replacement front 6.5 speaker

[Rash]

The tweeter sound allot better. In the photo you can see the capacitor that mounted inline from Powerbass. The factory did not have one. So all the sound when directly to the speaker.

Can you clarify this please? I’m not that knowledgeable on audio - what is the advantage of the capacitor? Also, we’re these truly plug and play or was there soldering/crimping involved?

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[Rocketboy]

Yes, it’s completely plug and play. Comes with any needed screws for installation. And extension harness if you wanted to relocate the speaker. The connectors are the same as your Ford speakers. Please see the photos I posted earlier. The capacitor block the unwanted bass sound from going to the tweeter.

 

[Rash]

...The capacitor block the unwanted bass sound from going to the tweeter.

Ok, thanks. I thought that's what a crossover does.

 

[JackImpact]

Here is the rear. keep in mind you may want to put in some sound insulation. I did the entire trunk and bottom of the speaker shelf. Made a big different.

Looks like you really went all out with that deadener.

 

[Rocketboy]

The sound deadner really helped block unwanted noise. Now working on a custom cover for the bottom side of the speaker shelf. So the trunk will be completely covered.

 

[Jetnoise]

The tweeter sound allot better. In the photo you can see the capacitor that mounted inline from Powerbass. The factory did not have one. So all the sound when directly to the speaker.

The factory tweeters in my car had a cap. 9 speaker no sub.
I installed some infinity tweets. Nice upgrade for little coin.

 

[Rash]

Bought the Powebass components. Will report back after installing. Also gonna polyfill the sub. Hoping for tighter bass and clearer highs.

 

[Rash]

Installing Powerbass tweeters. How can you tell which terminal is +/- ? I don't see it marked on the tweeter and it's not in the manual.

Same question for the 6.5 door speaker.

 

[Rocketboy]

The 6.5 speaker plugs directly in.you cannot reverse it. There is a clip for orientation. For the tweeter the line with the capacitor goes on the positive side of the tweeter. If your still having issues message me and I will look for some photos. A wiring diagrams with the wire colors is a big help. I found it on this site. Just gotta look again.

 

[Rash]

I installed the tweeters with cap on positive. Gonna call Powerbass this week to confirm - easy enough to switch if needed. I was able to install them without completely removing the a-pillar trim. Just pull out main two clips and there’s enough room to do everything.

 

[Rash]

Finally got a chance to listen after the Powerbass tweeter install - definitely improved, clearer highs. Next are the 6.5 door speakers, the RF Punch sub. Will report back after each install.

 

[jlstro3]

I recently got my car out of the garage for the winter and noticed it sounded like my drivers speaker was blown. I scooped up a set of the powerbass speakers. I grabbed the set w/o the separate tweeter. I threw them in both doors, easy as hell install. I fired them up and the passenger one didn't work. Checking the wiring on the back of the speaker it looked like a bad connection coming from the factory plug adapter. I touched it up with a little solder and it works like a charm. They sound much better than the factory speakers. I am using an amp to drive them so they have a great full sound. I do regret not getting the ones w/ the tweeter though, that was a dumb decision. I can hear the clarity difference between what's coming from the door and what is coming from the tweeter. Long term plan is to buy a set w/ the tweeter then throw what i have in the doors in the deck lid. All in all, a good upgrade over stock.

 

[Rash]

Got a chance at extended listen with the Powebass tweeters on my morning commute this morning. They are definitely louder than factory - I had to turn the treble way down compared to where it was with factory tweeters. I'm sure that's because they are 4 ohm and factory is 8. I think it's a good thing because I often had the treble at almost max with the factory tweeters. They ma be a little harsh to my ears right now, but that may be just finding the right treble setting and/or break-in.

 

[SiMuL]

The tweeter sound allot better. In the photo you can see the capacitor that mounted inline from Powerbass. The factory did not have one. So all the sound when directly to the speaker.

I'm only clarifying here for future readers. The OEM tweeters also have caps, you can see them clearly in the photos you've posted. They're are soldered directly to the tweeters. You can see the black cap on the left side in your photos.

Those OEM tweeters would have been blown immediately if they didn't have the capacitor, they would have taken all of the voltage of the signal.

 

[Rash]

OK I think I’ve change my mind about the tweeters. They are now too loud and harsh. I’ve got treble all the way down to zero and on satellite radio it’s still too harsh. On Bluetooth, where I used to have it about 3/4, I now have it about one step above nothing. I have the mids all the way down to zero as well. Anything much higher than zero for treble and mid is just too harsh and the soundstage seems off. I guess since they are lower impedance it’s screwing things up.

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