoroughly shop tested and road driven for thousands of miles and hundreds of laps, so other than perhaps a little extra wear and tear I don’t think the incidents are related.

 

[Tomster]

.

Perhaps it didn’t overev then, but whatever happened, it caused the cam shaft position retardation code. The other time I got this code it was because I down shifted instead of up shifted (found 2nd instead of 4th). So same circumstances and result so I went with the assumption that it over rev’d again but I wasn’t staring at the tach so I can’t be sure.

If I may throw out a little advice, you don't have to find 3rd or 4th. The shifters neutral position would select 3rd if you push up and forth if you pull down.

I know in the heat of the battle things get sideways, but letting the natural position of the shifter do the work for you in selecting gears saves the possibility of inadvertently selecting second when you wanted 4th.

 

[ARDrummond25]

.

If I may throw out a little advice, you don't have to find 3rd or 4th. The shifters neutral position would select 3rd if you push up and forth if you pull down.

I know in the heat of the battle things get sideways, but letting the natural position of the shifter do the work for you in selecting gears saves the possibility of inadvertently selecting second when you wanted 4th.

Yeah my issue was mostly haste and a little bit of not having the recaros (I’m too fat for those) and thus sliding around and trying to help brace myself with my hands. I’ve done hundreds of laps in this car and I’ve only ever done this once, so it’s not exactly a chronic problem. The second instance that happened more recently was totally different cause. I noticed I wasn’t 100% disengaging the clutch when shifting down the straight. My foot was just being lazy (I take no responsibility lol) and I became so focused on disengaging fully I kind of lost my rhythm and (like a bonehead) just banged off of fourth because I had started coming off before I even got it in. Stupid, I know.

 

[JAJ]

Not trying to nitpick the story, but if you went into neutral and not a gear, I don't understand how overrev is possible. Neutral does nothing to force speed up the engine.

I agree with this poster's input. If the engine is on a stock tune, then there are guardrails in the ECU that will keep it from over-revving in neutral. Sounds more like there might have been an incipient problem lurking somewhere in the valve system for quite a while, waiting for high revs to trigger it.

As for the loss of oil pressure, as @honeybadger said, a broken bit from the valve train can take out the oil pump. Only a look inside by the dealer techs will show what really happened.

 

[Blwnsmoke]

Yeah, there’s plenty of oil still left in the car. No evidence of any leak and I checked the oil in the paddock and it read as fine. OBDII reader said the oil had 45% life left too.

I checked the wiring harness and the connectors going to each cylinder and none of them were loose or wiggly.

the car isn’t under warranty anymore anyway (it’s a 2017) so I don’t much care if they know it happened on track.

5yr/60k powertrain warranty... you are older than 5 years old?

 

[ARDrummond25]

I agree with this poster's input. If the engine is on a stock tune, then there are guardrails in the ECU that will keep it from over-revving in neutral. Sounds more like there might have been an incipient problem lurking somewhere in the valve system for quite a while, waiting for high revs to trigger it.

As for the loss of oil pressure, as @honeybadger said, a broken bit from the valve train can take out the oil pump. Only a look inside by the dealer techs will show what really happened.

Okay got it, whether it over rev’d or not is really not the point though. I accept that my assumption that it had was wrong.

I’m much more interested in how to figure out what’s wrong so manually turning over the engine (or not) sounds like my next troubleshooting adventure. I’m not totally clear on what to do if I remove the air box though. Will there be a bolt staring at me that I can attach a socket too and just lean on with a breaker bar?

 

[Tomster]

I agree with this poster's input. If the engine is on a stock tune, then there are guardrails in the ECU that will keep it from over-revving in neutral. Sounds more like there might have been an incipient problem lurking somewhere in the valve system for quite a while, waiting for high revs to trigger it.

As for the loss of oil pressure, as @honeybadger said, a broken bit from the valve train can take out the oil pump. Only a look inside by the dealer techs will show what really happened.

Yes, fuel cutoff will occur unless you are downshifting into a lower gear at too high a speed (moneyshift).

First things first, figure out what's going on and go from there.

 

[ARDrummond25]

5yr/60k powertrain warranty... you are older than 5 years old?

Yes. It’s a 2017 that rolled off the production line 7/22/16 and was sold 8/29/16. So we are 6 months past 5 years.

 

[DaveR.PP2]

I suppose there's a lot of quarterbacks here with all sorts of explanations. So here's another guess.... I suspect your engine is not damaged because you took it out after the whatever downshift, overrev, or maybe not ...Becuse you went into neutral....whatever you did...you got back in the car drove it and then discovered no oil pressure.... look there are so many codes and there are sensors that need resets post errors and at this point no one knows anything really. No oil pressure.... electrical issue you do not have a mechanical gauge... when these motors blow up there's no guesswork. You will know it!

My guess is that the electronics associated with this event is the overriding issue and that mechanical failures may be minimal or even nonexistent.

Enjoy your time spent with the techs. You'll likely be back on the track and with a better shifter if you've learned anything from all this.

Good luck!

 

[Tomster]

I suppose there's a lot of quarterbacks here with all sorts of explanations. So here's another guess.... I suspect your engine is not damaged because you took it out after the whatever downshift, overrev, or maybe not ...Becuse you went into neutral....whatever you did...you got back in the car drove it and then discovered no oil pressure.... look there are so many codes and there are sensors that need resets post errors and at this point no one knows anything really. No oil pressure.... electrical issue you do not have a mechanical gauge... when these motors blow up there's no guesswork. You will know it!

My guess is that the electronics associated with this event is the overriding issue and that mechanical failures may be minimal or even nonexistent.

Enjoy your time spent with the techs. You'll likely be back on the track and with a better shifter if you've learned anything from all this.

Good luck!

And may I add that if you get it all sorted (if the engine is not shot) see what you can do to get an extended warranty. I know its hard after a warranty expires, but if it is still available (possible), I would get one.

 

[Muligan]

Two additional questions -

You said the engine won't turn over (I presume you mean when you hit the starter button). Does that mean there is nothing going on with the starter or is the starter bendix engaging and then it just hits a wall and won't turn the engine? Or, is the starter dead - i.e., no electrical power to it at all?

As for the overheating condition - how's the coolant level?

Sponsored