Problem getting alignment?

[NoXiDe]

The question I'm about to ask is slightly relevant to this topic. I've noticed the trend from hardcore trackers is they go full out on these mods. Does an average joe who just wants to participate in a few events a year really need these > -2.0 negative camber mods?

-3.8 *F and -2.5 * Rear <- specs from time attack gt350 owner.

What's wrong with the OEM Track Specs? R, -2.20 * F and -1.60*R.

I get the need for more contact on the turn but why does Ford Performance not go full tilt on that.

I also understand that many who recommend these aggressive (normal for the track) specs are dedicated track cars.

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[jmn444]

Imo ford isn't going to recommend anything that may bias the car to oversteer. You will kill tires on track with less aggressive settings but depends how fast you are too.

 

[NoXiDe]

That appears to be the common response among many. I understand. I guess it costs money to play regardless of how you want to cut the cookie. Sounds like I'll know right away if my settings (for the style of driver, speed, and skill) will burn through my tires the first year and then the second year to allow me to plan better.

 

[JAJ]

That appears to be the common response among many. I understand. I guess it costs money to play regardless of how you want to cut the cookie. Sounds like I'll know right away if my settings (for the style of driver, speed, and skill) will burn through my tires the first year and then the second year to allow me to plan better.

The right answer is rather more complicated. The only way to really know is to check your tire temps with a pyrometer. I run the settings from the GT350 supplement (2.2F, 1.6R) and my tire temps are actually a little higher on the inside edge than on the outside edge, indicating that I could run less camber. I use OEM 30# rims, though, and they're stiffer than most of the aftermarket wheels. It's not that I'm averse to high camber numbers - I used to run 3.5 degrees on the front of my S197 GT500.

 

[jmn444]

The right answer is rather more complicated. The only way to really know is to check your tire temps with a pyrometer. I run the settings from the GT350 supplement (2.2F, 1.6R) and my tire temps are actually a little higher on the inside edge than on the outside edge, indicating that I could run less camber. I use OEM 30# rims, though, and they're stiffer than most of the aftermarket wheels. It's not that I'm averse to high camber numbers - I used to run 3.5 degrees on the front of my S197 GT500.

Hows your actual tire wear look? I run 3.2 and still am wearing outer half quicker but braking suffers when I go much higher so I compromise...

 

[JAJ]

Hows your actual tire wear look? I run 3.2 and still am wearing outer half quicker but braking suffers when I go much higher so I compromise...

I did two events on a brand new set of GY 3R's and they were pretty even across the tread. My MPSC2's tend to wear more on the outside too, but they have different compounds across the tread. With them I'm inclined to consider wear differences a feature rather than a bug. If the tire's built to wear faster on the outside, it's pretty hard to convince it not to.

 

[jmn444]

agreed on the cup2's. both my gy 3 and 3r's are showing outside wear bias, but they are overall lasting better than i expected anyway so not gonna change anything. they are both awesome tires IMO

 

[REDLINE]

Skip those steeds rear camber things. They don’t fit GT350s well due to a magneride harness and they’re still ridiculously obnoxious to adjust.

The OEM design is stupid, but works fine for street use. If you’re tracking your car, highly recommend an adjustable upper control arm like ones from full tilt boogie, BMR, etc. more stable, easier to reach, and adjustable in 20 seconds vs minute of swearing and bloody knuckles.

Honeybadger, I couldn’t find any adjustable ones from BMR. Are these the ones your talking about?

http://fulltiltboogieracing.com/images/FT 545 - S550 Adjustable Upper Control Arm.jpg

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-rear-adjustable-camber-arms-15-16-all-555-4123.html

 

[JAJ]

Honeybadger, I couldn’t find any adjustable ones from BMR. Are these the ones your talking about?

http://fulltiltboogieracing.com/images/FT 545 - S550 Adjustable Upper Control Arm.jpg

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-rear-adjustable-camber-arms-15-16-all-555-4123.html

Here's the BMR link:

https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1936&superpro=0

I have the BMR's. Easy to adjust, look strong as heck.

SPC is another good one - note that they're sold individually, so they're quite spendy. Massive aluminum beam structure. They are locked in the bolt slot at the inboard end and they adjust at the outboard end with an eccentric that can't move once it's torqued up.

https://www.spcalignment.com/component/spc/?task=part_description&pid=72370&region=USA&make=Ford&model=Mustang&year=2018 - 2018&from=USAFrom&to=USATo

 

[REDLINE]

Here's the BMR link:

https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1936&superpro=0

I have the BMR's. Easy to adjust, look strong as heck.

SPC is another good one - note that they're sold individually, so they're quite spendy. Massive aluminum beam structure. They are locked in the bolt slot at the inboard end and they adjust at the outboard end with an eccentric that can't move once it's torqued up.

https://www.spcalignment.com/component/spc/?task=part_description&pid=72370&region=USA&make=Ford&model=Mustang&year=2018 - 2018&from=USAFrom&to=USATo

Thanks Jaj. Now to figure out which one to go with...

 

[honeybadger]

Honeybadger, I couldn’t find any adjustable ones from BMR. Are these the ones your talking about?

http://fulltiltboogieracing.com/images/FT 545 - S550 Adjustable Upper Control Arm.jpg

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-rear-adjustable-camber-arms-15-16-all-555-4123.html

I really like the FTB. They have knurling on the part that goes in the slot and I haven’t had any issues with mine moving. Although I’d like a lockout. I run FTB arms (toe and upper control) and am very happy. FTB stuff is very well built. The upper control arms from BMR are okay, not their best piece, IMHO.

The SPC pieces look nice and sturdy, but I despise concentric bolts. They’re so much harder to be precise with.

 

[galaxy]

When you guys install an aftermarket upper control arm, how did you address mounting it on the subframe end, since it has that eccentric hole? Does it slide one end or the other and just lock it down, do you try to make any adjustment with the factory hole, or does something come with the new arm to just lock it into a position? (I understand once tightened in place, you don't use that to make adjustments anymore).

 

[jmn444]

When you guys install an aftermarket upper control arm, how did you address mounting it on the subframe end, since it has that eccentric hole? Does it slide one end or the other and just lock it down, do you try to make any adjustment with the factory hole, or does something come with the new arm to just lock it into a position? (I understand once tightened in place, you don't use that to make adjustments anymore).

I used the bmr lockout kit:

https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1909&desktop=1

was a pain in the ass to install and tighten IMO

 

[JAJ]

When you guys install an aftermarket upper control arm, how did you address mounting it on the subframe end, since it has that eccentric hole? Does it slide one end or the other and just lock it down, do you try to make any adjustment with the factory hole, or does something come with the new arm to just lock it into a position? (I understand once tightened in place, you don't use that to make adjustments anymore).

BMR posted a set of camber change vs suspension motion charts on a forum - might have been this one - Google should be able to find them for you. In any case, the curves looked best with the upper control arm pushed all the way in (toward the vehicle centerline) rather than all the way out.

As for how to keep them there, I'm using the locks from my set of SPC arms. There's no real evidence that locks are needed with the OEM arms because they have ridges on them that lock them in place when they're torqued down. Aftermarket arms tend to have smooth faces, so locks are good.

OEM arms with ridges to lock it in place after tightening:

Here's what an SPC lock looks like - I used the ones with the hole right at the end to hold my BMR upper arms in place:

 

[jmn444]

damn, i never considered the geometric gain to be had by putting the upper pivot max inboard. Pretty sure I used the inboard position but didn't really think about it at the time.

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