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Plastidip Unfinished Surface?

Jdrid

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I just got my new Steeda Race Wing in and I knew ahead of time that it comes unfinished/unpainted. I'm wondering if Plastidip will damage the spoiler if I try to remove it or look bad since there isn't a coat of paint or anything as a base.

I know getting a body shop to paint it to match the car would be ideal, but since it's just black I figured I could go this route and if it looks off I can just peel the plastidip and get it painted.
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Rdot9

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I don't believe it would hurt/damage anything. It's basically just a "rubber/plastic" coating that covers the existing material.

I've seen it used on paint before and as long as it's fully clean before applying and peeled off and cleaned properly it looked good as new.

I think they even have a "clear coat" type spray or something that gives it a more glossy look.
 

Southview

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It will be fine. :thumbsup:
 

robb

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Friend of mine plasti-dipped his black plastic on his Honda Element. When he peeled it off a year later it severely discolored the plastic. Not sure what color it discolored it to, but that's what he told me.
 
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Jdrid

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I'm sure it'll be fine like you guys have said, I just was unsure of how it reacted to unpainted surfaces, like maybe it needed to have some form of paint to grab onto. I'll probably be doing this work tomorrow, I'll post pictures of how it turns out!
 

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ronemca

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FWIW...

Plasti-Dip has a product called "Glossifier" that adds a sheen to Plasti-Dip'd surfaces. It is only intended to be applied over Plasti-Dip (therefore it should not be thought of as urethane or clear spray paint etc.)

And my opinion is that it will be alright to do what you're proposing (but I am keen to see the result!)
 

chriseco

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Iv plasti dipped bare plastic and bare metal before with out even really cleaning it (to test colors ) and Tooken it off with out problems
 

mlevans1

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Like everyone else has said, it should be fine. If the spoiler is unfinished when you get it, pulling plastidip wont do anything. if you decide to take the dip off and have it painted, the wing will need to be prepared before paint can go on it. IE, sanded down. Nothing to worry about, but please post some pics when you are done :)
 
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Jdrid

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About to head home from work and get started on this, quick question about Glossifier. Can I add the glossifier coats a few days after the regular dip? Or does it need to be right after the black coats dry?
 

T-S550-X

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About to head home from work and get started on this, quick question about Glossifier. Can I add the glossifier coats a few days after the regular dip? Or does it need to be right after the black coats dry?

The problem with plastidip is there is no way to really clean it once you spray it besides soapy water and then water to rinse. If you take a towel to it you run the risk of putting lint on it which is difficult to remove without using water again. Any harsh rubbing with a towel could also pull or tear the plastidip. IME.

If you are gonna add glossifier, I'd do it after you do your last coat of plastidip while the surface is still clean.

There are a ton of vids on youtube for plastidipping, so you might check those out.
 

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ronemca

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I thought I'd jump in here with some neutral feedback...

Until a few days ago I had never used Plastidip. I recently picked up a pair of unpainted quarter window louvers, and I decided to black them. I worked in a huge warehouse (in my t-shirt, so yes - it was heated)

I did zero prep on the parts.

I shook the daylights out of the rattle can, and I applied a very thin coat. Then I up-ended the can and cleared the nozzle by spraying until it came out clear.

30 minutes later I applied coat #2, which I would characterize as slightly thicker but still skinny...and cleared the nozzle.

30 minutes later I applied coat #3, which I would characterize as slightly thicker than coat #2...and cleared the nozzle.

It was during coat #4 that things went south. The first three coats went on just fine; smooth and unremarkable. But right at the beginning of the next coat, the paint was coming out all splattery & splotchy. In just a few seconds I had little blisters and scabbies of paint all over my parts. Not impressed.

I contacted Performix, and they suggested that my working environment may have been too humid (and yes - that is a possibility). They also said the minimum temp needed to be 72 degrees (and I know that they were talking about the paint as well as the air, because they suggested I should have sat the can in a bucket of warm water between coats).

And it's possible that my ambient temperature was closer to 70 than 72. It was definitely not warmer than 72, and if the stuff is that temp-sensitive, then I acknowledge that perhaps I would have seen better results in a warmer (and dryer) environment.

$0.02
 
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stang9779

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In my experience Elastiwrap is a lot better product as it's automotive grade product. As PlastiDip was not invented for automotive it is an All Purpose product.
 

ronemca

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I see. Thanks for that.
 

Diablocoastie

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If you put the can in some hot water for about 15-20 mins it will spray smoother and won't be as textured. It will be smooth and look great...
 

Westys10

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When I use plastidip, I keep the cans in a crockpot between coats to keep it smooth. I feel like such a redneck, but it works well. Humidity is a huge factor, much more than temperature. Keeping the cans heated, I dipped at 32°F without issue.
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