Post-purchase Audio Upgrade...

[neozeric]

anyone install a aftermarket amp and have to go through the firewall? I am about to tackle this project today and am installing a 300watt RF amp and a JL slimline 8 sub. I have the eco basso with PP.

This thread has info and pictures regarding the power through the firewall

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14228

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[ThirtyThreePointThree]

anyone install a aftermarket amp and have to go through the firewall? I am about to tackle this project today and am installing a 300watt RF amp and a JL slimline 8 sub. I have the eco basso with PP.

Yup neo beat me to it. Take off that front right tire, pull back the fender lining, and you'll see it. I'd recommend cutting the nipple you see and running through that. You'll need to pull back the carpet on the passenger side floor to properly catch the wire as it comes through or it might just get stuck against the firewall. It was kind of a weird angle to route through if I remember correctly, but totally a worthwhile path.

I used the same method, and then I just ran the power underneath the passenger kick panel > door sill > rear passenger side interior panel > hole for seatbelt feed(once you pop off the passenger rear panel you'll see what i am talking about). Then, the wire comes out behind the carpet lining the side of the trunk. There's a grommet holding down the carpet near the trunk opening I pulled out as well as a magnet that easily snaps off. Once that was off and pulled back, I finished pulling my power cable through and routed it as I saw fit in my trunk.

I had a 20' power cable and used up every foot of it getting to the rear middle of my trunk, so keep that in mind if you are going to cut your own power cable.

Hope that helps

 

[Bryman]

33.3 - dude, dying for pics of your setup!

:hail::hail::hail:

 

[neozeric]

Yup neo beat me to it. Take off that front right tire, pull back the fender lining, and you'll see it. I'd recommend cutting the nipple you see and running through that. You'll need to pull back the carpet on the passenger side floor to properly catch the wire as it comes through or it might just get stuck against the firewall. It was kind of a weird angle to route through if I remember correctly, but totally a worthwhile path.

I used the same method, and then I just ran the power underneath the passenger kick panel > door sill > rear passenger side interior panel > hole for seatbelt feed(once you pop off the passenger rear panel you'll see what i am talking about). Then, the wire comes out behind the carpet lining the side of the trunk. There's a grommet holding down the carpet near the trunk opening I pulled out as well as a magnet that easily snaps off. Once that was off and pulled back, I finished pulling my power cable through and routed it as I saw fit in my trunk.

I had a 20' power cable and used up every foot of it getting to the rear middle of my trunk, so keep that in mind if you are going to cut your own power cable.

Hope that helps

I assume run the RCA cables and speaker cables down the same path on the driver's side ?

 

[ThirtyThreePointThree]

I assume run the RCA cables and speaker cables down the same path on the driver's side ?

You got it chief :-) and as far as where to tap into for high level inputs for a Loc(which I'm assuming is your plan), check ecosnake's thread as he did the same thing with a base EB. Mines a premium so I just tapped into the output of the factory amp under the drivers side kick panel.
Also, with an EB, highly recommend pulling the rear mic or you're gonna get engine moaning with any sub of appreciable power at low rpms(I did with a 10" running 300W rms). You can just pull on the rear ceiling in the back near where it connects with the rear window. There's just two magnets and a weak grommet holding it down. Then you can clearly see the mic harness and unplug it.

 

[ThirtyThreePointThree]

33.3 - dude, dying for pics of your setup!

:hail::hail::hail:

I'll see if I can get some decent pics taken tonight and start a thread for my car to have it documented for reference. Won't be able to show everything because I don't wanna rip up all the panels again but I'll show what I can :-)

Also, I ended up ordering those precision power 3ways so ill document that installation process best I can when it happens. I haven't experimented with taking off the doors yet...

 

[neozeric]

You got it chief :-) and as far as where to tap into for high level inputs for a Loc(which I'm assuming is your plan), check ecosnake's thread as he did the same thing with a base EB. Mines a premium so I just tapped into the output of the factory amp under the drivers side kick panel.
Also, with an EB, highly recommend pulling the rear mic or you're gonna get engine moaning with any sub of appreciable power at low rpms(I did with a 10" running 300W rms). You can just pull on the rear ceiling in the back near where it connects with the rear window. There's just two magnets and a weak grommet holding it down. Then you can clearly see the mic harness and unplug it.

I'm getting a Premium GT, so tap into the Front and/or Rear speaker out from the amp into the LOC/DSP and then back into the factory speaker wires?

Any reason to put the LOC/DSP upfront as opposed to the trunk with the amp(s) ?

All speakers and new sub will run off an aftermarket amp

 

[ThirtyThreePointThree]

I'm getting a Premium GT, so tap into the Front and/or Rear speaker out from the amp into the LOC/DSP and then back into the factory speaker wires?

Any reason to put the LOC/DSP upfront as opposed to the trunk with the amp(s) ?

All speakers and new sub will run off an aftermarket amp

Ah, well if you have a GT then no reason to worry about that mic. then!

Yup, route the factory amp output under the driver's side kick panel to your loc/dsp input. Also, use the output from the FRONT left/right/center channels (5 in total) for your input. Sync does NOT play back through the rear channels(there's a thread for someone who tried to do that). Not sure if the center channel is truly necessary, so if you only have 4 channels of input, just try front left/right. I used it because the ms-8 allows up to 8 channels of input, and I figured the more the merrier.

For routing to the speakers, you can route your amp'd speaker outputs back up to the bare wires going to the speakers themselves. Fair warning, looks like the midrange/tweet speakers have a passive x-over as there is only one speaker line for them by the wiring harnesses. You can either use one channel to drive them(i'm currently doing that, nothing's blown and it sounds fine), or you can take the time to pry off the A-pillars and door panels to run dedicated wires...something i'm not motivated to do until I change out the speakers anyway

As far as placement of the LoC/DSP, I wanted to mount that under a front seat to save on wire running, but there's not enough room unless you raise the seats all the way up. I have my MS-8 in the trunk and my sub amp is right next to it behind the sub box(may just end up bolting the amp to the back of the sub box). No real disadvantage here except longer wires to run. Just use 16AWG speaker wires or bigger and you should be fine. I'm currently using 16AWG.

Last, but certainly not the least, the ground cable. I removed the backseat "butt cushions", found a nice bolt for the seat folding mechanism, and bolted my ground wires to this bolt. I'll try and grab a picture of this later this evening.

 

[neozeric]

I'm replacing the speakers at the same time. So I will just use the factory wires to the passive crossover for the 3 way component set. When using the factory amp, we are cutting the wires to the speakers routing them to the LOC and then back to the other end of the cut wire, correct?

I appreciate all of your help.

 

[Bryman]

Waiting impatiently for 33.3's pics and write up. :headbonk::headbonk::headbonk:
:hail::hail::hail:

 

[gundam83]

I have a spare JBL MS-8 and an AudioControl LC2i line-out converter. I plan to disconnect the rear speakers, replace the front soundstage with components/amp, and add a subwoofer/amp. Is the MS-8 overkill? Should I just use the Audiocontrol Line-Out Converter?

 

[ThirtyThreePointThree]

I have a spare JBL MS-8 and an AudioControl LC2i line-out converter. I plan to disconnect the rear speakers, replace the front soundstage with components/amp, and add a subwoofer/amp. Is the MS-8 overkill? Should I just use the Audiocontrol Line-Out Converter?

Idk how overkill it is because I've never used just a generic LoC, so can't make an objective comparison. Reading around on the DIYmobileaudio forums is probably your best bet.

 

[ThirtyThreePointThree]

Waiting impatiently for 33.3's pics and write up. :headbonk::headbonk::headbonk:
:hail::hail::hail:

Here you go: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16933

 

[Kowalski]

LOL

Start with an amp and new high quality sub and go from there. If that isn't enough, get out your wallet and go for new amp(s), speakers, dloc, etc, etc.

I've done the whole throw out money like I just don't care thing. From now on it's more planning and less wasting.

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