Rear ended - what to expect?

[Leadphalanx]

So this morning I was rear ended on the interstate on the way to work. :( Luckily no injuries and everything went well with exchanging insurance info and such. I hate to clutter the forums asking these questions but I've never gone through this process before.

What should I be keeping an eye out for during the process of the car getting evaluated for the claim/repair quote/etc? Someone mentioned that if repaired, the rear quarterpanel damage would be listed as 'frame damage' on carfax? Is there anything specific required to properly submit a devaluation claim to the at-fault party's insurance (assuming it isn't totalled?)

https://imgur.com/xlOVGuV
https://imgur.com/8IPorCw

https://www.dropbox.com/s/f0no9loxqz9xtyk/20180416_074417.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ip3hecyuq3q0egp/20180416_074433.jpg?dl=0

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[UAmach1]

Have a shop you trust give an estimate.

The quote the insurance guy will give you is ALWAYS lower than the real price as once you start taking things apart more things are always found.

Can you post images? If damage is bad enough, depending on your coverage, you may actually make out if they total the car. In my case I got more than I would have on a trade and I could use that as a nice big down payment on something better/newer.

 

[Leadphalanx]

Have a shop you trust give an estimate.

The quote the insurance guy will give you is ALWAYS lower than the real price as once you start taking things apart more things are always found.

Can you post images? If damage is bad enough, depending on your coverage, you may actually make out if they total the car. In my case I got more than I would have on a trade and I could use that as a nice big down payment on something better/newer.

There should be a couple, are they not working?

 

[jacknifetoaswan]

There should be a couple, are they not working?

No joy for me.

In my experience, NEVER use the shop that your insurance company wants you to use. They'll usually spin it that they have an adjuster on site that can work the case as needed, but I've found that because it's guaranteed work (meaning that the shop is guaranteed to get work from the insurance company), they rarely do a very good job, and it's usually sloppy, at best. If I were you, I'd reach out to local enthusiast groups and ask them for recommendations, then get at least three estimates. Submit whichever you feel the best about, and hope that they authorize the work at that price.

Make sure that they're using OEM parts, and not junkyard or aftermarket parts. In some states, if the vehicle is new enough, they're required to use OEM, but in almost all cases, they'll try to use junkyard or aftermarket to keep cost down. I had a car repaired many years ago, and they used aftermarket bumpers, but didn't even sand the casting flash to be flush with the bumper!

I'd also submit for a diminished value claim. It's going to get reported to Carfax, and you'll be able to sell the car for less. Make sure you're fairly compensated.

Good luck, and make sure you're informed before you make any decisions!

JR

 

[UAmach1]

There should be a couple, are they not working?

If they are imgur they are blocked at my work.

Also a tip for finding a body shop, one that pays their guys buy the hour tends to put out better work than ones that pay their guys per job. Paying per job makes them rush the work to get to the next job. Paying by hour gives them incentive to take their time and do it right.

 

[jacknifetoaswan]

My non-professional opinion of that damage is that it's at least $4-7k. Obviously, I can't see underneath, but they'll probably have to do some pulling of the frame to get things back into alignment, the exhaust has to be repaired/replaced, might be damage to the suspension, and they'll certainly need to replace the trunk floor, trunk lid and tail light panel, both tail lights, left rear quarterpanel, bumper cover, bumper support, etc.

I doubt it'll be totaled, but that's a good amount of damage. I had less than that on my 2006 GT a couple years ago, and it ended up being damn near $4k.

JR

 

[TaraFirma]

Get deminished value also. You should be able to get a few hundred bucks for it. Your car WILL be worth less if the repairs show up on a car fax.

 

[UAmach1]

My non-professional opinion of that damage is that it's at least $4-7k. Obviously, I can't see underneath, but they'll probably have to do some pulling of the frame to get things back into alignment, the exhaust has to be repaired/replaced, might be damage to the suspension, and they'll certainly need to replace the trunk floor, trunk lid and tail light panel, both tail lights, left rear quarterpanel, bumper cover, bumper support, etc.

I doubt it'll be totaled, but that's a good amount of damage. I had less than that on my 2006 GT a couple years ago, and it ended up being damn near $4k.

JR

Depend son on how hard/angle he was hit, my black Mach1 didnt look bad from the outside but the sub-frame had kinked under the passenger seat from the angle of the impact. The body shop said they could fix it but want sure how safe it would be in another accident. The Insurance ended up totaling it out due to that.

 

[EJS2016]

Obtain quotes from a few different shops and demand OEM replacement parts.

Because of the need to satisfy a more sophisticated customer who has high expectations and pride in the appearance of their vehicle, find a shop that specializes in high-end luxury cars and exotics. The repair/bodyprep/paintwork and fit/finish is typically superior to the average national franchise type “collision center”.

Unless you can verify a truly high-quality repair job with your own eyes, avoid dealer body shops.

No offense to any dealership body shop technicians.

 

[RLMJR58]

Always be careful on the no injury comment. Glad to hear that there seems to be nothing wrong at this time but some times after a day or so things can creep up. I got rear ended in a 2000 Camaro SS me at a stop and the guy that hit me was around 55 according to the highway patrol. I had a bit of a stiff shoulder and was the first one out of my car (4 cars involved in chain reaction) hit me I hit a Ford Ranger who hit another... then I was rear ended in a Jeep Cherokee at maybe 15 - 20. Felt no I’ll effect. Went homeafter work, ate, sat in the recliner and when I got up to go to bed felt like a hot poker in the neck... whip lash. Still have some I’ll effects from that. Didn’t claim against the guy who hit me so not trying to chase the ambulance but...

 

[Cobra Jet]

1) You should be able to use ANY body shop you desire to use, you’re NOT bound to using the recommended shop of your OR the other party’s Ins. company.

2) Based on your pics, that looks like a decent hit. It’s hard to say if there is unibody frame damage or not. Definitely need a new rear 1/4, probably trunk pan, rear bumper panel, all associated parts to rear bumper cover, rear bumper cover, exhaust appears bent, trunk lid, rear taillight and who knows what else that is not visible.

Very hard to say if that would need to go on a unibody frame rack or not.

Parts alone, labor, plus prep and paint add up quick, that’s at least a good $8k-$9k in damages (from what can be seen). If there is frame damage to driver side or to the IRS components, or suspension on that side, you’re pushing past $10k easily.

A total loss is if the damages to repair exceeds ACV (actual cash value, which is based on Black Book values, NOT “Kelley Blue Book”, Edmunds, NADA, etc). So if the damages are within 74% of ACV, most of the time the Ins. Co. will total it out.

 

[Cardude99]

Everyone on here I am betting just has one bad experience and all the sudden they are experts. I am an adjuster and deal with this every day. You don't have to trust me, but I'm just giving you my expert opinion. I don't know you and have no incentive to lie.

No estimate is perfect period. I don't care who writes it, everyone will be different that's why it is called an estimate.

Hidden damage is always covered by the insurance company as long as it is caused by the accident and 99% of the time it is. Only exception is a prior bad repair in the spot that was hit.

Use the insurance companies shop, if you don't like the first one ask for another. They may not all be winners but most do great work. They are held to very high standards. They get paid to do good work, if they do bad work they piss off customers, when that happens management gets pissed and over reacts.

Contrary to poplar opinion. Contracted Shops want to do quality work and not have the customer come back. Upset customer then shop gets in trouble. Double work shop doesn't get paid for the extra work. Mess up enough and get kicked off the program. So in turn they are incentivsed to do a good job with quality work the first time.

The guarentees from the insurance carrier do matter. They protect you if a part fails or the paint goes bad down the road etc... If you use a shop of your choice you better hope that they stand by their work. I have seen so many horror stories where they don't and the customer eats the cost of getting it fixed correctly. Insurance shops do not cut corners, shops out of network might and you will have no help.

Regarding diminished value. Once repaired ask for it. If the offer is not fair or they deny it. Hire an independent appraiser to give you a diminished value report, show to your adjuster and give them one more chance to pay the div. Keep in mind the appraiser will charge between $300 and $400 and you will not be reimbursed. If the carrier still is not fair your last option is a small claims lawsuit. Trust me the litigation department doesn't want to deal with small fish claims they will make a fair offer to get rid of you.

Finally oem and aftermarket doesn't matter you will never know the difference. It will look and act identical. The insurance Co will not put on something that will look, act, perform, or be less safe than the oem part. Only different is one says Ford and the other says some other name.

I hope this helps. Idk if you will want my advice but I hope this sheds some light on insurance companies and the repair process. I am not saying they are perfect and I agree they have many flaws. Many adjusters will do what they can to help you just be kind and you will get an advocate. Be a dick and see how little they will care. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

[NHEcoboost]

This was $13K in damage and it looks to be less damage than your car. I chose a shop based on advice and not on what my insurance company recommended. They had the car for 3 months due to having a hard time getting parts. But they did a great job, imo.

 

[obgod3]

I have to say I disagree with folks saying not to use a insurance company' shop, you'll know if they are good or not just by talking to them and most recommended shops are going to want to do an excellent job to keep the business rolling in. Im a USAA member and will always use a USAA shop, much easier and the work is guaranteed.

Short story; buddy of mine, Mercedes, Usaa, decides to use his own shop, car has been there since November, found out they couldn't get parts for the car, are not authorized by Mercedes to fix the car and cant get parts, USAA already paid them tons of money and now it going to cost my buddy to move it to a shop that can fix it. Moral of the story, shouldve taken it to a USAA shop.

 

[NHEcoboost]

Avoid the shops that pay their guys by volume....the more cars they roll in and out, the more money in their pockets. I went with a very small, 2 person operation based on what I heard about their work. I knew it would take longer, but it was fall and the car would be going to storage anyway. They would have me come by periodically to look at the progress and were simply great guys who love cars. I'm not sure I would have had the same experience with a larger, insurance company-approved body shop.

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