P0018 Code

[natepcbfl]

One may be for the intake side and another for the exhaust side? I really dont want to take it to the dealer right now as replacing these seems like a quick thing and Ford would probably not find any issue(it doesnt happen a lot) and then refuse to work on it like they have in the past.

I am pretty sure all 4 are the same and not designated for intake or exhaust. I dont think there was that much of a change if any to that part for the 18's. When I was saying go to the dealer I was meaning just the part if you take it off or just stopping by to ask what the part number is. I definitely was not suggesting taking it to them to work on, especially for these since its very simple to replace. I wont even let the dealerships around here work on my car with the way they act.

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[Diocletian]

I am pretty sure all 4 are the same and not designated for intake or exhaust. I dont think there was that much of a change if any to that part for the 18's. When I was saying go to the dealer I was meaning just the part if you take it off or just stopping by to ask what the part number is. I definitely was not suggesting taking it to them to work on, especially for these since its very simple to replace. I wont even let the dealerships around here work on my car with the way they act.

Gocha, I will do that. As someone who only has basic tools and maybe intermediate knowledge of working on cars, is it that easy to replace them? I haven't found a solid writeup on the procedure for the 5.0 Gen3, only the 4.6L.

 

[natepcbfl]

Gocha, I will do that. As someone who only has basic tools and maybe intermediate knowledge of working on cars, is it that easy to replace them? I haven't found a solid writeup on the procedure for the 5.0 Gen3, only the 4.6L.

Yea it's pretty simple, I ran into just a couple little piss ya off moments. I would suggest a 1/4" u-join swivel, especially to get at the passenger side rear valve cover bolts. Get a set of looong ring-nose pliers to get the push pin style wire loom holders attached to the back valve covers, I ended up cutting the zip tie on one because I didnt have any ring nose pliers and just couldnt get my hand in there enough to pull it up without damaging the wires. If you have a track pack car take off both of the strut tower braces. Honestly it took me a little while to get everything ripped apart since this was the first time tearing this far into a Coyote but only took me about 45 minutes to put it all back together. Do take care when taking out the VCTS's so you don't drop the ""attached"" black plastic screw retainers and drop them into the head, some of mine stayed on the bolt, some stayed in the hole, one was on the end of the bolt when I pulled one of the VCTS out. Also take care when tightening the VCTS's back up so you dont strip them. I didnt not know the TQ for them so just put a drop of blue thread lock and made them good and snug (fingers crossed).

 

[Cobra Jet]

For future reference, months ago I had posted the Ford SSM and a Ford TSB relating to the 2018-2019 5.0 VCT issues in the TSB sub-forum on here.

I’m attaching them here in this thread for anyone who may need them for Warranty repairs.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Just an FYI - another SSM released for the VCT issues:

SSM 48423

 

[Andrewg]

Are you tuned by Lund by any chance? Spoken to your tuner about this?

I had something similar a few years ago. It was about 2 months after I installed a new clutch and flywheel. All of a sudden started getting P0018 codes despite everything else checking out and doing multiple crank relearns using my ngauge and even got the dealer to do a crank relearn using their software. Code kept coming back every now and then. Mentioned it to Lund and he said some of the early S550s had a slightly different PCM strategy depending on the build date and that this was an easy fix by changing something in the tune. Don't ask me what but a simple tune revision fixed it and never had the issue since.

 

[Dikdawg5.0]

My Mustang has been having this code pop up for a few months now and I'm completely stumped. My SCT shows it is for Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation Bank 2 Sensor A. I was drag racing my car at the time the code first came up. Pass felt good, did rev it to around 7500 RPM. Wasn't until I got back to the pit I noticed the check engine light.
So, I got the car towed home so I could start troubleshooting. From what I understand, bank 2 sensor A is that top (intake) cam on the driver side. So I pulled the driver valve cover to inspect. Everything looked good on the timing system (chains were snug and no exploded pieces anywhere). At that point I thought it may have been a bad sensor. I ordered and installed a new cam position sensor (part #9L8Z-6B288-B). Also did a crank relearn after that install. Code didn't come back on at first, but after a few days, it popped up when I was starting my car one day. I was able to clear that code and it didn't come back on for several days. After I had the code come up again, I ordered and installed a new VCT solenoid for that cam (part #BR3Z-6M280-E) and did another crank relearn. Again, didn't get a code for a bit, but after a few days I got the code on a startup. I was able to clear the code and it didn't come back on after driving about 100 miles. But just a matter of time till I see it again I assume I'll see it again.
So any ideas on what may be happening or what I should try? Car is does have a Paxton supercharger with 3.6" pulley and PBD tune on 93 oct.

Ever find the issue. Same thing here. All self test passed and nothing . Will run great for 30 min then out of the blue run like crap.

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