Sensor failings. You could have one too!

[Redcruzer]

Just passing this on. Over on FB, Tune+ is now empathicly recommending to skip testing for bad sensor and to just go replace it.

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[cstewartj]

Just passing this on. Over on FB, Tune+ is now empathicly recommending to skip testing for bad sensor and to just go replace it.

It's not just them, I think. This is the one mod there seems to be consensus on, LOL.

 

[Dspec_S550]

It's not just them, I think. This is the one mod there seems to be consensus on, LOL.

haha. for real.

 

[ryant601]

Cost to recall is greater than the cost of the expected failures then no recall. Barely any stock motors blow. Ford doesn't give a rhino's ass crack about. Modded motors, think about all of the ecoboost for the past 4 model years, that's a lot of money spend when the likleyhood of a stock motor going is low. It's not just the cost of the part. It's labor, mailing letters, salaries,... I'm sure they would rather eat a few dozen engines than replace 200,000+ of these things.

40 motors x $7000 per motor = $280,000
200,000 sensors x $15 per sensor = $3,000,000

Just guestimates

It's more than just the $$. Ford is all in on the Ecoboost brand...it's worth shelling out some cash to protect it.

 

[emericA243]

- Add "Lowside FP Actual" to your Cobb Gauges. If it doesn't read at all (0-10psi), is stuck on a number and doesn't fluctuate, or reading in the 100+ range during idle and cruising. YOUR SENSOR IS BAD.
- If it seems to read correctly (70-80psi) then set a gauge to HPFP Command and slightly get into boost. If it pegs 100% in low boost situations. YOUR SENSOR IS BAD.
- Add "FRP Actual" and "FRP Desired" To your gauges and slightly get into boost. If your desired goes into the 2000psi+ range and your actual drops to 100-300psi. YOUR SENSOR IS BAD.

These are the FOR SURE ways to test to see if your sensor is bad. Originally it looked like if it read 100psi+ on lowside pressure actual it was bad but I have came across instances where lowside was reading normal but the sensor was still faulty. It is best to do ALL THREE test to confirm your sensor is good, and to look elsewhere if you are having issues. EVEN IF YOU AREN'T HAVING ISSUES IT IS GOOD TO CHECK!

Is there an equivilent of this testing using Forscan??

 

[solodogg]

Is there an equivilent of this testing using Forscan??

Add FLP and FLP_DSD to your monitored gauges, they should both be close in value. If FLP is at 0, your sensor is bad. That’s how I found mine, aside from the code stored for low fuel pressure.

 

[ElAviator72]

Add FLP and FLP_DSD to your monitored gauges, they should both be close in value. If FLP is at 0, your sensor is bad. That’s how I found mine, aside from the code stored for low fuel pressure.

Strange, because from what I've experienced, the failure mode is that the LPFS is (falsely) reporting a high pressure...which causes the engine to run too lean of a mixture in high demand situations. Granted, I don't have any cool diagnostic tools (beyond a Bosch bluetooth OBD II scanner).

 

[DRU842]

I've been monitoring via my Accessport as suggested in the original post and all checks out fine. My Cobb tuning house also confirms all good.

 

[ronemca]

I have described my episodes elsewhere on the forum, but -- J.I.C. it might help my situation -- I changed my LPFS a few days ago.

I also put in brand new properly-gapped NGK plugs, and I've run two bottles of injector cleaner through. ​

Zero improvement from all of these steps.

A new vapor purge valve (actually referred to as a "hose") is enroute, as is a new vapor canister...both having been suggested by a learned and helpful fellow member.

 

[cstewartj]

It's more than just the $$. Ford is all in on the Ecoboost brand...it's worth shelling out some cash to protect it.

Absolutely agree.

 

[acull2000]

I have described my episodes elsewhere on the forum, but -- J.I.C. it might help my situation -- I changed my LPFS a few days ago.

I also put in brand new properly-gapped NGK plugs, and I've run two bottles of injector cleaner through. ​

Zero improvement from all of these steps.

A new vapor purge valve (actually referred to as a "hose") is enroute, as is a new vapor canister...both having been suggested by a learned and helpful fellow member.

Can you link to your episodes? I too am having fuel problems, not solved by new LP fuel pump, replacement LPFP sensor or purge line + solenoid.

 

[Jonahbonah]

I have not read through all the pages of this thread, so forgive me if this has been covered by any chance. Started having an issue that’s happened twice now.
I’m at 20k miles with a 2017 and old sensor, tuned by Adam. This problem is completely random and when I am WOT around 5k rpm in 3rd or 4th gear, the power will cut as if you hit redline. Feels exactly like a fuel cut.
I haven’t looked at any gauges monitoring fuel yet, but no knock or negative correction is happening during this and charge temps are low.
Like I said, it’s completely random, and will happen during one pull but not the next.
Any chance this sensor failing could be my issue? Also haven’t changed the step colder plugs in about 15k miles since I got tuned, if that could be related.

 

[acull2000]

I have not read through all the pages of this thread, so forgive me if this has been covered by any chance. Started having an issue that’s happened twice now.
I’m at 20k miles with a 2017 and old sensor, tuned by Adam. This problem is completely random and when I am WOT around 5k rpm in 3rd or 4th gear, the power will cut as if you hit redline. Feels exactly like a fuel cut.
I haven’t looked at any gauges monitoring fuel yet, but no knock or negative correction is happening during this and charge temps are low.
Like I said, it’s completely random, and will happen during one pull but not the next.
Any chance this sensor failing could be my issue? Also haven’t changed the step colder plugs in about 15k miles since I got tuned, if that could be related.

@Jonahbonah - I would recommend swapping the sensor regardless. It's a cheap and easy swap - if you're not comfortable doing it, ask any mechanically minded friend to help, as it's really not difficult, and a good idea regardless.

In the meantime, if you want to 'diagnose' it:
- use Forscan to look for DTCs in the PCM
- take a log of both low and high fuel pressure, demand and actual, during a third gear pull (2000rpm to rev limiter, unless the issue happens before then, stop). Look for deviation between demand and actual fuel pressure. Post the results if you need help. This could be a fuel system issue (LP pump, HP pump, blocked rail etc).

Can you link to your episodes? I too am having fuel problems, not solved by new LP fuel pump, replacement LPFP sensor or purge line + solenoid.

Thanks @ronemca - think we figured out by PM that my issue is different to yours.

 

[EcoBoostang]

Alright I am replacing my sensor tomorrow...

Symptom:
-Light stumble at idle
-No hesitation upon acceleration
-23-25mpg (combination of hwy and city driving, typically to and from work)
-KAM reset helped, but didn't resolve

Mods:
-Tune+ Plugs
That's it

My sensor is the eBay from a link I found in another thread, it's the CA sensor.

 

[Jonahbonah]

Alright I am replacing my sensor tomorrow...

Symptom:
-Light stumble at idle
-No hesitation upon acceleration
-23-25mpg (combination of hwy and city driving, typically to and from work)
-KAM reset helped, but didn't resolve

Mods:
-Tune+ Plugs
That's it

My sensor is the eBay from a link I found in another thread, it's the CA sensor.

While you’re replacing it I would suggest to check your spark plug gaps. I was having problems of fuel cut at full throttle above 5,000 rpm. Replaced the sensor but also checked my gaps and after 15,000 miles they went from .026 to .042. Fixed the gap and my problem went away but who knows if it was due to the gap or the sensor

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