Removing 2018 Engine Cover?

[Zinc03svt]

Last time I pulled the pancake I lost one of the 10mm bolts and said “F it” it is staying off. Lol.

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[Schooley]

Quick question - would you know if the JLT 3.0 "passenger side" catch can for the 2017 models also fits the MY18? On the JLT site they have different part no.s but in the pictures they look the same.

Cheers,

Jim

They will work - but the bracket on my catch can didn't bolt in place because the 18+ has different provisions off the valve covers than the 15-17. I have to custom make a bracket for mine.

 

[NoVaGT]

Last time I pulled the pancake I lost one of the 10mm bolts and said “F it” it is staying off. Lol.

LOOOOOOL!!!

I lost a socket recently, fell down into the engine bay. I even removed the expansion tank to reach further down to fish around for it.

It's gone. DGAF.

 

[Elvis66]

LOOOOOOL!!!

I lost a socket recently, fell down into the engine bay. I even removed the expansion tank to reach further down to fish around for it.

It's gone. DGAF.

I hope it was not a snap-on socket..

 

[Kleiss1]

 

[Elvis66]

Very nice!

 

[dkdariusz885]

For those of you who have removed the engine cover and afterwards re-installed the engine strut brace, did you all re-torque the 4, 15 mm nuts to 41 lbs ft. torque as per Ford, or did you just do it up tightly?

I recently did the engine cover removal and originally put the 4, 15 mm nuts back on tight, but not super tight, but then read they are meant to be on at 41 lbs ft. of torque so will be using a torque wrench next time I am with the car. Just wanted to see if others did this too? Thanks!

 

[RazzaRossa]

I took it off and added the Bullit covers

 

[Chef jpd]

Modified garbage can lid, Bullitt covers.

20210115_122314 by chefjpd, on Flickr

 

[ice445]

For those of you who have removed the engine cover and afterwards re-installed the engine strut brace, did you all re-torque the 4, 15 mm nuts to 41 lbs ft. torque as per Ford, or did you just do it up tightly?

I recently did the engine cover removal and originally put the 4, 15 mm nuts back on tight, but not super tight, but then read they are meant to be on at 41 lbs ft. of torque so will be using a torque wrench next time I am with the car. Just wanted to see if others did this too? Thanks!

I torque mine to 35 ft/lbs. Mostly because I've heard of many people on here snapping those studs at the 41 ft/lbs value. But it also feels about right on the snug o meter built into my arm. And because they're locknuts in a non critical application. Technically the manual also says you should replace said locknuts every time you remove them, but I don't do that either.

 

[Rapid Red]

I torque them, and painted them black. I'm funny that way.

 

[DougS550]

I took mine off the first week. As mentioned super easy to do. It does look plain jane with it off, but to me still better than with it on. After you take off the cover you can twist the oil filler neck off and the oil cap works without it. That helps cleaning it up a bit. I have a catch can, sound tube delete, and the oil filler neck removed. Looks better to me than with the cover on.

Yep, I feel the same way. But I cut the sides off and the inside runners down on the cover so I don't have to removed the strut bolt nuts everytime I have to remove. Good luck.

 

[FreePenguin]

I’ve done my strut bolts right at 40 lb tq with no issue. I impact it down, not right just 90% the way then I use torque wrench.

 

[dkdariusz885]

I torque mine to 35 ft/lbs. Mostly because I've heard of many people on here snapping those studs at the 41 ft/lbs value. But it also feels about right on the snug o meter built into my arm. And because they're locknuts in a non critical application. Technically the manual also says you should replace said locknuts every time you remove them, but I don't do that either.

That is odd about asking for four new nuts when you install a new strut tower brace. I guess they figure maybe the old nuts have seen many miles and so they give you new ones. I removed mine after less than 50 miles and re-applied them right away. I'm just going to loosen them a bit to torquer them properly to 41 lb ft of torque, so I suppose the original still new nuts should be fine?

 

[Mike Pfeifer]

That is odd about asking for four new nuts when you install a new strut tower brace. I guess they figure maybe the old nuts have seen many miles and so they give you new ones. I removed mine after less than 50 miles and re-applied them right away. I'm just going to loosen them a bit to torquer them properly to 41 lb ft of torque, so I suppose the original still new nuts should be fine?

Technically, because they are locknuts, they should be replaced. This is because the self locking becomes compromised upon removal - it’s unavoidable. Will you have any noticeable deficiency effect from reusing them? Probably not.

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