P0018 Code

[bconnaway]

My Mustang has been having this code pop up for a few months now and I'm completely stumped. My SCT shows it is for Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation Bank 2 Sensor A. I was drag racing my car at the time the code first came up. Pass felt good, did rev it to around 7500 RPM. Wasn't until I got back to the pit I noticed the check engine light.
So, I got the car towed home so I could start troubleshooting. From what I understand, bank 2 sensor A is that top (intake) cam on the driver side. So I pulled the driver valve cover to inspect. Everything looked good on the timing system (chains were snug and no exploded pieces anywhere). At that point I thought it may have been a bad sensor. I ordered and installed a new cam position sensor (part #9L8Z-6B288-B). Also did a crank relearn after that install. Code didn't come back on at first, but after a few days, it popped up when I was starting my car one day. I was able to clear that code and it didn't come back on for several days. After I had the code come up again, I ordered and installed a new VCT solenoid for that cam (part #BR3Z-6M280-E) and did another crank relearn. Again, didn't get a code for a bit, but after a few days I got the code on a startup. I was able to clear the code and it didn't come back on after driving about 100 miles. But just a matter of time till I see it again I assume I'll see it again.
So any ideas on what may be happening or what I should try? Car is does have a Paxton supercharger with 3.6" pulley and PBD tune on 93 oct.

Sponsored

 

[jrsimon27]

You should take it to a dealer.

 

[ugstang17]

It could be a cam phaser. The ECU expects to see the timing tab at a specific time based on positioning being commanded to related prop valve and it does not make it or sees it too early. Many of the old S197 owners that developed phaser issues found the pin in the phaser sheared or bent which can also cause issues. I lost a cam phaser on my 2005 FI setup with cams. Nothing appeared out of the ordinary though the phaser failed internally.

I worked with two guys ringing out the wiring on their S197 systems and on one we were able to isolate an open wire going to one of the cam phaser sensors as I recall. In the other case the wiring and associated electrical devices all verified good. So that only left a tune related issue or a mechanical defect with the phasers.

Sorry I don't have a set of manuals for the S550 yet or I would try to work through the electrical side of the system with you. I'm still up in the air if I am going to keep mine. Just not been happy since I made the swap. I miss my 13/14 setups aside from them not having factory forged internals.

 

[bconnaway]

The phasers are one part of these motors I've never fully understood. So if I need to swap the phasers, I may consider upgrading cams at that point. If I have a phaser problem, would something like the MMR cam lockouts resolve that? Not sure why the internals of the phasers look like and what the lockouts do exactly...

 

[ugstang17]

This is my take on VCT:

Cam phasers delay or advance the opening of the respective cams valve with respect to piston position. With DOHC VCT you can also vary the overlap between intake and exhaust that would otherwise be fixed on a conventional cam. Because the Coyote has DOHC VCT that lope sound that has created goosebumps on the arms of most V8 enthusiasts has no reason to exist because the VCT allows adjustment of the I to E relationship. However some tuners have capitalized on this and generated tunes that create what is known as a ghost cam sound. It has ZERO effect on how the car runs, but like the corny sound tube gives the driver an impression that he/she is running a performance cam. Once RPM advances the cams rephase to normal tuned operation and the lope goes away.

VCT allows the tuner to alter where the power band (the cam has designed in it) comes in at. Race car drivers have done this for decades using a specially designed gears that allows them to change the otherwise fixed point of the mechanical timing relationship between the crank and the cam. The timing chain gear allows this to be changed by loosening, adjusting and then locking back down. Of course each time this needs to be changed it requires pulling the timing cover off again to change it.

VCT performs its function using oil pressure provided via the VCT prop valve. Oil is pumped into the phaser which creates counter pressure against a clock spring and changes the position. The clock spring counters as pressure is removed from the phaser to return position. we played with intake VCT on my 14 to attempt to bring the power band in earlier on to try to achieve better 60 ft times. However it altered drive ability under normal operation so we changed it back.

So once you have max power achieved through air/fuel/timing, you can then determine where in the power band (within reason) you want it to come in. Then under lighter throttle retard it back to achieve better MPG and drive ability as I understand the basics of it.

As for lockouts that would eliminate the cam phasers but not sure how that would play out with a potential failed phaser. Never used them. Another option not to be confused with lockouts are limiters that will limit but not lock out phasing only so far. Again not a fix for a failed phaser.

I hope this is correct for the most part. It may not be 100% accurate as it is a basic understanding I have developed but I believe it is on the right track. And forgive me if I am already providing what you already understand on it. Not trying to impress anyone simply trying to help out. At the same time if there are flaws or parts missing in my general theory that need correcting please ANYONE make correction as I do not wish to provide bum 411 and seek to learn as well.

 

[bconnaway]

I appreciate it! Any and all information is welcome. Sounds like a new set of phasers is the way to go then. From the look of it, there is the normal phaser set and also a Ford High Performance version. Thoughts on each?

 

[bconnaway]

This is what I was asking about. What I assume is the stock one vs the performance one

 

[ugstang17]

Gotcha. Couldn't answer that question. The one thing i can tell you is to not reuse the old phaser bolts. They are a TTY bolt and a one time use. Do NOT attempt to reuse them. Get a second opinion on this issue. Everything IMHO points to a likely mechanical issue within the phaser assembly.

Just out of curiosity, any chance you changed from a 5W## to a 10W## or 20W## vice a 5W## oil just before the pass that seems to point to being the event that led to this symptom? If so you may wish to return to a 5W## oil and see if that helps. There were some cases I read on where guys up graded to a 20W50 and created VCT issues due to the higher viscosity which was not complimentary in working well with the cam phasers on the 3V units. Tech has changed since then but just thought it should be mentioned as sometimes its the oddest thing that causes an intermittent issue to crop up.

 

[bconnaway]

I did change my oil around that time but not to a different weight. Had been running the Motorcraft synthetic blend 5w20. But this last time they didn't have enough, so I got Valvoline Full Synthetic 5w20.

 

[ugstang17]

Nothing to worry about in that case. Just never like to take things for granted. Often in trying to help someone isolate a problem the one thing overlooked ends up biting you in the butt. Mentioning it was just standard check list protocol to eliminate probable faults.

 

[natepcbfl]

I also have the issue of dipping and dying with no codes and I am pretty sure high blood pressure. I am probably going to change out the VCTS just because they are cheap and I hope it fixes it (95 bucks for 4 Ford performance ones). As for the pahsers they are not as cheap and require much more work "it looks like" to swap out. What is it that makes the phaser go bad, how would it be checked and can it be done with just the valve covers off while I'm changing the VCTS? Any help or ideas will be greatly appreciated.

 

[natepcbfl]

I also have the issue of dipping and dying with no codes and I am pretty sure high blood pressure. I am probably going to change out the VCTS just because they are cheap and I hope it fixes it (95 bucks for 4 Ford performance ones). As for the pahsers they are not as cheap and require much more work "it looks like" to swap out. What is it that makes the phaser go bad, how would it be checked and can it be done with just the valve covers off while I'm changing the VCTS? Any help or ideas will be greatly appreciated.

Installed four VCT solenoids Saturday and the idle is rock solid. I honestly dont remember the last time the idle sat so still, it has always wiggled on the gauge a little.

 

[Diocletian]

Installed four VCT solenoids Saturday and the idle is rock solid. I honestly dont remember the last time the idle sat so still, it has always wiggled on the gauge a little.

I’m now pretty much convinced my vct solenoids are causing my idle surging/stalling problem, I’ve tried everything else. I cannot find them online anywhere though, I keep finding the ones you posted but it’s confusing because it states it’s not compatible for a 2018+ 5.0?

 

[natepcbfl]

I’m now pretty much convinced my vct solenoids are causing my idle surging/stalling problem, I’ve tried everything else. I cannot find them online anywhere though, I keep finding the ones you posted but it’s confusing because it states it’s not compatible for a 2018+ 5.0?

Here is the Ford parts site for a 2018. Not sure why they are different prices unless one is stock and one is Ford Performance, both though have the same part number... If your car is not a DD you can always pull one out and check it or better yet carry it to Ford to compare and get the part number, then order it cheaper online! Hope this helps.

https://parts.ford.com/shop/SearchD...solenoid&searchType=&pageSize=12&pageNumber=1

 

[Diocletian]

Here is the Ford parts site for a 2018. Not sure why they are different prices unless one is stock and one is Ford Performance, both though have the same part number... If your car is not a DD you can always pull one out and check it or better yet carry it to Ford to compare and get the part number, then order it cheaper online! Hope this helps.

https://parts.ford.com/shop/SearchD...solenoid&searchType=&pageSize=12&pageNumber=1

One may be for the intake side and another for the exhaust side? I really dont want to take it to the dealer right now as replacing these seems like a quick thing and Ford would probably not find any issue(it doesnt happen a lot) and then refuse to work on it like they have in the past.

Sponsored