Opg install, Whats all required?

[Sal GT]

I cut mine off and bought a new one for the install. The correct way is to have a strap go under it as you rotate the crank and the slide it off but if you are already past timing chain removal, that's not really optimal to do. Therefore, most I've read have cut it like I did.

Walked it off with tie straps. Now, how to re install??

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[db252]

Same way with tie straps.

 

[Roh92cp]

Doing this now and dont know how to remove ac belt? How
The hell does it come off?

They are stretch belts designed to be walked on and off. I've done it 6 times on the same belt by hand. Just turn the motor over at the crank bolt with one hand and pull it off walking it off the edge as you go. I found it easier to put it on the damper and walking it off or on the A/C pulley.

 

[Bartly]

This is one fine thread. Props to the OP for starting it and all the contributors. So I have a question (or two).

Whats makes the most sense as far as jacking the car up or not? Do you start with it on the ground and then jack it up mid process or just leave it on the ground. Wasn't sure. Sometimes it is easier for me to lie on my back and work on things than crouch over. Just seeing what is the norm for installing these.

So you guys are saying with the ProCharger Stage 2, the kit comes with a longer crank bolt that can be used to snug the main crank pulley up and then removed and used to seat/torque the SC pulley to the crank gear? Just trying to come up to speed.

 

[FIVE_LITER]

I did my install without jacking the car up.

 

[Bartly]

I did my install without jacking the car up.

Thanks, am not really sure what the access is or where you have to reach. How was that hard to reach the oil pickup bolt that everyone hates accessing? Would have been easier if you could get under the engine? Sorry, noobie question, but I haven't been there or done that yet.

Was actually wondering about the Procharger install as well, wasn't sure if Jacking it up made things easier.

 

[Roh92cp]

It's not hard to reach it with the car on the ground. I made a curved wrench for reinstall of that inner 10mm bolt, but you can do without. The hardest part is starting that inner bolt, getting it to catch the first threads.

 

[Sal GT]

It's not hard to reach it with the car on the ground. I made a curved wrench for reinstall of that inner 10mm bolt, but you can do without. The hardest part is starting that inner bolt, getting it to catch the first threads.

When i reinstalled, i place blue shop rags under the pump to catch anything that could accidentally fall in. I cut a piece of electrical tape about 8" long and poked the first bolt though the end and used the tape as a leash and it helped start the inner bolt. Went on in 10 seconds and once it was half way threaded i pulled he tape. Did the same with the easy bolt.

 

[Sal GT]

Also, spin the motor 4 full revolutions using the crank bolt to make sure nothing is hitting anything (svt performance forums) - IMPORTANT.

For some reason my RH chain slipped off half way through the first revolution

 

[Sal GT]

They are stretch belts designed to be walked on and off. I've done it 6 times on the same belt by hand. Just turn the motor over at the crank bolt with one hand and pull it off walking it off the edge as you go. I found it easier to put it on the damper and walking it off or on the A/C pulley.

So, it took me an hour to walk the belt back on and with all my attempts I ended up damaging 1 rib of the belt about an inch long. The belt is installed, should I replace it with a new one? I really don't want to mess with it unless I have to, thoughts?

 

[PC 2015]

So, it took me an hour to walk the belt back on and with all my attempts I ended up damaging 1 rib of the belt about an inch long. The belt is installed, should I replace it with a new one? I really don't want to mess with it unless I have to, thoughts?

The same thing happened to me and I did replacie it not because it didn't work. But just because I couldn't leave my car that way not after spending all the money and time not only for the car but for all the upgrades as well.

 

[Bartly]

So say a guy wanted to install the OPG and CG mid-process of installing his supercharger (ProCharger in my case) and test run his engine prior to the SC install. That would mean leaving the factory tune installed and having the front end buttoned up with the accessory belts all routed, factory plugs installed, most likely have the radiator and antifreeze still all hooked up and filled. Are there any "gotchas" with this plan? Is there room in front of the crank bolt for a normal size impact driver with the radiator installed. Anyone test run theirs prior to installing the supercharger like this and have any tips/tricks?

One more question, when rotating the crank for aligning the chains and such, are you guys pulling the spark plugs to make turning it easier?

 

[db252]

So say a guy wanted to install the OPG and CG mid-process of installing his supercharger (ProCharger in my case) and test run his engine prior to the SC install. That would mean leaving the factory tune installed and having the front end buttoned up with the accessory belts all routed, factory plugs installed, most likely have the radiator and antifreeze still all hooked up and filled. Are there any "gotchas" with this plan? Is there room in front of the crank bolt for a normal size impact driver with the radiator installed. Anyone test run theirs prior to installing the supercharger like this and have any tips/tricks?

One more question, when rotating the crank for aligning the chains and such, are you guys pulling the spark plugs to make turning it easier?

There is no 'gotchas' per se but more why would you go through that? Do it and be done with it.
Yes on the crank bolt as far as leaving the radiator in but you'll want to remove the fans which is two bolts and an electrical connection.
I have no comment on the test run question as I don't see the point, respectfully.
I did pull the plugs for crank rotation which made rotating the crank very easy.

 

[Roh92cp]

So say a guy wanted to install the OPG and CG mid-process of installing his supercharger (ProCharger in my case) and test run his engine prior to the SC install. That would mean leaving the factory tune installed and having the front end buttoned up with the accessory belts all routed, factory plugs installed, most likely have the radiator and antifreeze still all hooked up and filled. Are there any "gotchas" with this plan? Is there room in front of the crank bolt for a normal size impact driver with the radiator installed. Anyone test run theirs prior to installing the supercharger like this and have any tips/tricks?

One more question, when rotating the crank for aligning the chains and such, are you guys pulling the spark plugs to make turning it easier?

No reason why you can't, and would be a good thing to know how the car runs with OPG instal first. But many and most shops instal it all at once. I did change OPG one time with plugs in, no problem just harder to turn over. If you have a short impact it's possible, but also not reason you can't turn the crank bolt by hand.

 

[Bartly]

There is no 'gotchas' per se but more why would you go through that? Do it and be done with it.
Yes on the crank bolt as far as leaving the radiator in but you'll want to remove the fans which is two bolts and an electrical connection.
I have no comment on the test run question as I don't see the point, respectfully.
I did pull the plugs for crank rotation which made rotating the crank very easy.

Thanks for the info. Yeah, the more I thought about it, the more I thought what a hassle to have to getting back to running condition just to resume the install. Just haven't been there or done that so wasn't entirely sure what backwards steps I'd have to take. Read in the ProCharger instructions it's suggested to go with one step colder plugs, might be the perfect time to pull the plugs out for the turning the crank part. Cool on the room for an impact, thanks.

No reason why you can't, and would be a good thing to know how the car runs with OPG instal first. But many and most shops instal it all at once. I did change OPG one time with plugs in, no problem just harder to turn over. If you have a short impact it's possible, but also not reason you can't turn the crank bolt by hand.

Thanks for your take on it. Yeah, would be a good feeling of confidence to hear it run before proceeding with the SC install. Just still absorbing what all I have ahead of me.

So here's another question. I know this thead is a "what's needed" and I've been asking "how too" stuff. Sorry just seems like a good time to ask, hope the OP doesn't mind. So...
During the timing procedure it has only one chain installed and the crank gets rotated. Wouldn't this cause the pistons to contact the valves on the disconnected cam side? Couldn't find clear definition on our engines being non-interference design, is it? Or am I missing something?

There is not really a good image showing where to put the silicone on the front timing cover. Mentions there is a gasket, but have read it's more of a big o-ring or rubber strip? If it's o-ring, don't recall ever really coating o-rings with silicone, thought they were always oiled when using them as a seal. Do I coat this "gasket" with silicone?

Thanks again for the replies.

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