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[ImBetterDude]

I own a 2015 GT premium trim. Im coming from a Focus ST that I modified heavily but I don't have the time to dive deeply into sound system mods on my new ride, but I miss bass. Badly.

What would you buy with a $1000 budget? Would $2000 get me that much more value IYO?

I don't want to sacrafice all my trunk, a single 10" is just fine.

I'd like to at least replace some door speakers and have an amp power 'em and not just an amp for my sub.

TIA

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[Cathul]

1000,-- is a bit thin if you want to change front and sub.

In addition, is it Premium or base sound system in your 2015?

If premium (will be above the 1000,-- $ mark, but not that much more):

- DSR1 with HRN-AR-FO3 harness (around 300,-- $)
- any 5-channel amp (f.e. Kicker 46CXA660.5T, around 400,-- $)
- Sub: Rockford Fosgate P3SD4-8 (around 170,-- $)
- for fronts with your budget you're limited to a 2-way set. Many to choose from up to 200,--$ f.e. Focal Integration Series, Morel Maximo, Hertz and others...
- some 100,--$ for sound treatment, cables, fuse holder and stuff like that.
- if you let an installer do the work, his labour rate.

If non-premium: wait a bit for

- DSR1 with DFO2 harness (will be available within the next few weeks).
Rest see above.

This gives you a good system that you can tune and run fully active.
If you're on a stretch check the classifieds f.e. on diymobileaudio, craigslist or Ebay for some good deals.
And yes, 2000,-- $ would get you much more value, especially in the amp section and front speakers.

 

[Matti777]

If the budget is tight I'd spend the money installing a sub and amp and leave provisions for adding another amp when you are ready to do a front speaker upgrade. ie power cable sized for 2 amps, speaker wires run to the front , LOC, DSP, etc.
This is what I am doing at the moment. The amp and sub are used (JL 500/1 and JL 10TW3 shallow sub behind the passenger seat) and it is still costing about $600 USD and I'm doing the install. New would be around double.

 

[Elp_jc]

Stupid question, but how about opening a port on the stock box to use the trunk as the enclosure? The sub is isolated at the back, so you need a lot more power than needed than if there was a port, no? We'd probably need a different woofer ('free-air'?) for that application, but the solution doesn't always have to be more power, no? How about opening a port from the enclosure into the car, behind the rear seat?

Woofer frequency is non-directional... as long as it's not blocked. Trunk is not completely sealed, but more than it needs to be in this case, IMO. Let's see what the experts say .

 

[Matti777]

Are you talking about free air subs mounted in the rear deck? I thought about it but it would have been risky as well as more expensive and more complicated to install. There is a thread on this forum about a free air sub install.

 

[Elp_jc]

I meant just the stock enclosure but ported to the trunk. Or ported behind the right rear seat, into the car. Rather than just thru the woofer itself. The stock enclosure is not ported, right? Most sub enclosures I've seen are ported. If the stock one is ported, then never mind. But where is the port? If it's in a dead space, it'd need an additional port. Ha ha.

My understanding is the woofer moves the air forward, and with a port in the enclosure, it also moves the air backwards. Not sure if that makes it louder, more efficient, or both. Not an audio expert by any means. Ha ha. Just trying to figure out cheap ways to improve its sound, without changing anything. Like the Polyfill idea, which I'm still waiting on input if 8 or 12-oz is better .

 

[Matti777]

I think with such a small enclosure it has to be non-ported.

 

[NGOT8R]

I installed a JL 300 mono amp with an AudioControl DQ-61 sound processor on the factory sub in my 2013 GT and it really woke it up. Be careful Not to blow your sub though if you go this route.

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