Rear Rotor Upgrade

[GT_Roadcourse_Newb]

Thinking about these rear rotors for weight reduction. Any thoughts?

http://www.cjponyparts.com/baer-bra...erformance-pack-ecoboost-gt-2015-2016/p/BR92/


Ive gone for weight reduction lately, especially on the points, bought these (and forgestar wheels)

http://www.girodisc.com/Girodisc-Fr...stang-GT-with-Performance-Package_p_6658.html

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[SteveW]

That's actually pretty cool. Was wondering when there would be lightweight rear rotors available and here they are. Thanks for posting!

edit: not super excited about all the holes and slots tho...but it is a start for lighter parts in the marketplace.

 

[boardkat]

i've already got a question into jeff @ essex (apracing distributor) and mike @ carbotech earlier this week to see if they have rear rotor/pad options yet - when we last spoke late last year, they didn't.

also not too enthusiastic about the baer option, but at least i don't need the fronts - hard to turn down ~6lbs of rotational mass reduction in the rear though!

 

[GT_Roadcourse_Newb]

hard to turn down ~6lbs of rotational mass reduction in the rear though!

x2!


I am hoping to enjoy the benefit of about 22 lbs rotational mass reduction x2 in rear and 25 lbs in front x2.

That might feel like 752 pounds lighter if the old guy's tale is true about 1 lb of unsprung rotational mass reduction = 8 lbs of sprung non-rotational weight

 

[boardkat]

FWIW, it appears baer sells these plain, slotted, or drilled/slotted, per lethal:
http://www.lethalperformance.com/baer-2015-2016-mustang-eradispeed-rear-rotor-upgrade.html

 

[SteveW]

i've already got a question into jeff @ essex (apracing distributor) and mike @ carbotech earlier this week to see if they have rear rotor/pad options yet - when we last spoke late last year, they didn't.

also not too enthusiastic about the baer option, but at least i don't need the fronts - hard to turn down ~6lbs of rotational mass reduction in the rear though!

Yeah, no kidding about the weight reduction. I'm happy with the bite of the stock pads and the new fluid I'm running in autocross so, maybe a pad with more bite and these holy rotors might balance out. I'm on just 10" wheels and skinny little 285s ;)

 

[BTM]

..... (and forgestar wheels)

http://www.girodisc.com/Girodisc-Fr...stang-GT-with-Performance-Package_p_6658.html

Oooooh, I like....did you get the CF5? 18in? For weight and tire choice / cost, that seemed the best choice to me.

John, you're instantly leapfrogging ahead of me in the mod competition :hail:

 

[GT_Roadcourse_Newb]

Oooooh, I like....did you get the CF5? 18in? For weight and tire choice / cost, that seemed the best choice to me.

John, you're instantly leapfrogging ahead of me in the mod competition :hail:

Thanks Chris, but the only thing I'm competing with is my Massive Midlife Crisis! :cheers:


I went 19x10 35 offset - x4, hopefully I will not regret 19's over 18's

 

[Impulsed7]

i've already got a question into jeff @ essex (apracing distributor) and mike @ carbotech earlier this week to see if they have rear rotor/pad options yet - when we last spoke late last year, they didn't.

also not too enthusiastic about the baer option, but at least i don't need the fronts - hard to turn down ~6lbs of rotational mass reduction in the rear though!

Carbotech has made rear pad options for this car. I got mine through Anthony@htm. Still waiting on front rotor options for the Eco Performance Pack/base GT front brakes though...

 

[Norm Peterson]

x2!


I am hoping to enjoy the benefit of about 22 lbs rotational mass reduction x2 in rear and 25 lbs in front x2.

That might feel like 752 pounds lighter if the old guy's tale is true about 1 lb of unsprung rotational mass reduction = 8 lbs of sprung non-rotational weight

One to eight might be plausible at the flywheel (where the rotational acceleration is much greater than at the wheel due to axle and transmission gearing), but at the wheels it's less than 1 to 2, possibly below 1:1.5. I've done a few acceleration simulations that include rotational inertia effects . . . and they more or less agree with some wheel weight testing done for SCCA's monthly magazine some years back.


Norm

 

[M3Convert]

If you have a choice, buy the slotted rotors over the drilled. The drilled rotors are a throwback to the old days where off-gassing of ablated brake resin interfered with brake performance. The differential cooling between the holes and the disc area causes cracking, especially in track applications. If you want to look cool, get drilled, if you want performance and better longevity, get the slotted.

 

[NWFreerider]

I ordered the RotorPro slotted and drilled PP rotors for my car and after doing more research, stuck them up for sale without even unboxing them. Going to call Girodisc, who are in Washington a ways north of me, and see if they have a rear rotor to go with their fronts. I really like the weight reduction. The stock rotors are pretty damn heavy.

 

[GT_Roadcourse_Newb]

One to eight might be plausible at the flywheel (where the rotational acceleration is much greater than at the wheel due to axle and transmission gearing), but at the wheels it's less than 1 to 2, possibly below 1:1.5.

Norm

Dreamwrecker.

 

[Optimum Performance]

We carry Girodisc, they should be up on our site by the end of the day and they have a rear disc. There is little concern of disc cracking from drilling S550 PP rotors, they are massively thick. We also carry PowerStop PP rotors which are drilled/slotted OEM pieces if you want to look cool ;) (We ran these during a track day and they didn't break)

 

[M3Convert]

We carry Girodisc, they should be up on our site by the end of the day and they have a rear disc. There is little concern of disc cracking from drilling S550 PP rotors, they are massively thick. We also carry PowerStop PP rotors which are drilled/slotted OEM pieces if you want to look cool ;) (We ran these during a track day and they didn't break)

Just one track day, huh? Hardcore!

They do microcrack under repeated heat cycles, and when the cracks reach the edge of the next hole or rotor, then they have the potential to break due to the reduction in integrity. Whether they do or not, is a different thing, but that's not something I want to noodle on approaching Turn #1 at 130 mph

But the point was, slotted are considered longer lasting rotors than drilled, and given a choice, "I" would opt for slotted.

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