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Procharger low boost HELP

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Bmaughan

Bmaughan

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I had a valve leak on my paxton car, caused me to see low boost. It was a 3.3" pulley so a similar situation. I only was seeing 8.5 psi.
What valve are you talking about?
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Yikes, so just a bad valve seal? How did you determine this...compression test?
Never asked the shop, they just told me the valve wasn't closing properly replaced
What valve are you talking about?
Basically what happened is, I brought my car to the shop to dyno after I changed some things. I noticed that it was only making 8.5 psi and had them check it out. it's been years since this happened so I don't quite recall all the specifics, but they told me the valve had worn out, I'm pretty sure they meant in the waste gate. He said that it isn't uncommon for this to happen. I don't recall if it couldn't close properly or if the carbon fiber or rubber or whatever material was damaged. I had done so many things to that car I sometimes lose track but I do remember a picture that looked like it was a tiny hole or opening in it and thats what caused the problem. Wish I remembered more of the specifics but I don't think he replaced the whole waste gate, just a part in it. It might have even been a different piece inside the waste gate.
 
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Never asked the shop, they just told me the valve wasn't closing properly replaced


Basically what happened is, I brought my car to the shop to dyno after I changed some things. I noticed that it was only making 8.5 psi and had them check it out. it's been years since this happened so I don't quite recall all the specifics, but they told me the valve had worn out, I'm pretty sure they meant in the waste gate. He said that it isn't uncommon for this to happen. I don't recall if it couldn't close properly or if the carbon fiber or rubber or whatever material was damaged. I had done so many things to that car I sometimes lose track but I do remember a picture that looked like it was a tiny hole or opening in it and thats what caused the problem. Wish I remembered more of the specifics but I don't think he replaced the whole waste gate, just a part in it. It might have even been a different piece inside the waste gate.
Ah gotcha! I thought you were talking about a valve in the head! I was really hoping I wouldn’t have to deal with that! Haha
 
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So just to make sure I’m not doing something stupid.. here’s my vacuum setup.

Bottom left of the aspiration goes to the manifold
Top left is capped off
Top right goes to the brake booster
Bottom right goes to vacuum/boost block.

Manifold connects to evaporate solenoid
Manifold pvc connection capped off

When hooking it up I just used what felt like common sense ...no instructions or anything so maybe I did something wrong.

I just used the aspirator as a check valve for the brake booster. That seem like the right idea?
C98E6A77-930F-4114-ABA7-68AB5F39FE42.jpeg
 
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My car is a 2015 by the way.
 

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2 questions regarding vacuum:

1. Do I need to cap of the front an rear cmcv ports? I was under the understanding that they were just a simple pass through.

2. Is it ok to route the evap solenoid right off the manifold when running FI? That’s how it is currently set up..
 

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2 questions regarding vacuum:

1. Do I need to cap of the front an rear cmcv ports? I was under the understanding that they were just a simple pass through.

2. Is it ok to route the evap solenoid right off the manifold when running FI? That’s how it is currently set up..
1. No
2. Yes
 
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1. No
2. Yes
Thanks for the help!

Now I’m at a loss...I have no idea what could be causing this low boost problem. Everything seems to be good... the car is running really well. The boost has to be going somewhere! haha
Weird
 

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That can be deleted if you don't want to have brakes, it's for your brake booster/aspirator.
 

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What exactly does this part do and can it be deleted some how?
You could replace it with a simple check valve but yeah i order to keep the brake booster from seeing manifold pressure there needs to be something there.
 

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You could replace it with a simple check valve but yeah i order to keep the brake booster from seeing manifold pressure there needs to be something there.
you could still get rid of it. The brake booster has an internal check valve in it as well.
 
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you could still get rid of it. The brake booster has an internal check valve in it as well.
Oh it does.. I didn’t know that.
2 more questions for you if you don’t mind:

1.Do you see anything wrong with my vacuum set up?
2. I appreciated your recent thread on the proflo...in your experience have you ever had an issue with it not closing all the way under boost?

I’ve checked everything I can think of and the Valve is the last thing on my list.
 

Jay-rod427

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Oh it does.. I didn’t know that.
2 more questions for you if you don’t mind:

1.Do you see anything wrong with my vacuum set up?
2. I appreciated your recent thread on the proflo...in your experience have you ever had an issue with it not closing all the way under boost?

I’ve checked everything I can think of and the Valve is the last thing on my list.

Your vacuum setup is nearly identical to what I had, except for I deleted the purge solenoid. for verification of the check valve on your booster run the car a minute, shut it off, and then pull the booster vacuum line off at the booster. It will whoosh indicating it was still holding vacuum via check valve.

Man I would look hard at belt slip. 3.4" pulley is pretty small and the 6 rib HO system doesn't have the greatest belt wrap around the pulley.

Bypass/blow off valves only don't close when there's something wrong with them. The proflo is susceptible to the linkage hitting the body as said. As far boost keeping it open it's only bad vacuum/boost signal, leaking diaphragm, or mechanical linkage problem. I have never personally seen any bypass/blow off valve not work correctly under full throttle/boost conditions. Seen tons of problems when they are open incorrectly at vacuum, but never under throttle/boost in my experience.

I think you posted some earlier, but post a log on your smallest pulley into datazap.me then post that log here. If there is belt slip it will climb nice and steady, then start jumping around. Also look for belt dust on your pulleys, and marks on the belt. Here's an example of datazap log that's much easier to read. Notice the "analog 1 psi" is boost. Fairly steady climb(don't get caught up on the baby spikes, that's just sensor resolution).

https://datazap.me/u/jay-rod427/413?log=0&data=1-40
 
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Bmaughan

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Thanks so much for the help! I’m just about to run into work for a bit but I’ll upload the log as soon as I get a spare moment.

Thanks again!
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