Question about sleeving a Gen3 block

[HKusp]

So I have cylinder wall damage on my Gen3 block and because of the plasma lining, you can't hone them the only fix is a brand new block or to have this one sleeved. My intention is for this car to be a daily driven vehicle for the most part, somewhere in the 12K-15Kmile/year range. It currently has a fuel system and a GEN 5 Whipple, so somewhere in the 700+ WHP range on 93. Is sleeving the block and basically dailying it compatible or am I just going to have to go with another new block?

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[WItoTX]

I went with a new block because I wanted the Gen III. My old block had some scratches, but I was assured they could all be fixed without sleeves. From multiple companies.

There's nothing wrong with going sleeved, and it's the preferred method. Regardless, sleeved is going to be basically the same price, if not more, as a new block.

 

[robvas]

Sleeves aren't recommended until ~ 1k rwhp, aren't they? Stock shortblock should be fine for that use

 

[Timbuck]

That’s 100% the reason I darton sleeved my block when I decided to part company with cylinder 3.
I have mine apart again ATM due to oil burning problem. ( which we have found). It was cheaper for me being in australia to sleeve the block than to buy a new one. I daily drive and now done 20,000kms on this engine and bores look like they where plateau honed yesterday. ductile iron is incredibly hard and will out last your pistons many times over. One caveat is due to there thickness they take heat more heat locally before transferring it to the aluminium block. Which is a good thing will loose fitting 2618 pistons the heat stays in the the sleeve help piston get to temp quicker rather than going straight the through plasma bore into the aluminium . So engine block heat up times are a little longer and same with cool down times. I saw picture of a blown up sleeved Honda a few days ago and the piston was in a million pieces and the bore didn’t have a mark haha. The reality other than slight heat transfer difference it doesn’t know it’s got sleeves and everything is the same , just better in every way. Your 2618 pistons will need replacing long before darton sleeves will.
you want high tension ring set to make sure you don’t burn oil… ask me how I know maybe that another thread once I fix it.

so sleeve away brother it will be totally fine.

 

[HKusp]

Sleeves aren't recommended until ~ 1k rwhp, aren't they? Stock shortblock should be fine for that use

Yeah I was pretty sure it was 1000+whp where they are recommended, which is why I was wondering if it was do-able to use as an every day driver, or was it really more for track duty only. I am already regretting the fact that I went with 2618 pistons because they have a tendency to not last nearly as long as hypereutectic and some other alloys. I don't want to sleeve this thing (which I am already leaning away from just from a cost standpoint) and find out it won't work for my intended use. I DO plan on going a little more horsepower once I get the damn thing right. I have a 3.5 inch pulley and that combined with going E, it SHOULD be capable of 900-930ish whp I believe. Getting close to that 1000.

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