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huntiez

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question for all you guys got a 17 about to do the opg and cg lund reccomdend head studs arp
since the covers are off why not right also whats are ppl doing about valve springs i ask cause whelp
why its off why not right to fill everyone in going boost so trying to make it 100 safe on the block take out
any problem factors i might have just gonna be sitting at low boost at first but if i want to turn it up and already
got it all torn down what else would you guys throw at it
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whatsup62

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Well if you decide to turn it up then valve springs would be the least of your problem. Seems like the most engine failures are happening do to the tight ring gap from the factory causing ring lands to crack. Have seen people going with a forged short block but have not seen much on head mods.
 
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huntiez

huntiez

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good to know thank you so should be safe with studs and opg and cr till i turn it up
 

ahl395

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I can't remember who, but someone stretched a stock head bolt at 15psi, so it depends on your boost level you plan on making, and your luck lol. If you plan on staying at low/moderate boost I wouldn't worry about them.

Correct me if im wrong but I thought the block had to be pulled out completely to do head studs?
 

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beefcake

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we typcially do the comp, hit me with any questions or if we can help at all
 
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huntiez

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got the opg and cg from you guys beef but yeah staying low boost so might not bother with headboltds
 

tsloms

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Running a Whipple at 17psi I was sleeping coolant from the back of the heads. I installed arp studs and made it to 18.5psi before melting a piston. If I pure going above 17psi just get a built engine at the ready.
 
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huntiez

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Na was thinking 11 or 12 psi at most
 

BoostedBen

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You'll be good to go on 11/12 psi. Just don't beat the sh*t out of it taking it to 8k+ rpms every 30 seconds, even as temping as it is... lol
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