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oesman
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I had the same problem too. Ended up figuring it out and you will too :-). Here is a pic of how it ended up looking after i got it setup:
http://internalscripts.com/random/IMG_4673.jpg
Basically you loosen the pivot bolt on the main body of the bracket. Then you loosen the jackscrew that is next to the pivot bolt at the base of the threaded rod which has the brass collar on top. Just loosen it a little bit, I believe it's 1/2 a turn or so. Then you start to turn the brass collar at the top of the threaded rod counterclockwise. This will rotate the tensioner around the pivot bolt axis and line up the markings. Line em up like in my pic, which was taken from the top.
Once you are lined up tighten the pivot bolt (first one on the main body) snug so the tensioner can't rotate anymore. Then go back to the brass collar that you were using to rotate the tensioner and turn it clockwise (opposite of before) to release the pressure on the threaded rod/jackscrew. Now snug back down the jackscrew next to the pivot bolt. Boom you have a perfectly tensioned and aligned pulley/belt. Get your car dialed in and after 100 miles or so re-tension.
Essentially if you look at the front of the bracket and tensioner adjustment you can see how it works. The pivot bolt holds the tensioner in it's place permanently. The jack screw is pushed with the threaded rod and brass collar to rotate the tensioner around its axis (which is the pivot bolt). Once in place you just nail it down with the pivot bolt and release the pressure on the threaded rod and jack screw since the force of the brass collar is no longer needed to rotate the tensioner into place.
I hear the frustration in your post and I've been there before myself. I'm sure your install will go well, just take a breath if things get confusing and hit up the forum again, we'll help ya out
. The documentation on the tensioner is pretty obtuse. Lots of people have problems with this one. The overall design is not bad, just needs more practical explanation. They should have also labeled, numbered, colored or otherwise made the markers more deterministic for first time use. However, keep in mind that this is because we're talking direct consumer installation. For example if you're a shop and you've done supercharger kits before you could figure out the right markings based on prior experience. As a rule of thumb a properly tightened supercharger belt can rotated by hand (using your thumb and index finger) to no more/less than 90 degrees at it's longest free run between pulleys. Learned that before kits even had markings ;-), hipster FI here. The procharger markings jive with that rule of thumb, my belt perfectly rotates to 90 degrees by hand without excessive force and I don't get any belt slip.Working with DIY consumers is not the traditional practice for most these forced induction companies. They distribute their products through channel/resellers and those companies have their own policies along with guidance from the manufacturer for how the product is sold. Traditionally complex systems would mostly be sold to performance shops and those shops would then work with channel partners and/or the manufacturer for support when needed. End customers would get support from the performance shop. It's basically not a system setup for DIY work.
Of course manufacturers know that resellers will sell these to consumers. I'm not sure if all manufacturers allow this, but procharger clearly doesn't have a problem with it. As a result many consumers like you and I will attempt DIY installs due to the amount of videos, info, photos, guides, and availability of local and remote tuning. The mystery is largely gone and consumer confidence in DIY installs ends up being problematic when instructions are unclear, or say things like "now remove the factory fuel injectors" and the consumer has no idea how fuel injectors should be serviced on their vehicle.
That being said Procharger has one of the easiest to follow installations, it's nothing compared to oldschool supercharger kits that basically had to be hacked together. They have an excellent level of detail and they could have left a lot out by simply assuming installer competence. Despite these efforts there are some obtuse instructions and assumptions of familiarity with various processes that remain. This means when things don't go right it may be quite a challenge for a DIY consumer to work out why the system isn't working, but the issue may be obvious to a professional installer/tuner. Just don't give up and come hit us up if you get stuck, I'm sure the other guys here will help you out too.
ProChargerTECH
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Nailed it!
These cars run such a large blower pulley due to RPM, it doesn't take much tension for them to operate without slip. So thats very nice that such little force is placed on the crank.
oesman
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Yea there's so much wrap too! I remember crappy kits that I had to get creative with and invent my own belt routing just to get more wrap. I once paid to have a company in china make me 10 custom belts (minimum order) that were ribbed on BOTH sides of the belt. The reason was that the kit in question expected to use the back side of the belt and run at just a few PSI, it didn't even wrap the belt much around it, maybe like 40%! Obviously I wanted it to run at something like 8 and there was no way to do that with the slippery side of the belt so converting several pulleys including the SC pulley to a ribbed instead of smooth was the solution. Crazy huh?Nailed it!
These cars run such a large blower pulley due to RPM, it doesn't take much tension for them to operate without slip. So thats very nice that such little force is placed on the crank.
BTW, I never did get my PC swag ;-P
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r1lovin
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So i figured it out i just had to keep cranking and it would slowly lined up. Im assuming it has a spring in there. It just seems extremely tight compared to my ho kit. I was concerned about crank pressure. This thing is like hella tight once the 2 marks lined up. Procharger told me first line or a little past. No way in hell im going any tighter. I may even back it off a bit.
Dominant1
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Ok because I'm putting a new gates hd green belt which is a much better quality belt then the one that comes with the kit. If your interested in doing the same its part# is k080670hd for our kit. I bought 2 myself from amazon $44 each!
ahl395
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Personally I ignore the tensioner lines and tighten up the belt to the correct tension by hand. Then I'll look at the lines. Cant remember where mine is but its on/near one of them lol. Since every setup is a little different I'd rather go by feeling the belt flex rather than lines.
oesman
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Keep in mind guys the size of your pulley and length of your belt will affect which lines match up! I was talking to one of you guys in PM and I'll echo what [MENTION=20644]ahl395[/MENTION] just said, go by feel. I gave a general description of how to do that in the second post in this thread.
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Dominant1
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So to release the tension from my current belt i loosen the tensioner nut, then loosen the jack screw 1/2 turn then i turn the brass nut clockwise remove the tension on the old belt. Then i place the new belt on then turn the brass nut counter clockwise until i get close to the marks and feel the right tightness of the belt. Once I'm there i tighten the tensioner bolt and the tighten the jack screw and im done. Then after 100 miles i do the procedure again but this time after loosening the tensioner bolt and jack screw 1/2 turn i turn the brass nut counter clockwise to move the tensioner to get a tighter tension on the now stretched belt, then snug everything up! Again and I'm good right?
ProChargerTECH
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I should make a quick video on this....
Its super easy, and once done correctly should never be touched.
That tensioner actually is awesome if used right.
Three tools are needed.
13mm
14mm
3/4 socket.
Its super easy, and once done correctly should never be touched.
That tensioner actually is awesome if used right.
Three tools are needed.
13mm
14mm
3/4 socket.
Dominant1
Well-Known Member
It would be very helpful if you posted a video, i just want to be sure its right.
Thanks!!!
oesman
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Take the longest run between pulleys and use your thumb and index finger and attempt to rotate the belt 90 degrees. Like you're trying to flip the belt over on it's side. If it's too tight you won't be able to do it without using clearly excessive force. If it's too lose it will rotate past 90 degrees.
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