PMAS question

[Gibbo205]

Perfect! I found the snorkel, and will order, and am working to find your pics. From what I can gather, you originally ran the Velossa scoop with the stock airbox, then PMAS, and then switched to the GT350 scoop?

I take it there are pics of your grille mods in the PMAS thread as well?

EDIT: Just ordered the snorkel from JDM.

Yes all there, in short!
- front grill opened up
- velossa big mouth to ensure all fresh air finds way to filter
- GT 350 duct
- PMAS heat front hole made bigger for 350 duct

Upto 20c reduction in IAT and potentially increased flow and more positive pressure.

Sponsored

 

[newkidnik]

Yes all there, in short!
- front grill opened up
- velossa big mouth to ensure all fresh air finds way to filter
- GT 350 duct
- PMAS heat front hole made bigger for 350 duct

Upto 20c reduction in IAT and potentially increased flow and more positive pressure.

Fantastic, I ordered the Big Mouth as well. I suspect I won't be able to use the GT350 snorkel with the stock airbox? but I'll run the Big Mouth, and cut grille, until I decide to pull the trigger on PMAS and a tune where I'll add in the Shelby snorkel.

Thanks for your help! I'm interested to see how it all comes together.

 

[Gibbo205]

Here is what I posted in the main PMAS thread:



So though I love the additional performance and sound from my PMAS, seeing IAT's climb so fast in traffic was scary with ambient temperatures of 24-28c here in the UK I've seen as high as 64c IAT and I have checked my ambient and IAT sensors, YES THEY ARE ACCURATE to within 2c.

In slow moving traffic the PMAS would often still be 15-20c above ambient so easily above 38c IAT, which is the point the car starts pulling timing reducing torque/power/response.

The only way to keep temperatures within 10c of ambient is when at WOT for periods of time often on fast flowing roads or highway driving, at this point they will eventually get to within 5-6c of ambient, which is only 3-4c stock box. But the moment you slow down those temperatures increase, the moment you stop, they sky rocket and even though they come down fast once moving, they would only come down to around 10c above ambient.


How to reduce IAT's with PMAS!

1. Open up the honey combs on front grill or cut them out completely, upto you, I just opened up the honey combs to keep stock look. Use a dremel!
2. Get a Velossa big mouth, again I went with matt black for stock look:

Those two will direct all air entering the front grill to behind the bumper close to the PMAS heatshield, or directly into a stock air box causing RAM AIR effect which is also a proven way to increase horsepower when car has momentum at higher speeds (proven by Porsche & BMW). However with the PMAS there is a big gap from the stock ducting in the bumper to the PMAS heatshield so all that nice fresh air your opened up grill and bigmouth send in just get washed into the engine bay and do little to benefit IAT's.


So next step was to fill that gap with a duct of some sort to make sure all the air entering the front grill finds it way into the air box both reducing IAT's and causing somewhat RAM AIR effect. I could of just chopped the duct of the stock air box, that would also work fine, but I did not want to destroy my stock air box for obvious reasons.


3. So I purchased the Shelby GT 350 RAM air duct from TeamJDM for $38 (circled in blue):

4. I then enlarged the hole on the PMAS heatshield, PMAS actually recommended this as the result should be no loss in flow, potentially even more flow, if your really worried you could even drill a few large holes on the wing side, but the guys who build race cars told me that ducting and larger hole in the heatshield will actually flow as well if not better with the advantage of lower IAT's, they gave it a big thumbs up:

5. With the larger opening the ducting now tightly slots into the heatshield, I drilled some holes around the heatshield matching the cut outs on the ducting to securely attach the duct to the heatshield and it actually fits up real well and tight. If you want to finish it off perfectly you could put some black silicon seal around it, but I feel that is not needed.

6. The finished product, you cannot actually see it unless you specifically look through the front opened up grill and you can see the blow cone filter or look directly from above:

As you can see it fits well and it lines up real nice to the ducting coming from the front grill/bumper meaning now all the cold air entering my front grill is going directly to the filter.

Results:
- Just like when I originally fitted Velossa, throttle response and urgency is improved when going WOT or partial throttle at higher speeds, this I can only assume is down to the RAM air effect.
- Now in traffic the IAT stay within 15-20c of ambient (20c reduction), not seen above 40c yet, compared to previous high of 64c.
- In slow moving city driving, they stay within 10c of ambient (5-10c reduction)
- Faster driving IAT's are 2-5c above ambient (2-3c reduction).
- The heatshield is raised a little at the front with the ducting, still no hood closure insure, infact it just seals the whole intake better from engine heat.


I am in the UK so overall cost was closer to £100, but to me it was still worth while, now on hot summer days my IAT's are staying under 38c so no timing is being pulled, but even better my IAT's are now typically around 20-25c in Summer, so the ECU can add in more timing to create more power. So for me it was worth it, I would say for local USA guys at $38 it is well worth a shot because if you get similar results to me your car will drive even better and your IAT's will be less.

I shall hit the dyno in a week or two with the duct in place, if I am up 10-15BHP over my last run (gains that most see) I will be happy the duct has not restricted flow.

 

[Gibbo205]

Some more pictures to help show it better but its actually flush and spot on:

- Here you can see the ram air duct sits a couple of mm within the PMAS heatshield and then to secure it in place I used cable ties. The fit is great and minimal gaps, if you want perfect you could put some black silicon sealant around it but I see no need, picture below taken from inside PMAS heatshield and second image of how the duct looks from outside heatshield:

- Here you can see how the 350 RAM air duct fits flush up against the car stock bumper ducting, again a near perfect fit with minimal gaps and again if you want a 100% seal then just put some duct tape around it, but again there is really no need.

- Finally a view from the front, you can see my opened up honey combs, velossa big mouth and then just ducting leading right to the PMAS heatshield and PMAS blue cone filter. So the filter is now getting a lot more fresh air directed to it compared to previously and at high speeds even a ram air effect.

Been for another drive this evening, a good hour with a mix of city and spirited driving and the results for IATs are very impressive:

- Highway and spirited driving is now only 2-3c above ambient, before it was 4-7c region.
- City driving without traffic is now 4-6c above ambient, stop at a stop light and it slowly increases to around 10c above ambient but takes longer whereas before it would quickly increase to 20c above ambient. Now when setting off from stop light the temperature falls back to 4-6 above ambient even with just light throttle. Before it took a lot longer and a lot of WOT to get back to lower temps though typical before IATs were always 10c area above ambient, so 4-6c above is nice.
- Heavy traffic, around 20-25c above ambient but it takes time, whereas without the 350 ram air duct it would quickly get to over 40c above ambient.


In short this $38 350 RAM air duct has not only lowered my IAT's considerably it is also helping to create RAM air effect just like Shelby cars have and though it might be placebo the car feels stronger. I say its well worth trying, you have nothing to lose except for $38

Any questions just ask but it is a very easy and cheap modification and solves the PMAS issue of high IAT's and helps create a RAM air effect.

 

[newkidnik]

Gibbo, I have a feeling I'll be your copy cat before you know it.

THANK YOU for the post. It's an amazing help! Can't wait to get started.

 

[MyFirst5.0]

removing the IAT display from my ngauge was the best thing i ever did..

 

[347CobraII]

removing the IAT display from my ngauge was the best thing i ever did..

 

[ArabianOak]

How tough was it cutting the PMAS shield to fit the 350 snorkel?

 

[Gibbo205]

How tough was it cutting the PMAS shield to fit the 350 snorkel?

Easy it's on plastic so a drill and sharp knife can do it. Even easier if you have a dremel with cutting tool.

 

[16s550]

The Snorkel is like making your car breath though a straw rather than suck Even more air in how pmas designed the box . Make sense? I'd trust the engineers who designed it vs the opinion of someone overseas with a m6g account.

 

[Rebellion]

Now, I'm gonna ask a dumb question...

Why not get the JLT to begin with, it already has the snorkel? In principle, does the PMAS provide any additional benefit (with the snorkel mod, of course) from the JLT?

 

[16s550]

Now, I'm gonna ask a dumb question...

Why not get the JLT to begin with, it already has the snorkel? In principle, does the PMAS provide any additional benefit (with the snorkel mod, of course) from the JLT?

The benefit is it. Outflows them all. With a snorkel who knows. I'm sure they would have put one if it had a benefit.

 

[Gibbo205]

The Snorkel is like making your car breath though a straw rather than suck Even more air in how pmas designed the box . Make sense? I'd trust the engineers who designed it vs the opinion of someone overseas with a m6g account.

True but if you open up the entire area from front grill and ensure every bit of air entering the grill finds the filter then it's no longer sucking through a straw infact it no longer needs to suck because air is now being flooded into the heatshield with momentum.

On a stock car this is not true as the front grill is not fully opened up and air entering is not forced towards the filter due to the gap between front bumper grill and the stock ducting. This is why you need a big mouth and the front grill opening up. PMAS did their testing on a stock car and indeed snorkel would limit flow.

A great intake offers great flow, low IAT's and positive air pressure with the modifications I've made flow is not restricted and I have lower IATs and improved air pressure at the filter.

 

[RomanB]

I wonder if this Stang is stuck at 435 crank hp with the stock intake box... Has anyone measure the actual size of the snorkel to the diameter of the TB?

 

[16s550]

True but if you open up the entire area from front grill and ensure every bit of air entering the grill finds the filter then it's no longer sucking through a straw infact it no longer needs to suck because air is now being flooded into the heatshield with momentum.

On a stock car this is not true as the front grill is not fully opened up and air entering is not forced towards the filter due to the gap between front bumper grill and the stock ducting. This is why you need a big mouth and the front grill opening up. PMAS did their testing on a stock car and indeed snorkel would limit flow.

A great intake offers great flow, low IAT's and positive air pressure with the modifications I've made flow is not restricted and I have lower IATs and improved air pressure at the filter.

I bet my car is faster with higher Iat and no snorkel:cheers:

Sponsored