Procharger low boost HELP

[sloride]

Mine is fairly similar. Top left supplies vacuum to my 2018 manifold with IMRC’s functional. Top right brake booster. Bottom left Procharger supplied vacuum block. Bottom right manifold vacuum.

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[Bmaughan]

Mine is fairly similar. Top left supplies vacuum to my 2018 manifold with IMRC’s functional. Top right brake booster. Bottom left Procharger supplied vacuum block. Bottom right manifold vacuum.

Interesting that you have the imrc functional... who tuned your setup?

 

[sloride]

Interesting that you have the imrc functional... who tuned your setup?

I have been tuning it myself. Bought VMP’s pigtails. There was some voltages that needed in the tune that needed to be changed versus my 2016 imrc voltages

 

[Bmaughan]

I have been tuning it myself. Bought VMP’s pigtails. There was some voltages that needed in the tune that needed to be changed versus my 2016 imrc voltages

gotcha...thats great!
Even though i would love to learn, i wouldn't even know where to begin with the whole tuning thing...

 

[Bmaughan]

Your vacuum setup is nearly identical to what I had, except for I deleted the purge solenoid. for verification of the check valve on your booster run the car a minute, shut it off, and then pull the booster vacuum line off at the booster. It will whoosh indicating it was still holding vacuum via check valve.

Man I would look hard at belt slip. 3.4" pulley is pretty small and the 6 rib HO system doesn't have the greatest belt wrap around the pulley.

Bypass/blow off valves only don't close when there's something wrong with them. The proflo is susceptible to the linkage hitting the body as said. As far boost keeping it open it's only bad vacuum/boost signal, leaking diaphragm, or mechanical linkage problem. I have never personally seen any bypass/blow off valve not work correctly under full throttle/boost conditions. Seen tons of problems when they are open incorrectly at vacuum, but never under throttle/boost in my experience.

I think you posted some earlier, but post a log on your smallest pulley into datazap.me then post that log here. If there is belt slip it will climb nice and steady, then start jumping around. Also look for belt dust on your pulleys, and marks on the belt. Here's an example of datazap log that's much easier to read. Notice the "analog 1 psi" is boost. Fairly steady climb(don't get caught up on the baby spikes, that's just sensor resolution).

https://datazap.me/u/jay-rod427/413?log=0&data=1-40

this datazap thing is awesome! i'd never heard of it until now. thanks for that!

so here's a log from a day or two ago on the 3.4" pulley
https://datazap.me/u/bmaughan/log-1582251293?log=0&data=1

and here is another from today that seems to be showing a higher boost number...so thats interesting
https://datazap.me/u/bmaughan/log-1582251293?log=1&data=1

let me know what you think, thanks!

 

[sloride]

What is the issue again. From your log you are almost at 11psi shown by analog1 and your airload seems to be just as close to 11psi. All I see is maybe your fueling is almost asking for 13% more between your short terms and long terms

 

[Bmaughan]

What is the issue again. From your log you are almost at 11psi shown by analog1 and your airload seems to be just as close to 11psi. All I see is maybe your fueling is almost asking for 13% more between your short terms and long terms

Hopefully this makes sense but basically the issue is that I’m not seeing as much boost as expected according to procharger. I’m maxing out the p1sc with the 3.4” pulley.
From what I understand i should be getting 12-13lbs on the 3.4” considering I was getting 7.5lbs on a 4”.


I’m totally clueless with a lot of this stuff but would love to understand.

Are you saying my fuel system is tapped?
How do I interpret short and long term fuel trim numbers?

 

[sloride]

Like I said your are at basically 11psi. I wouldn’t sweat thinking you should be at 12-13. Could be differences in gauge calibration , barometric pressure, temperature etc. I’d call that close enough. As far as fueling I misspoke. I tune with HpTuners and my trims actually spit out a %. But I think you’re Ok. In your case I believe STFT of 1.09 is adding 9% fuel but with the LTFT of .97 or subtracting 3% with a net of 6% is decent. Rule of thumb it’s nice to get to +\- 5%

 

[Bmaughan]

Like I said your are at basically 11psi. I wouldn’t sweat thinking you should be at 12-13. Could be differences in gauge calibration , barometric pressure, temperature etc. I’d call that close enough. As far as fueling I misspoke. I tune with HpTuners and my trims actually spit out a %. But I think you’re Ok. In your case I believe STFT of 1.09 is adding 9% fuel but with the LTFT of .97 or subtracting 3% with a net of 6% is decent. Rule of thumb it’s nice to get to +\- 5%

Ok..it just seemed weird to me when so many people make so much more with the p1sc.

Is the 6% discrepancy and issue of tuning or running out of fuel pump?

Side note: How does the timing look?

Ok one more question..if you don’t mind.
do you see anything weird right at the moment the throttle is let off? The car kind of bucks at that moment and I just want to make sure the BOV is operating properly.

Thanks so much for the help!

 

[Jay-rod427]

Logs don’t look bad at all other than slight fueling correction. Boost 11-12 lbs range @7500 isn’t bad at 80 degrees. Weather changes the air big time when it comes to boost density.

You are not maxing out the p1sc. You need the bigger stage 2 balancer to spin it faster. But that requires 8 rib upgrade. You’re only at 61,300 impeller rpm. The p1sc-1 can go to 65,000, or slightly over spin since overspin is for such a short time.

and 20-21 degrees timing with a happy knock sensor is real decent for e85. Tuner could maybe eek out a little more, but not worth it possibly getting lower E content on a tank.

the buck is the car unloading everything when you let off, and prob upshifts at the same time.

car should run real solid as is

 

[Bmaughan]

Logs don’t look bad at all other than slight fueling correction. Boost 11-12 lbs range @7500 isn’t bad at 80 degrees. Weather changes the air big time when it comes to boost density.

You are not maxing out the p1sc. You need the bigger stage 2 balancer to spin it faster. But that requires 8 rib upgrade. You’re only at 61,300 impeller rpm. The p1sc-1 can go to 65,000, or slightly over spin since overspin is for such a short time.

and 20-21 degrees timing with a happy knock sensor is real decent for e85. Tuner could maybe eek out a little more, but not worth it possibly getting lower E content on a tank.

the buck is the car unloading everything when you let off, and prob upshifts at the same time.

car should run real solid as is

This is all encouraging info! I appreciate you taking the time to look it over.

Hopefully you don’t mind me asking a just few more questions...

1.what does the “slight fueling correction” mean exactly? Not sure how fuel trims work.

2. On a semi-related note:
are you able to see fuel pump or injector duty cycle on the logs?
I’m curious how hard I’m pushing my fuel system at this power level.

3. This will probably already be answered at this point...
Is the fueling correction you were talking about related to fuel system limitations in any way?

 

[Jay-rod427]

Like slo said long term is taking away a little fuel, short term is adding a little so they basically washout. No you’re not running out of fuel, the computer is just doing its job to fine tune exact air fuel ratio of .77 or so at wot. Long term fuel trims are slow reacting kinda like average adjustments, short terms are near instant adjustments. Data log a bone stock car and you’ll see fuel trims worse than that. Lol
Injector duty cycle is not something nguage logs. But you’re fueling is just fine.

Put the nguage away and enjoy. You’ll drive yourself nuts looking at that data all the time.

 

[Bmaughan]

Like slo said long term is taking away a little fuel, short term is adding a little so they basically washout. No you’re not running out of fuel, the computer is just doing its job to fine tune exact air fuel ratio of .77 or so at wot. Long term fuel trims are slow reacting kinda like average adjustments, short terms are near instant adjustments. Data log a bone stock car and you’ll see fuel trims worse than that. Lol
Injector duty cycle is not something nguage logs. But you’re fueling is just fine.

Put the nguage away and enjoy. You’ll drive yourself nuts looking at that data all the time.

Haha good advice...again I appreciate all the help!

 

[sloride]

As stated looking over the data all the time could create some anxiety. But things to watch when you are looking. If your AFR doesn’t start creeping up from .79 at WOT to say .82-.83 your fueling is fine. You know to watch knock. If you were able to log injector pulse width you could hand calculate injector duty cycle if interested in where you were at ballpark wise.

 

[Bmaughan]

As stated looking over the data all the time could create some anxiety. But things to watch when you are looking. If your AFR doesn’t start creeping up from .79 at WOT to say .82-.83 your fueling is fine. You know to watch knock. If you were able to log injector pulse width you could hand calculate injector duty cycle if interested in where you were at ballpark wise.

Ok that’s good to know...
Like I said before I’d really like to learn this side of engine building.. I’m pretty good with the mechanical stuff but when it comes to the tune and digital control stuff I’m clueless.

Do you have any place you’d recommend going to learn? Books, websites, online schools? How have you guys learned?

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