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Ohlins road&track question

Bullit69

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Try it as delivered first. Find a good driving loop that lets you repeat various scenarios in a short amount of time. Say 5-10 minutes per lap.

Then start making adjustments. Best to do just one end or the other. Minimum change 3 clicks.

Try it tighter, then looser and back to base. Which was better?

Take notes and write it down.
That’s the one thing I kinda dreaded. I’ll have to play with settings to fine tune the suspension. Thanks for the input. I didn’t have an idea how to gradually star stiffing it up to find my sweet spot.

It took forever to get the Ohlins coilovers. It took a month to finally get them.
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TeeLew

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Delrin rear subframe bushings will be fairly bad on NVH, similar to AL. BMR makes a polyurethane kit that works well and won't drive you too crazy on the street.
 

Bullit69

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Delrin rear subframe bushings will be fairly bad on NVH, similar to AL. BMR makes a polyurethane kit that works well and won't drive you too crazy on the street.
Thank you my brotha! Dully noted. That’s the reason I did not go with aluminum. So, I’ll go with Polyurethane for BMR.
 

TeeLew

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Thank you my brotha! Dully noted. That’s the reason I did not go with aluminum. So, I’ll go with Polyurethane for BMR.
It's always a good day when you get to work on your car with a saw-all, lol!
 

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Biggsy

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One thing to note is that the front strut holes are slotted. You have camber plates and camber bolts. The slot on the strut and the camber bolts are adjusting the camber at the same point. So you have camber adjustment (camber plates) on top of camber adjustment(strut hole) on top of camber adjustment(camber bolt).

Personally I would not do the camber bolts. You will want to adjust the camber from the plates before adjusting at the strut. I had a camber bolt slip on me and it made the inner wheel lip contact the strut. Left a nice silver ring(black wheels). I went back to OEM. I now have MCS and use camber locks to prevent the bolt from slipping in the slot.

if the strut holes are not slotted then ignore me lol
 

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Yeah I’ve noted that caveat, initially o was going to purchase control arms from a 2015 and replace the bushings also…

But I didn’t, but the ship is well aware of what they have to do. I have a tutorial from Vorahlog. They said it’d be no problem.
 

Bullit69

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One thing to note is that the front strut holes are slotted. You have camber plates and camber bolts. The slot on the strut and the camber bolts are adjusting the camber at the same point. So you have camber adjustment (camber plates) on top of camber adjustment(strut hole) on top of camber adjustment(camber bolt).

Personally I would not do the camber bolts. You will want to adjust the camber from the plates before adjusting at the strut. I had a camber bolt slip on me and it made the inner wheel lip contact the strut. Left a nice silver ring(black wheels). I went back to OEM. I now have MCS and use camber locks to prevent the bolt from slipping in the slot.

if the strut holes are not slotted then ignore me lol
Thank you for that info. I greatly appreciate it. I’ll be sure to mention that to the shop. Excuse my ignorance, what is MCS ? How about camber locks ? I’ve been trying to anticipate any issues to look out for and have all components ready to go.
 

Biggsy

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Thank you for that info. I greatly appreciate it. I’ll be sure to mention that to the shop. Excuse my ignorance, what is MCS ? How about camber locks ? I’ve been trying to anticipate any issues to look out for and have all components ready to go.
MCS (Motion Control suspension) is another brand of coilovers.

IMG_4958.jpeg


camber locks fill in the gap in the slotted strut hole to prevent movement or the bolt slipping. With slotted holes, the bolt relies on friction to remain in place.
IMG_5339.jpeg

IMG_5337.jpeg

IMG_5344.jpeg
 

Bullit69

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MCS (Motion Control suspension) is another brand of coilovers.

IMG_4958.jpeg


camber locks fill in the gap in the slotted strut hole to prevent movement or the bolt slipping. With slotted holes, the bolt relies on friction to remain in place.
IMG_5339.jpeg

IMG_5337.jpeg

IMG_5344.jpeg
Those coil overs are sweet! How do like em, do you use em on the street also or strictly for tracking.
Are you also using camber locks of the struts?

Where can I purchase the camber locks.
 

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Biggsy

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Those coil overs are sweet! How do like em, do you use em on the street also or strictly for tracking.
Are you also using camber locks of the struts?

Where can I purchase the camber locks.
I am turning my car into 90% track car. Unfortunately right after install and alignment back in April, I found low compression in cylinder 8 so I’m in the middle of engine rebuild. Don’t have much feedback right now but hope to have something by November.

I designed the camber locks myself using CAD and found someone to cut them. If you don’t track your car it may not be necessary as it won’t be seeing the same loads. You just just mark where the bolt is and keep an eye during wheel changes or service.
 

TeeLew

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I designed the camber locks myself using CAD and found someone to cut them. If you don’t track your car it may not be necessary as it won’t be seeing the same loads. You just just mark where the bolt is and keep an eye during wheel changes or service.
They look similar to the the offset upper A-arm slugs you can get for stock car racing. It's a good idea. Well done.
 

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They look similar to the the offset upper A-arm slugs you can get for stock car racing. It's a good idea. Well done.
Thank ya kindly sir!

I know Cortex sells them with their kit. Someone told me that they witnessed someone with coilovers with slotted holes end up messing up their car because a bolt slipped. Other things could’ve been at play but at least I have a peace of mind pertaining to that.
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