Resonator Delete Question

Mustangmatty

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Hello All,
I have purchased a resonator delete for my 20 GT, brand/style doesn’t matter. What I am second guessing is the method of installation. All the brands and styles use clamps on the rear that I have seen. I dunno, kinda seems cheesy to me. I know I could have it welded if I choose. Maybe I am just looking for reassurance that the clamps hold well, no exhaust leaks etc. Anyone have issues after a significant amount of time? Am I getting to old and paranoid lol?

P.S.
Thinking about dropping the whole exhaust out if I’m going to cut it. Have no desire to try and cut it on the ground with car on stands. (if I go that route). Anyone done it this way?

Appreciate your thoughts.





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LOL WUT

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Be leery of the provided clamps if they are aluminum with no reinforced inner sleeve.

I run the steeda H pipe and the provided clamps were less than satisfactory, my exhaust tips would not remain aligned over time. I replaced the provided rear clamps with 2 Ford clamps which have an added inner sleeve and have had zero issues with leaks or durability.
 
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Mustangmatty

Mustangmatty

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Be leery of the provided clamps if they are aluminum with no reinforced inner sleeve.

I run the steeda H pipe and the provided clamps were less than satisfactory, my exhaust tips would not remain aligned over time. I replaced the provided rear clamps with 2 Ford clamps which have an added inner sleeve and have had zero issues with leaks or durability.
Thanks for the info. Kinda sums up some of my fears.
 

CorvZ061

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I did Steeda‘a axle back, which uses the same crappy clamps. The easy fix is to swap the resonator and take it to a shop to get tacked in place. Still using the clamps, to keep it clamped together, but the tacks just prevent it from twisting and causing tip misalignment.
 

EFI

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Don't drop the whole exhaust unless you have a lift and another set of hands.

Trying to remove the whole exhaust and then put it all back up on your back by yourself does not sound fun.

I've done this mod twice (on a 2016 and 2020) and both times have made the cuts with everything in place no issue. And the clamps have not leaked or came off.
 

LOL WUT

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Don't drop the whole exhaust unless you have a lift and another set of hands.

Trying to remove the whole exhaust and then put it all back up on your back by yourself does not sound fun.

I've done this mod twice (on a 2016 and 2020) and both times have made the cuts with everything in place no issue. And the clamps have not leaked or came off.
Agreed, when replacing my resonator, I put the car on wheel cribs, placed Jack stands under the mufflers trying to keep them in place as best as possible and cut/clamped the H-pipe with everything on the vehicle. Only bad part as mentioned were the provided clamps. Easily resolved with better clamps.
 
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Mustangmatty

Mustangmatty

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Appreciate the input guys. Perhaps I’ll just figure out a way to get the car up high enough to get under there and cut it instead of dropping it. Hmmm maybe a new smaller sawzall and quickjacks :thumbsup:.
 

BlackandBlue

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I dropped the whole exhaust by myself no problem. Put the back of the car on jack stands and pulled it right down. Actually since I put dumps in ended up doing it 4 times checking alignment. Pull the rear hangers off and then remove forward hanger bolts. Comes right off. Use a jack to get it back up if you need extra help.

If you have access to a welder tack the joints like said above and you will never have any problem. I have had mixed results out of exhaust clamps when I put torsion on them.Mark across all your cuts with a permanent marker to get alignment really close when putting it back together.
 

gorgin4325

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Be leery of the provided clamps if they are aluminum with no reinforced inner sleeve.

I run the steeda H pipe and the provided clamps were less than satisfactory, my exhaust tips would not remain aligned over time. I replaced the provided rear clamps with 2 Ford clamps which have an added inner sleeve and have had zero issues with leaks or durability.
That's a great idea! Do you happen to have the part number for the OEM clamps? I just ordered a Steeda H-Pipe and will be installing it over the weekend.

Thank you so much.
 

NGOT8R

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I recommend dropping the whole exhaust if you want to get your cuts straight. I bought a ratcheting exhaust cutting tool from Eastwood Tools to aid me in making nice clean cuts. Note: I did use a cutoff wheel to make the first two cuts at the rear of the resonator, after which I used the ratcheting tool. In addition, I bought better/thicker clamps from Amazon.

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LOL WUT

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OF5.0

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My Steeda X-pipe uses the factory clamps at the front, but I had the exhaust shop expand the rear sections of the X-pipe for slip joints. Then I had the shop weld the rear of the X-pipe to the axle back portions of the stock exhaust. No leaks to worry about.
 

NGOT8R

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Whichever way you decide to cut them (on/off the car), Steeda’s measurements for the cuts are spot on. Don’t forge to make sure that the exhaust tips are even out the back. I spent a considerable amount of time aligning mine. I also torqued my rear clamps to 50 ft-lbs and the factory front clamps to 35 ft-lbs. I had read that several people were having trouble with their exhausts sagging or twisting after an h or x pipe install. I’m guessing that happens as a result of not properly torquing the clamps.
 

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