Rubbing/Vibration when turning left at some speeds

[hamzah596]

Hi everyone, I have a 2017 whipple car with TSP headers and BMR motor brackets. when I make a sharp left turn at 40+ mph i am getting this vibration/ rubbing on the passenger side. it started after I got headers. there is enough clearance between the frame and header (when the car is parked) I keep thinking it is the header hitting the frame but i really cannot pin point it. the wheels look fine and i've been running this size wheels and tires for 4 years no issues. any ideas?

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[japont4]

I’m chasing the same noise. Does yours sound like metal to metal, but as if something that’s rotating is making contact with another metallic piece?

I’ve got some pointers but I’m almost certain it might be the header hitting something. Although it doesn’t quite explain the rotating bit of the sound.

 

[hamzah596]

I’m chasing the same noise. Does yours sound like metal to metal, but as if something that’s rotating is making contact with another metallic piece?

I’ve got some pointers but I’m almost certain it might be the header hitting something. Although it doesn’t quite explain the rotating bit of the sound.

yep exactly that. It goes away when I slow down but it could just be the motor not shifting to the side anymore

 

[japont4]

yep exactly that. It goes away when I slow down but it could just be the motor not shifting to the side anymore

I honestly am starting to think it could be a bad wheel bearing. Because of the grinding noise.

For example, I know I have a tight clearance on the passenger side between the frame and my headers and it never makes a noise when turning left. In other words, I don’t think the motor mounts allow for that much movement of the engine itself to actually hit. And if it hits, it wouldn’t make the grinding noise when turning left.

I recently got a lot of suspension stuff for the front that I’ll be installing so I’m gonna check the wheel bearing later this week while I install the other parts.

 

[hamzah596]

I honestly am starting to think it could be a bad wheel bearing. Because of the grinding noise.

For example, I know I have a tight clearance on the passenger side between the frame and my headers and it never makes a noise when turning left. In other words, I don’t think the motor mounts allow for that much movement of the engine itself to actually hit. And if it hits, it wouldn’t make the grinding noise when turning left.

I recently got a lot of suspension stuff for the front that I’ll be installing so I’m gonna check the wheel bearing later this week while I install the other parts.

That’s true. Mine are far too. I guess I’ll check the wheel bearing!

 

[hamzah596]

I honestly am starting to think it could be a bad wheel bearing. Because of the grinding noise.

For example, I know I have a tight clearance on the passenger side between the frame and my headers and it never makes a noise when turning left. In other words, I don’t think the motor mounts allow for that much movement of the engine itself to actually hit. And if it hits, it wouldn’t make the grinding noise when turning left.

I recently got a lot of suspension stuff for the front that I’ll be installing so I’m gonna check the wheel bearing later this week while I install the other parts.

There are other posts with this issue and they say it’s a bad bearing too.

 

[japont4]

There are other posts with this issue and they say it’s a bad bearing too.

At least it’s only $100 bucks to buy both wheel bearings. And I can’t imagine the install being too bad.

 

[hamzah596]

At least it’s only $100 bucks to buy both wheel bearings. And I can’t imagine the install being too bad.

theyre a 100 a pop. where can i find both for a 100 lol

 

[japont4]

theyre a 100 a pop. where can i find both for a 100 lol

Found them on a random website. Rock Auto has some that will be 100 for both. But I still went ahead and bought OEM ones. $230 total. I don't wanna cheap out on important things like these.

Also, my bearing truly gave out now. Cant take semi hard right turns now without it making excessive noise.

 

[japont4]

Make sure to buy the axle nut and most people recommend also replacing the cap for the axle nut since it can get damaged while taking it off.

I attached the pic for the part number. Hope that helps.

 

[PC_GUARD]

A car with wide tires and relatively aggressive camber, will wear bearings pretty quickly. Not torqueing the lugs to spec will exaggerate the problem, running into holes around town and hitting stuff exaggerate it further.


I bought my car and as soon as i quieted down the exhaust, all i could hear was wheel bearing whine. Took me an hour to knock it out. The worst part of the job is having a torque wrench that will do 254 lbs

 

[hamzah596]

A car with wide tires and relatively aggressive camber, will wear bearings pretty quickly. Not torqueing the lugs to spec will exaggerate the problem, running into holes around town and hitting stuff exaggerate it further.


I bought my car and as soon as i quieted down the exhaust, all i could hear was wheel bearing whine. Took me an hour to knock it out. The worst part of the job is having a torque wrench that will do 254 lbs

Agreed. The car has been lowered for 5 years with 275/20 tires up front. I just replaced the rears with the axles but I am going to do the fronts now

 

[japont4]

A car with wide tires and relatively aggressive camber, will wear bearings pretty quickly. Not torqueing the lugs to spec will exaggerate the problem, running into holes around town and hitting stuff exaggerate it further.


I bought my car and as soon as i quieted down the exhaust, all i could hear was wheel bearing whine. Took me an hour to knock it out. The worst part of the job is having a torque wrench that will do 254 lbs

Yeah, I agree. But 254ft-lbs? what needs to be torqued to that number?
I'm running a square setup 19x10 with 285s all around as well. Just lowering with the stock wheels can really increase the wear on them if you don't re torque all the bushing bolts. There is a thread here that mentions all that.

They said to have the car on the ground or at least holding its own weight, loosening all bushing bolts, letting the bushing clock itself into whatever static position it wants to be depending on your height, then re torque everything. I never did it because it's such a pain in the ass since you have almost 0 space if you don't have a drive on lift.

I finally found a friend with one, so I might do that this time since I'm basically upgrading most of the front suspension arms/links and they come with their own bearings/bushings so..

 

[PC_GUARD]

Yeah, I agree. But 254ft-lbs? what needs to be torqued to that number?
I'm running a square setup 19x10 with 285s all around as well. Just lowering with the stock wheels can really increase the wear on them if you don't re torque all the bushing bolts. There is a thread here that mentions all that.

They said to have the car on the ground or at least holding its own weight, loosening all bushing bolts, letting the bushing clock itself into whatever static position it wants to be depending on your height, then re torque everything. I never did it because it's such a pain in the ass since you have almost 0 space if you don't have a drive on lift.

I finally found a friend with one, so I might do that this time since I'm basically upgrading most of the front suspension arms/links and they come with their own bearings/bushings so..

Axle nut is 254 (IIRC) and lugs are 150 ft lb

Fortunately i have a buddy who had done a bunch of work to his truck and had bought a nice LONG digital tq wrench. Im a 6'2 210 lb guy and I pretty much dropped my weight on it, to get the "click"

 

[hamzah596]

Axle nut is 254 (IIRC) and lugs are 150 ft lb

Fortunately i have a buddy who had done a bunch of work to his truck and had bought a nice LONG digital tq wrench. Im a 6'2 210 lb guy and I pretty much dropped my weight on it, to get the "click"

was someone holding the brake? that hub is going to keep moving

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