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Oil change question

MAV

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It would not surprise me if the original Motorcraft oil had begun to lose its rated viscosity by 1100 miles, which would explain why the new oil had higher pressure when cold.
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wildcatgoal

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My oil pressure did not change with my Ford Racing catch can, at least in any way I'd notice. After 1K miles, just about all oils will "look dirty". It's been circulating through an "explosion pump" for 1K miles... if it's not the same color as it was coming from the can, that's a sign it's doing it's job, not necessarily a sign it's gone bad.
 

Jubilex

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So who's going to make a picture-heavy oil change how-to tutorial?
Ok I'll bite but no pictures. Last night's oil change was first I've ever done. So I watched this video which is very good:

[ame]

And I went out and bought some stuff:

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-steel-jack-stands-61196.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/15-ton-compact-aluminum-racing-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-60569.html
(Didn't figure ramps would be possible because of the splitter low profile)

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...N0026_-1_4314&categoryRedirect=N0026&pt=N0026
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d..._-1&categoryRedirect=N0026&pt=N0026&ppt=C0166

Note that drain pan was awesome, oversized and long so you don't have to guess where oil will spill/spray out towards.

I also bought the filter along with a spare drain plug at ford dealer. Drain plug was just for security / just in case. I figure 6 bucks, why not. I am just keeping as spare.
Oil Filter PN: FL-2069-ST
Drain Plug PN: BC3Z-6730-A

I also bought one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/2-inch-to-4-1-4-quarter-inch-oil-filter-wrench-36778.html

The tool worked great removing the old filter, everyone has complained about how hard it was to turn but, although it wasn't cake, it started turning almost right away. The tool butchered the filter to no end tho so I did not use it to install the new filter (just hand tightened as tight as i could). I would recommend one of the hat type sprocket attachment thingys instead.

Anyway, no surprises, no gotchas. took 10 quarts of oil as expected. I was paranoid as hell being under my car tho as a first timer. Be sure you follow all safety precautions!!!
 

Bossing

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The funny thing is... I actually enjoy changing the oil in the GT350. Not so much in my other cars. Especiafukinlly in my RAM w/ the Hemi!
 

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Old Car Guy

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No.....

No GT350 as yet, but went down to my Ford Dealer and picked up the five Oil Filter I ordered for the 350.. More stuff on the way for my 350... :ford: :cheers: :thumbsup: John
 
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Hack

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The funny thing is... I actually enjoy changing the oil in the GT350. Not so much in my other cars. Especiafukinlly in my RAM w/ the Hemi!
Huh. I usually enjoy changing oil in a pickup or SUV more, because I don't have to jack up the car and quarters aren't so tight.
 

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Huh. I usually enjoy changing oil in a pickup or SUV more, because I don't have to jack up the car and quarters aren't so tight.
It's not that... it's because the location of the oil filter in mine is right above the 4wd axle and steering plumbing, etc... I have to be a contortionist to first spin off the filter but worst is the oil drips down everywhere. PITA! I gotta try the plastic bag trick next time.
 

Westfalia

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Yup... scary at first isn't it? Good idea to get a couple of spares... I'l do so since I change my oil often like every 1k miles.
Huh? 1K intervals?? Don't you think that is a waste of money and resources? Are you running synthetic?
 

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Huh? 1K intervals?? Don't you think that is a waste of money and resources? Are you running synthetic?
You may or may not know... I track my cars at least once a month. Sometimes I even change oil & filter after every 2nd or no more than 3rd event.... especially if back-to-back. And yes full synthetic of course.
 

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Westfalia

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You may or may not know... I track my cars at least once a month. Sometimes I even change oil & filter after every 2nd or no more than 3rd event.... especially if back-to-back. And yes full synthetic of course.
No I did not. Very new here. With that in mind, it makes sense.
 

Rainier42

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Couple questions about the oil drain plug so I know what to expect:

1. Is it threaded or is it a twist and lock?

2. Does it come off completely?

Thanks.
 

autobahnGT350

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Who does their own oil changes when a warranty exists?

Question? This will probably be more related to those who have a service plan and allow the dealer to do the oil changes according to the service schedule.
If you are not racing or seeing extended track use, why not let the dealer do the oil change for warranty purposes? I thought the dealer or a certified oil change shop has to do the oil change and stamp your warranty book. Can you stamp your own book at the appropriate oil change interval? ;)

Which brings me to another question? What is the average service interval 9no track uses) for the GT350? I am looking at purchasing the service plan and I am eyeballing the 10,000 mile service interval. Again, racing or extended track use will negate any normal service plans, and changing your oil more frequently is totally warranted to preserve the engine if you are racing. I would change my own oil as well if I was racing; however, not now, but in the future for sure...I can clearly see the apex ahead, that Porsche 911 is right on target, haha.

What would be the first oil change interval if one is not racing and allowing the dealer to do it, or do it earlier, say 500 or 1000 miles, to ensure we maintain the warranty. Thanks in advance.
 

GT_Dave

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Couple questions about the oil drain plug so I know what to expect:

1. Is it threaded or is it a twist and lock?

2. Does it come off completely?

Thanks.
The plug is a plastic twist and lock with an O-Ring and is totally reusable.
It comes completely out and is probably one of the easiest and neatest (as in no mess) drain plugs I ever came across.

Now the filter is a different story - it is one of the worst change items I have come across.
 

GT_Dave

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Question? What would be the first oil change interval if one is not racing and allowing the dealer to do it, or do it earlier, say 500 or 1000 miles, to ensure we maintain the warranty. Thanks in advance.
Lots of opinions on this, I changed mine at 1100 miles after a lot of my driving was in 20 - 30 degree temps. Ford recommends more frequent changes in those extremes and for a 1st change, it looked OK, was a slight bit dirty, like it could have gone another 5K miles.
I think the initial contamination on the Voodoo engine will be different from what is normally experienced due to the ceramic coating on the cylinders will shed less than cast iron sleeves and the piston rings in this engine are fit with much less tension than a normal engine. The bearings should not be loosing any material.
I check with a friend of mine that develops engines for Navistar. According to him this engine should go 5K miles before it needs a 1st oil change under normal driving. It all boils down to peace of mind for the owner and an oil change is still fairly cheap insurance on this engine (about 5x $$ for a normal car).

One thing I did notice . . . after the oil change I was getting a much greater range in oil pressure readings.
Before the change: idle would be at 75 psi, higher revs would be at 90-100 psi.
After the oil change: idle is at 60-65 psi, higher revs are now at 110 psi.
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