Oil separators / catch cans

[FPV GT]

The UPR one I fitted on the weekend doesn't unscrew, it has a bolt in the bottom which you remove to drain. It's the larger one, the one that bolts onto the front of the car.

This is the one: http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-billet-plug-n-play-catch-can-separator-15-scb.html

Yes it does unscrew.
But you must disconnect and remove the can from the mount.

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[Aus-MustangGT]

I'd be in for a group buy of the upr. Although we haven't had a group buy work out yet on here.. It does require a fair bit of work from someone locally though obviously, so understandable.

We have had one, just waiting for the clutch springs to come in

 

[davidhes]

We have had one, just waiting for the clutch springs to come in

Ah ok fair enough. The other 2 that were started never really eventuated. Good you guys got one sorted.

 

[Jack79]

Interesting read... thats a lot of oil being caught before it hits the valves..

Is there any issues with the Ford Racing Oil-Air Separator for AU models..

Looks OEM and has factory fittings...

http://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-racing-oil-air-separator-passenger-side-kit-5-0l-2011-2016-5-2l-2015-2016/p/M6766A50/

 

[MaxQ]

catch can

Anyone planning on ordering the UPR catch can and willing to split the postage / do a bulk order?

Hi Knaps, I,d be in a group buy for UPR Item #5030-98

 

[peterdee]

Yes it does unscrew.
But you must disconnect and remove the can from the mount.

Mine doesn't. I have to disconnect it, then I have to remove a bolt from the bottom to drain it. This was confirmed by UPRSteve:

With the 5030 can, you do not take it apart. All you need to do to drain it is remove the bottom plug. Theirs no need to clean it out with our design. This can was not designed to be pulled apart.

 

[dreabc]

I have this one. http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-billet-plug-n-play-catch-can-separator-15-sc.html

It can be unscrewed from the bottom but im not sure why.

 

[peterdee]

I have this one. http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-billet-plug-n-play-catch-can-separator-15-sc.html

It can be unscrewed from the bottom but im not sure why.

I think mine is a bigger can, and it bolts onto the front of the car. It has longer hoses too (obviously). Installation took me 15 minutes because of that.

Your can is smaller and I bet installation took 15 seconds

 

[dreabc]

Your can is smaller and I bet installation took 15 seconds

I havent done it yet, but ill find a way to make it take 30 mins, im hopeless with this stuff. :doh: Thankfully this does look super simple.

 

[peterdee]

I havent done it yet, but ill find a way to make it take 30 mins, im hopeless with this stuff. :doh: Thankfully this does look super simple.

Lots of videos on the net how to do it. I too am 'challenged' this way, but I still managed to do mine.

I did have my son help me though

 

[mwizz]

Interesting read... thats a lot of oil being caught before it hits the valves..

Is there any issues with the Ford Racing Oil-Air Separator for AU models..

Looks OEM and has factory fittings...

http://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-racing-oil-air-separator-passenger-side-kit-5-0l-2011-2016-5-2l-2015-2016/p/M6766A50/

I'm looking at one of these as well. Found it cheaper for $134.47 at Levittownfordsupercenter.com but need to compare shipping

 

[UPRSteve]

I just want to thank you all for your Catch Can orders. We are doing our best to get them built and shipped out to you.

Cheers!!

 

[G RUSH]

Dreabc, the hose with the check valve in it goes towards the intake, ie after the can. That part is directional.
As to the can itself, there are no markings, but Upr say that if you install it as it is supplied with the check valve on the intake manifold side then it will be orientated correctly. Upon opening the can and looking at the flow, there is a difference in the airpath. I am going to contact Upr to ask if that makes any difference. I am sure it would be marked if it needed to be connected to the hoses in a particular direction.

Hi Bob

Did you hear back about this orientation of can query?

I'll be installing mine today and I don't think i pulled off both hoses or swapped em, but I do remember pulling one of them off to have a look.

Cheers
Art

 

[Bobsp12]

Hi Bob

Did you hear back about this orientation of can query?

I'll be installing mine today and I don't think i pulled off both hoses or swapped em, but I do remember pulling one of them off to have a look.

Cheers
Art

G RUSH, Steve fom UPR sorted the orientation out for me. UPR say that if you fit it as supplied, then everything will be correctly oriented. If anybody else is like me, then they would have had it completely pulled apart about thirty seconds after opening the parcel.

The obvious parts are the hoses I guess. The plain hose goes from the valve/coil cover to the canister. The hose with the check valve in it goes from the canister to the intake manifold. The check valve should have the arrow on it pointing toward the intake manifold. If you cant see the arrow, blow through the hose.... you should be able to blow freely towards the intake manifold, away from the canister and not be able to blow back from the intake manifold side. Its purpose is to stop reverse flow from the intake manifold back into the canister.
If you have a gray line on one of your canister fittings, then that one goes to the clean side, ie the outlet of the canister, connecting to the hose that goes to the inlet manifold.
If like mine, there are no markings on the fittings, then the fitting that goes to the clean side (inlet manifold) is the one that is screwed into the c shaped machining inside the lid of the canister. If you have a look inside the canister top, you can see that about 80% of the top has been milled out. A fitting is screwed into that milled out section and another one into the part that is not machined. As above, the one that is in the machined out section is the clean side of the canister.
Sorry about the long winded description...just making sure I cover all bases for everyone...a lot of it is pretty obvious, but best to get it right.
The canister and hoses are well made units, looking very oem. To be honest, they look better than oem, because the stock hose that you remove is pretty average.
The only downside I can find is that some simple instructions regarding orientation should be included. I dont think an a4 photocopied piece of paper would break the bank.

 

[G RUSH]

G RUSH, Steve fom UPR sorted the orientation out for me. UPR say that if you fit it as supplied, then everything will be correctly oriented. If anybody else is like me, then they would have had it completely pulled apart about thirty seconds after opening the parcel.

The obvious parts are the hoses I guess. The plain hose goes from the valve/coil cover to the canister. The hose with the check valve in it goes from the canister to the intake manifold. The check valve should have the arrow on it pointing toward the intake manifold. If you cant see the arrow, blow through the hose.... you should be able to blow freely towards the intake manifold, away from the canister and not be able to blow back from the intake manifold side. Its purpose is to stop reverse flow from the intake manifold back into the canister.
If you have a gray line on one of your canister fittings, then that one goes to the clean side, ie the outlet of the canister, connecting to the hose that goes to the inlet manifold.
If like mine, there are no markings on the fittings, then the fitting that goes to the clean side (inlet manifold) is the one that is screwed into the c shaped machining inside the lid of the canister. If you have a look inside the canister top, you can see that about 80% of the top has been milled out. A fitting is screwed into that milled out section and another one into the part that is not machined. As above, the one that is in the machined out section is the clean side of the canister.
Sorry about the long winded description...just making sure I cover all bases for everyone...a lot of it is pretty obvious, but best to get it right.
The canister and hoses are well made units, looking very oem. To be honest, they look better than oem, because the stock hose that you remove is pretty average.
The only downside I can find is that some simple instructions regarding orientation shouuld be included. I dont think an a4 photocopied piece of paper would break the bank.

Thanks Bob!

I'm exactly the same, I like to pull everything apart. Except in my case I can't remember if I pulled off both or just one at a time haha

I'll have a good look see.

My plans tonight: pick up car from dealer, gently head to folks who live nearby, check over car there, install catch can, go run the bastard in.

So, thanks for the tip!

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