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Oil change question

wildcatgoal

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I take off filters with a big plastic bag over it and use the bag to catch the oil. Only vehicle this hasn't worked on is a Harley.
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what kind of mess was it when performing the oil change ??
For me, a big one as I unscrewed the oil filter too quickly and was cleaning oil out of the belly pan for awhile.

The second time, and knowing what I would need, it was a 20 minute affair.

Also, as Bossing stated, try and get a fluted wrench for the first oil change at least. The torque on the filter is well more than the 22 lb-ft advised.
 
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That should fit just fine. The distance from the filter to the inspection cover is not that far

Got mine done with minimal fuss. Took way longer than expected due to unpreparedness. Save yourself the headache and follow everyone else's advice.

1)give yourself adequate space to work under the car
2)have a container that can hold the 10qt's and wont splash from the force of fluid exiting
3)have the proper oil filter adapter/wrench that won't slip since the factory one is on super tight
4)have a method of catching the oil released from the filter since you have limited space and will spend 20 mins getting any dropped in the air deflector

Next time around this 2 hour job will take 30 minutes
 

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The last 4 new filters I have changed on Fords are always cranked on there so hard I nearly destroy it with my filter wrench taking it off. Thumb still hurts from my g/f's Fusion over a month ago.
 

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For me, a big one as I unscrewed the oil filter too quickly and was cleaning oil out of the belly pan for awhile.

The second time, and knowing what I would need, it was a 20 minute affair.

Also, as Bossing stated, try and get a fluted wrench for the first oil change at least. The torque on the filter is well more than the 22 lb-ft advised.
I'm sure you know this, but if you torque something to 22 ft-lbs, the removal torque is always going to be greater than 22 ft-lbs. And.. the longer that something is left in position and not disturbed, the higher the removal torque will probably be.
 

wildcatgoal

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Get K&N filters and use a socket, all problems solved.

Or get the appropriate filter wrench for Motorcraft filters.

Strap tools are obsolete.
 

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How about sucking the oil out of the dipstick tube? I was skeptical about this process until I saw the results: damn near no dirty oil left in the pan. It's now how I change the oil in all my cars (though my wife's new Volvo XC90 has no dipstick tube).

The problem with using just a drain plug is that there's typically a boss for the plug that is higher than the interior bottom of the pan. As such, a non-trivial amount of oil is left in the pan even though none flows out the drain hole.

The suction method uses a tube that touches the very bottom of the oil pan and gets out almost every last drop. On several cars I've drained the oil with through the drain hole until it stopped, but drained another ~0.5 quarts via vacuum.

Ultimately it depends on the design of the oil pan... Which I have not seen.
 

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I did need 2 oil pans to hold all the oil. It also took me a while to figure out the drain plug, but once I did I found it a pretty good design.

The worst part was that it took me about 2 hours just to remove the oil filter! By the time I got it off most of the oil had already drained from the pan. I didn't have a mess near the filter at all.
 

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The oil filter is the worst. I was a told a story that said they had spun off oil filters in testing on more than one occasion. The solution being, MOAR TORQUE.
 
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How about sucking the oil out of the dipstick tube? I was skeptical about this process until I saw the results: damn near no dirty oil left in the pan. It's now how I change the oil in all my cars (though my wife's new Volvo XC90 has no dipstick tube).

The problem with using just a drain plug is that there's typically a boss for the plug that is higher than the interior bottom of the pan. As such, a non-trivial amount of oil is left in the pan even though none flows out the drain hole.

The suction method uses a tube that touches the very bottom of the oil pan and gets out almost every last drop. On several cars I've drained the oil with through the drain hole until it stopped, but drained another ~0.5 quarts via vacuum.

Ultimately it depends on the design of the oil pan... Which I have not seen.
The plug is at the rear of the pan at the lowest point. With the car jacked up at an angle you will have the fluid exiting from the lowest point in the system. It is a pretty good design
 

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Changed my oil last night (1100miles). Oil coming out looked really dirty. Amsoil 5w50 signature series went back in. All went smoothly.

One thing I noticed is it seems like my oil pressure is higher than it used to be when cold. Around 125 and goes higher on throttle. I do not remember it being that way before the oil change.

I also installed the UPR catch can at same time so unsure if that had an affect.
 

Old Car Guy

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Changed my oil last night (1100miles). Oil coming out looked really dirty. Amsoil 5w50 signature series went back in. All went smoothly.

One thing I noticed is it seems like my oil pressure is higher than it used to be when cold. Around 125 and goes higher on throttle. I do not remember it being that way before the oil change.

I also installed the UPR catch can at same time so unsure if that had an affect.
Do you think maybe you broke it.... Ha! Ha! I'm sure that you did not.. :cheers: John
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