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- Oct 23, 2014
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- 2015 Mustang(s)
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My dudes,
I have been getting a lot of PM's chatting about inlets and brackets.
Figured I would just post it up in here, so everyone can know the deal.
Figured I would throw up some images of these on the GT350 I just finished.
(Little bugger almost made 900 with pump gas and 9psi of boost... )
Inlet:
Yes, over the years we made some changes to the inlet (moved to a hard plastic inlet maybe 2 years ago?)
I have made well over 1000hp with this inlet and the filter still on. (937 with P1X, 1101 with F1A)
Openly I will admit I have never tested it to the 1,200 wheel HP range, though maybe someday.
New tensioner:
To make belt changes quicker and easier across all platforms (GM, Dodge, Ford)
We have moved to a more conventional style tensioner. (meaning it works like a stock unit)
I just wanted to clear up the confusion on why some of the newer kits look different then older units.
Just stick a 1/2" drive ratchet into the center hole, and turn it to remove the belt.
The three outboard bolts are what mount it to the bracket, and it can be clocked to add or remove tension.
There's really no reason for a person to swap to this style, if they are using their older style correctly.
Both will support well over 1,000hp without issue...
This change was only to spead up installation and cut down on phone calls.
For folks asking how to work the older unit.
Thanks for reading rock stars...
Erik @ ProCharger
I have been getting a lot of PM's chatting about inlets and brackets.
Figured I would just post it up in here, so everyone can know the deal.
Figured I would throw up some images of these on the GT350 I just finished.
(Little bugger almost made 900 with pump gas and 9psi of boost... )
Inlet:
Yes, over the years we made some changes to the inlet (moved to a hard plastic inlet maybe 2 years ago?)
I have made well over 1000hp with this inlet and the filter still on. (937 with P1X, 1101 with F1A)
Openly I will admit I have never tested it to the 1,200 wheel HP range, though maybe someday.
New tensioner:
To make belt changes quicker and easier across all platforms (GM, Dodge, Ford)
We have moved to a more conventional style tensioner. (meaning it works like a stock unit)
I just wanted to clear up the confusion on why some of the newer kits look different then older units.
Just stick a 1/2" drive ratchet into the center hole, and turn it to remove the belt.
The three outboard bolts are what mount it to the bracket, and it can be clocked to add or remove tension.
There's really no reason for a person to swap to this style, if they are using their older style correctly.
Both will support well over 1,000hp without issue...
This change was only to spead up installation and cut down on phone calls.
For folks asking how to work the older unit.
Thanks for reading rock stars...
Erik @ ProCharger
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