Pioneer D-Series upgrade!

[Condor1970]

OK, so I have a 2018 GT base model MT-82. With exception to the Kona Blue paint job, it's the cheapest GT you can get. Mainly because when I was looking for a Mustang, all I knew is I wanted a GT, a stick shift, and Navy Blue. Well, Kona Blue is close enough.

Outside of that, the bells and whistles didn't really interest me.

Anyway, after all the little things I've done, like adding an AEM dry air filter, a sound tube delete, a set of SVE R350 19x10 wheels, and 265/40R19 tires, I finally got around to messing with this rather inadequate base stereo.

So, here's the speakers I got.

- Pioneer TS-D65C for the front.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TSD65C/Pioneer-TS-D65C.html?skipvs=T

- Pioneer TS-D65F for the rear.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TSD65F/Pioneer-TS-D65F.html?skipvs=T


I really wish my OCD didn't kick in, because I get so wrapped up in my projects, I forget to take picks for y'all. However, I think I got the most important ones.

I figured, as long as I'm tearing apart all the paneling to install new speakers, I might as well look at some affordable sound deadening that is lightweight and serviceable. However, I'll start with my speakers first.

I decided on Pioneer D-series speakers for the front and the rear. the front component speakers are listed on Crutchfield as a replacement for the factory speakers. This actually took more work than I thought. The 2-way TS-D65F speakers for the rear are not listed as replacements for the Ford Mustang. This was a bit disheartening, but I figured out why. The TS-D65F speakers have an elevated tweeter that is directional. Because of this, it will impact the rear deck cover.
The nice thing, is that if you're willing to put a little work into a good speaker upgrade, then getting the components for the front, and the 2-ways for the rear is worth it, and I'll show you why.

After removing all the paneling from the rear, along with the side panels over the fender wells, it became clear I would do some sound deadening before putting everything back.

I also realized I needed a proper way to figure out how to deal with my rear deck speakers with elevated adjustable tweeters. I needed to cut some holes in the rear deck cover, and install some dome shaped speaker grills so the tweeters didn't have any obstruction. A disappointment is the 2-way rear speakers do not come with speaker grills. However, the front component speaker kit does come with speaker grills. Voila!!!

To make sure the holes I cut in the rear deck cover were correct, I decided to do this first before even removing the old speakers. To mark my holes to be perfectly centered over the speakers, I took some blue chalk-line chalk, and saturated the foam rings on the factory speakers. I re-installed the rear deck cover, and smacked down on it until it hit the tops of the factory speakers. Once removed, it left a perfect chalk ring where the factory speakers were. I then took a small modelling paint brush, and painted some blue paint around the inside edge to mark exactly where I had to cut. Here ya go!

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[Condor1970]

Next was the speaker installation. This part was easy but time consuming, because I decided I wanted to cannibalize the factory speakers for the rings and the factory plug and wiring. There's lots of YouTube vids on how to do this. I really spent some time on this, because these speakers are fairly pricey at $120 a pair. So, I wanted to do it right. I installed them into the modified rings with some black RTV sealant to prevent rattling, with the screws provided. I then bought some black closed cell foam weather stripping for rings around the upper edges to focus the sound dispersion through the deck cover.

 

[Condor1970]

After installation, I realized the I had to make sure there would never be any issues with the new speaker grills on the rear deck. So, I installed the speaker grills with the supplied screws, but cut them off short with my Dremel since they'll impact the speakers below, and ran some black RTV silicon around the inside edges of the holes to prevent that cheap cardboard like rear deck from fraying or absorbing moisture. Those speaker grills are a permanent install now. But, I think they look GREAT and really set off the fact that this is an upgraded stereo.

 

[Condor1970]

Now, I got so caught up in doing the door speakers, I forgot to take pics. But, I also modified the factory speaker rings to mount the new components into the doors.
I also bought 2 cans of FLEX SEAL CLEAR at Costco for $14, and used 1 can to coat the outer panel of each door with clear rubber to deaden some road noise. Yes, 2 cans for 2 doors (1 can each door, for those mathematically challenged). And I mean the outer panel, not the inner panel. That's where a lot of road noise and vibration gets attenuated from.
Now, on the inner door panel where the speaker mounts, I used some Uxcell 5mm foam to help deaden more sound. I also used Uxcell foam over the rear fender wells, and used some Loctite expanding spray foam in the C-pillars to stop the rattle I had from the right rear C-pillar plastic paneling around the side curtain air bag.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/who-still-has-the-c-pillar-rattle-buzz.124656/

The pillar speakers are also a bit of a hiccup. I just pulled the factory tweeters, and I Dremel'd out the inside of the factory mount to make the new tweeters fit. Then, even though they held in place fairly well, I also hot glued them into place to keep them from shifting.

After all was said and done, I now have much less road noise, and much better speakers as a result.

 

[Condor1970]

And last but not least. I noticed even though my speakers sounded better than factory, they still didn't have much bass from the rear, and sounded anemic.

So, the answer to that was..... Forscan.

I set my ACM blocks 727-01-02 settings to 00xx - 31.

Sounds so much better now. Like a real stereo. In fact, the Pioneer D-series speakers have a low end frequency range of 32hz, I am starting to doubt if I really need to install a sub woofer.

 

[SpArKy]

nice write-up, but on the sound deadening, why didn't you go with the tried and tested butyl mat based approach? i mean, that foam will be good for stopping rattles, but not a lot else. unless you've applied the butyl under the foam but not mentioned it?

 

[Condor1970]

nice write-up, but on the sound deadening, why didn't you go with the tried and tested butyl mat based approach? i mean, that foam will be good for stopping rattles, but not a lot else. unless you've applied the butyl under the foam but not mentioned it?

Well, three things. First, I don't know why people keep saying that using foam doesn't cut down on noise, because it did. A noticeable amount, in fact. It's not a Poly foam, it's a closed cell foam rubber, with excellent noise and temperature insulating properties.
Second, it also helps with ratlles, and made a difference in that department as well. Third, it's very lightweight, and far less expensive than aluminum backed butyl. Overall, it just worked. I don't know what else to say.

This type of foam is a closed cell foam "rubber". It's completely waterproof, and has a similar chemical make up with similar results, only far less weight being a foam with no aluminum backing.
Uxcell foam rubber is super easy to work with. I bought 32sq-ft for $23, and lined my trunk lid, the inside rear fender wells, parts of the rear deck, and the doors, and the whole thing weighs only about 10-12oz. It's super light, and very effective.

I used Flex Seal Clear in the doors, because it is also a rubber base, which deadens sound, and it will never delaminate inside the door panel, even if it gets wet.

 

[SpArKy]

Well, three things. First, I don't know why people keep saying that using foam doesn't cut down on noise, because it did. A noticeable amount, in fact. It's not a Poly foam, it's a closed cell foam rubber, with excellent noise and temperature insulating properties.
Second, it also helps with ratlles, and made a difference in that department as well. Third, it's very lightweight, and far less expensive than aluminum backed butyl. Overall, it just worked. I don't know what else to say.

This type of foam is a closed cell foam "rubber". It's completely waterproof, and has a similar chemical make up with similar results, only far less weight being a foam with no aluminum backing.
Uxcell foam rubber is super easy to work with. I bought 32sq-ft for $23, and lined my trunk lid, the inside rear fender wells, parts of the rear deck, and the doors, and the whole thing weighs only about 10-12oz. It's super light, and very effective.

I used Flex Seal Clear in the doors, because it is also a rubber base, which deadens sound, and it will never delaminate inside the door panel, even if it gets wet.

Can only assume its a different foam to the stuff i used on top of the butyl. If it works i guess that's all that matters.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Where did you purchase the closed cell foam rubber? I’m assuming it’s adhesive backed and can be stuck anywhere? Or do you need to apply 3M spray adhesive to panels and foam first before installing?

 

[Jetnoise]

And last but not least. I noticed even though my speakers sounded better than factory, they still didn't have much bass from the rear, and sounded anemic.

So, the answer to that was..... Forscan.

I set my ACM blocks 727-01-02 settings to 00xx - 31.

Sounds so much better now. Like a real stereo. In fact, the Pioneer D-series speakers have a low end frequency range of 32hz, I am starting to doubt if I really need to install a sub woofer.

New be to forscan but curious did your change effect all the channels or just the rear deck speakers
Thanks

 

[Condor1970]

Where did you purchase the closed cell foam rubber? I’m assuming it’s adhesive backed and can be stuck anywhere? Or do you need to apply 3M spray adhesive to panels and foam first before installing?

Amazon has it, but I think I got mine from Ebay. You can get it in 5mm or 10mm thick.

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-a1704...oam+197&qid=1564457277&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmr2

Keep in mind, the thicker it, the better. It's foam, not solid butyl. However, it is overall much lighter and subsequently more easily damaged because it has no aluminum backing. So, you want to make sure it gets installed somewhere it never gets touched, like under a panel on bare metal. Never put it somewhere like inside the spare tire well.

 

[Condor1970]

New be to forscan but curious did your change effect all the channels or just the rear deck speakers
Thanks

It affects all channels evenly. Basically, it removes the factory programmed bass roll off and clipping at higher power, which is programmed in to prevent from blowing the cheap factory speakers. But good aftermarkets can easily handle it.
I immediately notice a lot more bass coming from the rear.

Also, keep in mind that when I cut holes in the deck to install grills, I opened up that path for sound to escape and fill the cabin. That press board with 1/4" holes and carpeting really muffles the sound. Adding the grills and EQ levelling combined really made it sound so much better.

 

[FreedomPenguin]

It affects all channels evenly. Basically, it removes the factory programmed bass roll off and clipping at higher power, which is programmed in to prevent from blowing the cheap factory speakers. But good aftermarkets can easily handle it.
I immediately notice a lot more bass coming from the rear.

Also, keep in mind that when I cut holes in the deck to install grills, I opened up that path for sound to escape and fill the cabin. That press board with 1/4" holes and carpeting really muffles the sound. Adding the grills and EQ levelling combined really made it sound so much better.

I am using stock speakers + 2 rear JBL gto 629's and my speakers sound amazing with forescan disabling the eq. that said, if they blow the front speakers I will simply toss some heavier duty ones in.

that said- anyone have perfect direct replacement models in the chance they did blow? I really like the oem speakers myself, but if they go, Im not replacing with them to blow again.

 

[Condor1970]

I am using stock speakers + 2 rear JBL gto 629's and my speakers sound amazing with forescan disabling the eq. that said, if they blow the front speakers I will simply toss some heavier duty ones in.

that said- anyone have perfect direct replacement models in the chance they did blow? I really like the oem speakers myself, but if they go, Im not replacing with them to blow again.

Crutchfield has lots of replacement 2-way components that will fit, but almost all require some modding to mount, unless you get the PowerBass speakers.

I got the Pioneer D-series speakers to keep the specs even throughout all four speakers, front and rear. Also, they have a much lower end bass response down to 32Hz, which makes it almost unnecessary to install a sub woofer. All I may need now if I want it louder, is to install an 4 channel AudioControl or SoundStream Stealth mini amp under the dash in the driver foot well area.

With the factory head unit, I was listening to Pink Floyd "Welcome to the Machine", and the bass roll during the intro will almost make the hair on my arms stand up.

Having a speaker with a 32Hz low end is quite satisfying, compared to almost all others that bottom out at 60Hz like the PowerBass and Focals.

 

[StangTime]

I am using stock speakers + 2 rear JBL gto 629's and my speakers sound amazing with forescan disabling the eq. that said, if they blow the front speakers I will simply toss some heavier duty ones in.

that said- anyone have perfect direct replacement models in the chance they did blow? I really like the oem speakers myself, but if they go, Im not replacing with them to blow again.

These are as close to OEM as you will get.
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-GYm6EMs30M6/p_151OE65CFD/PowerBass-OE65C-FD.html
Not 3 way but perfect for the base model.

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