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Evil Minion

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So the sync module stays in but is bypassed. I imagine you can just take it out if you want, or is there something that does connect to it? Also, this unit has its own amp/connection box. It doesn't look like that box has mounting screw holes. Does it just float freely where the CD player used to be?
So does anyone know if that sync module can just be fully removed?

And is there a way to mount the box behind the screen? Or will it just need some felt on the edges to not rattle in there?
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Smarz1018

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Oh wow that was fast, I'm jealous I wish I had the skills to do that kind of work. Fingers crossed my LED strip idea works. Look forward to pics of yours all light up! What colors did you go with
 

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PatrickHenninger

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So does anyone know if that sync module can just be fully removed?

And is there a way to mount the box behind the screen? Or will it just need some felt on the edges to not rattle in there?
I removed my Sync unit, and the box just tucks right in, nothing rattles.
 

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I'm thinking of using this as the basis for a mild SQ build. I had originally wanted to take advantage of OEMRadio's ability to nix the DSP on the factory ACM, but this seems like it might be a good option too.

  • Does the unit always take quite a while to boot up or is that just the first time? Is there no standby mode for quick starts?
  • While the unit is booting up, what is the car's HVAC system doing? Is it just off, or stuck on the last setting?
  • @PatrickHenninger you mentioned that there's a sub out. Is this programmable? Can you set the crossover point and slope?
  • Is there a full-range out, or (even better) an output that uses the same crossover point and slope as the sub out but high pass?
  • What is the voltage on the preouts? Has anybody hooked them up to an o-scope to check for clipping?
  • I assume this replaces the ACM - has anybody hooked up an o-scope to the high level outputs and checked for clipping there too?
 
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PatrickHenninger

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I'm thinking of using this as the basis for a mild SQ build. I had originally wanted to take advantage of OEMRadio's ability to nix the DSP on the factory ACM, but this seems like it might be a good option too.

  • Does the unit always take quite a while to boot up or is that just the first time? Is there no standby mode for quick starts?
  • While the unit is booting up, what is the car's HVAC system doing? Is it just off, or stuck on the last setting?
  • @PatrickHenninger you mentioned that there's a sub out. Is this programmable? Can you set the crossover point and slope?
  • Is there a full-range out, or (even better) an output that uses the same crossover point and slope as the sub out but high pass?
  • What is the voltage on the preouts? Has anybody hooked them up to an o-scope to check for clipping?
  • I assume this replaces the ACM - has anybody hooked up an o-scope to the high level outputs and checked for clipping there too?
It usually takes 20 seconds or so to boot, regardless. There's no battery, so there's no standby mode.
The HVAC is on the last setting it was on while booting, buy you can turn it completely off, or max defrost while it boots.
The RCA pre-outs come directly off the cars harness, that's all I can tell you, I'm no audiophile.
 

Spart

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It usually takes 20 seconds or so to boot, regardless. There's no battery, so there's no standby mode.
The HVAC is on the last setting it was on while booting, buy you can turn it completely off, or max defrost while it boots.
The RCA pre-outs come directly off the cars harness, that's all I can tell you, I'm no audiophile.
About the pre-outs, are they for sub only?
 

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Spart

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I don't think so, there's no LPF of any sort in line.
Ah, you had me confused with this post:

On the Tesla, it's not poor at all. Sounds slightly fuller than stock to me, better highs. The subwoofer out is a nice plus. It's the horizontal unit that people complained about crappy audio.
If anyone out there has an o-scope they can hook up to one of these, I'd love to know the results.
 

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I replaced all the lights with blue ones, the push start button is split into two lights, i left the top one green so it looks oem when the engine is on. And the hazard toggle is a red light as well the others are blue. One thing i did discover is the leds on the ac and on/off are even smaller!! I was able to make the others fit into place there but that was a surprise lol. Also for those considering a gt350 button swap or swapping out the button to the OEM one, the tabs and keyways are off, so if you manage to take out the one on this unit, yours wont fit. You have to shave the keyways until its able to slide in. Another surprise lol
 
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PatrickHenninger

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Just so everyone is aware, this is my last group buy for a while. We're still short by 1 person, and have until 5pm EST Today to place the order. If we only have 8 orders, everyone will be refunded.
 
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PatrickHenninger

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I replaced all the lights with blue ones, the push start button is split into two lights, i left the top one green so it looks oem when the engine is on. And the hazard toggle is a red light as well the others are blue. One thing i did discover is the leds on the ac and on/off are even smaller!! I was able to make the others fit into place there but that was a surprise lol. Also for those considering a gt350 button swap or swapping out the button to the OEM one, the tabs and keyways are off, so if you manage to take out the one on this unit, yours wont fit. You have to shave the keyways until its able to slide in. Another surprise lol
WE NEED PICTURES OF YOUR NEW LEDs!!!!!!!!
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