DeLorean17
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The PP also has a Torsen diff, not just 3.73 gears
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Question about pp option vs base
- Thread starter Carfanatic
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crs2879
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I have PP & Roush blower, 3:73 gears have not been an issue for me. The Torsen diff and PP tire package allow the car to hook-up really well. 2nd gear WOT from 3K RPM, the rear wiggles a bit, squats and just hauls......very addicting.
You will lose the strut brace with a FRPP/Roush blower.....BTW.
You will lose the strut brace with a FRPP/Roush blower.....BTW.
jwhite
jwhite
I can save you some $, as I just put mine up for sale.
Go Performance pack, although you might eventually change gearing to the 3.55's with the SC'er. The breaks on my PP are almost every bit as good as my 350. The larger radiator is almost a must with the elevated temps of the SC'er also.
Don't listen to auto trany guys telling you your going to burn up clutch's, not going to happen if you know how to drive a manual.
Go Performance pack, although you might eventually change gearing to the 3.55's with the SC'er. The breaks on my PP are almost every bit as good as my 350. The larger radiator is almost a must with the elevated temps of the SC'er also.
Don't listen to auto trany guys telling you your going to burn up clutch's, not going to happen if you know how to drive a manual.
SpeedLu
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Yea, don't listen to the majority of Mustang owners when they give you advice. :doh: We like making things up to steer new people the wrong way.
bluebeastsrt
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Its pretty common knowledge. That the automatic is fairly indestructible. The manual has had its issues. Manuals seam to break more axles. Autos don't. I don't have to ride my clutch to launch my car properly. Enjoying a manual is a personal choice. And I respect people's choices. But don't ignore the fact that your way more likely to break something in the drive line with a manual. Did your GT come with the same manual transmission as the GT350? No? Wonder why?
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wireeater
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There should really be no second guessing the performance pack unless you want an auto or a strictly drag car, otherwise it's worth it in every bit. I just did my 4th mountain cruise with it yesterday since having it in June. I just hit 4000 miles and let me tell you, the car is amazing. I haven't upgraded anything other than the wheels. The car handles awesome on the curvy roads.
Carfanatic
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- #22
I want a manual for sure. I enjoy shifting. I guess I'll have to deal with the issues if they arise. Wonder why ford just doesn't use the tremec. It sounds as if I should get the track pack.
Is there other chassis stiffening items besides the strut bar?
Is there other chassis stiffening items besides the strut bar?
fionic
spaghettios and cheerios
Carfanatic
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- #24
it says unique chassis tuning... I was wondering what that was. just shocks and springs?
wireeater
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I'm not trying to be a dick but there are probably at least 4 20+ post threads on this subject in the past few months that have TONS of info on the package and what it is. PP has bushing upgrades, you have different shocks and struts and the word "tuned" is probably in relation to those things.
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Carfanatic
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ok I will do a search thanks
Monopoly
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I'm guessing the MT82 costs less? I could be wrong.
If my transmission goes for whatever reason. I'll be replacing it with a 6060. Friends have bought re-furb'd ones from a shop in Michigan and have had no issues so far. Also quite the savings over a new one.
JCGT
Well-Known Member
I think this is the most recent one but there are more
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60623&highlight=worth
15wile
Well-Known Member
A f*cktard's (me, not you) guide for whether or not to buy the PP:
1. Do you intend to replace most of the components listed in the PP with better aftermarket pieces?
If yes, don't buy the PP. If no, continue:
2. Are you a cheap ass who wants the lowest purchase price possible and can live with the base model parts?
If yes, don't buy the PP. If no, continue:
3. Do you intend to build a drag car, and specifically want the gear ratios and lighter weight of the base model for this purpose?
If yes, don't buy the PP. If no, buy the PP.
1. Do you intend to replace most of the components listed in the PP with better aftermarket pieces?
If yes, don't buy the PP. If no, continue:
2. Are you a cheap ass who wants the lowest purchase price possible and can live with the base model parts?
If yes, don't buy the PP. If no, continue:
3. Do you intend to build a drag car, and specifically want the gear ratios and lighter weight of the base model for this purpose?
If yes, don't buy the PP. If no, buy the PP.
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