Opinions on my 1/4 time please.

[Burnin4]

Your setup has mid 11's at 120 potential, with the right 60ft/decent conditions. So much of the 60ft is controlled by the tune. I worked extensively with my tuner, started off cutting 1.7's, then 1.6's, then 1.5's, now 1.4's, auto/3.15, on the same set of 20" True Forged wheels with 305/35 ET Street II's, 16.5psi. I still have stock shocks and BMR Performance springs, not drag springs.

I've launched my auto setup every which way possible, all of my best 60's come from loading up the stock stall as much as it'll handle without pushing through my the brakes. Listen to my rpms in this first 60ft (1.49) in my vid. You also need to stage as shallow as possible, barely triggering the 2nd light, you want that 2nd light almost flickering, gives you a running start.






Auto + 3.55 + 28" tire is a great combo for bolt-ons, 3rd gear holds till 123mph/7900rpm
Auto + 3.15 + 28" tire is the best for FI, 3rd gear holds till 141mph/7900 rpm

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[Truemen911]

Thanks for all the advice. Trying to think of ways for my 60ft improvements. Does lowering PSI help at all with that? I'm not spinning, I'm thinking my 60ft..

 

[Burnin4]

Thanks for all the advice. Trying to think of ways for my 60ft improvements. Does lowering PSI help at all with that? I'm not spinning, I'm thinking my 60ft..

If you're not spinning then you're fine. Load that converter up and put her to the floor, if she spins then drop your psi. You shouldn't need to go under 18psi unless you are spinning.

 

[Truemen911]

If you're not spinning then you're fine. Load that converter up and put her to the floor, if she spins then drop your psi. You shouldn't need to go under 18psi unless you are spinning.

Now I don't have a converter and I start breaking loose above 2200 rpm on the line, my tires were at about 33 psi

 

[higdominator]

That's about average DA there for the season, it's only going to get worse as Spring moves in.

Also not a bad 60 for the track in it's current shape. I was still unable to launch under my normal boost on the brake, there's not enough rubber down to really hammer the car with radials yet. It'll get better.

Overall it looks good for the conditions. I was fighting my car all day. The inconsistent line was giving me fits getting the car out of the hole and this car has to 60 well to run. I clicked off a few 11.9's but it should have been much faster. Oh well, such is life!

You can probably take those DR's down to around 22psi and see how much you can stack on that converter. On the warmer days I start at 22 and work from there.

If you can make it the OMC is doing a track day on the 25th. If you see the white 2015 that sounds like a hive of pissed off bees that'd be me.

 

[Burnin4]

Now I don't have a converter and I start breaking loose above 2200 rpm on the line, my tires were at about 33 psi

33psi is too much, start at 20psi and work your way down. I go right to 16.5psi on my setup, doesn't spin at all unless I don't get a good burnout or the track prep is poor. keep your rpms under/around 2k so that your car isn't trying to pull through the brakes, then mash it to the floor and release the brake when you see green. I also disengage my Active Handling.traction control, and put it in Track Mode. You should be doing a burnout till you see white smoke, the more the better.

 

[bluebeastsrt]

The DA is what it is OP. Not everyone is lucky enough to race at Atco or Cecil county. You have to launch hard to get the most out of those drag radials. Drop the pressure till the sixty stops improving. I will drop pressure all the way down to 15psi on a really cold evening. I disagree about the burnout however. The idea of the burnout is to heat the tires not to create a 30 foot cloud of smoke in the air. A 4 to 6 second burn out should be plenty.

 

[Burnin4]

4-6 seconds is enough to create smoke, which is what I advised, although a few extra seconds is definitely better then bordering with an inefficient burnout, 2-3 seconds.

 

[15orange5.0]

I ran a 12.33 with bassani cat back , sct programmer sct tune , and air aid intake ...I now have stainless works headers with no cats and a Lund tune if I run anywhere in the 12's I will be very disappointed

 

[bluebeastsrt]

I ran a 12.33 with bassani cat back , sct programmer sct tune , and air aid intake ...I now have stainless works headers with no cats and a Lund tune if I run anywhere in the 12's I will be very disappointed

congratulations.

 

[Truemen911]

Alright, see I was thinking that since I'm not spinning I didn't need to lower my psi anymore lol. I will try that next time and go lower. Didn't know lower psi had more effect then just dealing with spinning

 

[NicksRubyRed15GT]

do yourself a favor and buy a converter. Best mod you will do by far. There is plenty left in they setup you have. I had SP headers, CAI and a Lund tune and went 7.69'[email protected] in 1200' DA. I now have a circle d 4c and ran a 7.3@95 3 weeks ago in 1700' DA. I have made as much as 97.17 in good air with the same setup you have

 

[zaquhree]

Footbrake at 1500 and try to snap the gaz just before leaving the brake = 1.72 of 60'

This is how I cut 1.7x 60' on the stock stall, sometimes I'd snap it at 2,000+ if it was sticky

 

[LETHAL]

Everybody remember the days when a 11 sec slip was just a super charger and bolt-ons away with the fox and SN cars...

Long live the Coyote 5.0

 

[Truemen911]

Footbrake at 1500 and try to snap the gaz just before leaving the brake = 1.72 of 60'

Gonna try this Friday, and lower my PSI to about 20 and start there.

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