NTO5's rubbing on drivers side

[HISSMAN]

I will keep an eye on my NT05's. Can you perhaps take a look at the sidewalls and see if you can find a batch number? It may actually just be a date code.

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[stavelystangs]

I appreciate the feedback. I have put the stock tires and rims back on. I will not ever drive on this tire and also may not go back with this tire and size again. I just can't figure out what caused this. I know there was some wear on the tire side, but not enough to make it separate like it did. The inside wear or separation was a big surprise to me when I took the tires off. Thank God for the nail in my back tire or else I may not have noticed it until it blew out on me, which would have not been nice. I'll take more pics of inside the car strut area and tire. I don't see any signs of rubbing anywhere. Thanks for the advice sigintel and everyone else.

 

[Cobra Jet]

https://lmr.com/item/WTK-56401653K13/sve-series-2-wheel-tire-kit-gunmetal-2015-nt05

Here you go....

Are the tires you received the same sizes mentioned in the link you provided, below quote is from LMR link:

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION

2015-2018 Mustang SVE Series 2 Wheel & Tire Kit
These wheels feature a gun metal finish with a machined lip and chrome rivets. This kit includes (2) 20x8.5", (2) 20x10" wheels, (1) set of chrome lug nuts, (2) 255/35/20 Nitto NT05 tires, (2) 305/30/20 Nitto NT05 tires, and (4) 2015-2018 TPMS Sensors to give your S550 Mustang that popular staggered look. Designed with a split 5 spoke design, these SVE wheels look great on any show, drag, or track car! Includes 4 brushed SVE center caps to finish off this great wheel kit. Pair this kit up with a set of SVE lowering springs to transform the look of your 2015-2018 Mustang!

 

[Cobra Jet]

Dude, go buy a lottery ticket if you were doing over 60 on that tire.
Sorry to hear this op. You are ok so no big deal. These things happen.
You can not drive on that tire again, period. Not fair risking other peoples lives.

Simple problem here. Its the wrong freakn tire or wrong wheel or wrong assembly mounted in front position.
Either that or you have a tuba jammed in the wheel well from that band nerd you ran over.
That does not even look like a 255/35 or 305/30!

That is not a tire defect. Having worked as a tire engineer and done failure analysis: nope.

Did these come from LMR directly?
If so, if they did not clearly label front and rear, they saved less than a penny in paint pen ink to risk this occuring. Their risk management and attorneys should jump to get you replacements and get those back as this is text book risk management (not to mention good marketing).

That tire might be a wee bit risky to drive on. Its cut thru to the shoulder reinforcement (circumferential cords) and possibly to body ply carcass and steel belts. Shoulder reinforcement keeps you from having blowouts from pot holes and we may have 0 protection left. If body plys are cut, Id be surprised if this doesnt blow out on you. In heavy lateral loads, the tread splice is completely unreinforced. You are basically a rolling tread separation waiting to happen.
Keep in mind, a tread separation is when part of the tread starts peeling and acts like a 400hp massive weedwacker while driving and rips your fender to shreads, blows your windows out, and tears the flesh off your arm if its resting on the window sill. Please dont drive on that.

Regarding pictures: can you take pictures of each wheel:
Deflate the damaged tire to 5 psi. If sidewall lets go while you are standing over it or inspecting it, it can launch your own hand into your teeth. Not funny, yes, have seen a tech get a busted lip. Truck tire blowouts kill tire techs.
Label w lighter color(white,yellow,etc) paint pen LF, RF, LR, RR on tire, or use sharpie on duct tape, chalk, grease pen etc.
Label these on inside next to molded in tire size and load info so its visible in tire size pics.
Label each wheel on backside on each spoke that has size or ET or offset numbers/markings so we see a LF or RF label next to the wheel size and offset stampings for example.
Label position on a few tread blocks next to the damage. You can add an arrow pointing to “outside” or “inside” as well.
General idea is clearly document what wheel sizes and offsets are matched up with whatever tires you got.
If the positions were not labeled as you received them then that is very important as well.

On pics of wheel size info, try and keep wheel visible so we know if we are looking at inside or outside edge.

With car safely on jack stands or some wood backing up your jack, get us some well lit pictures of your inner wheel wells, particularly the leading and trailing edges of your front spring perches. We can look for damaged perches, and possibly melted rubber. If perch is still structurally sound, thorough degrease with brake cleaner and a couple light coats of primer will keep it from rusting. If this was a perch rub, it may have gotten the strut fairly hot.

The wheel you show pictured does not look like a 255/35 20, maybe 255/45?
That looks like a front position spring perch rub, but on an excessively large OD tire.

A 27.4” OD tire is pretty close to max OD front for dynamic clearance.
Are your 255 a 45 series instead of 35 series? That would be way over 27.4”OD

In any case, if you document what you have, even if you put the rears on the front accidentally, I strongly suspect that asking *nicely* will get appropriate labelling added to the replacement wheel/tire and only leave the question of how much, if anything, they want you to pay. Offline thoughts avail via PM. Hope this all helps.

Great advice - definitely would also like to see pics of what you have requested from the OP...

 

[HISSMAN]

Indeed. A pic or two of the whole damn tire and tire specs would be really great..smh..

 

[NightmareMoon]

Page 1 has a pretty good pic of the tire.

 

[HISSMAN]

Page 1 has a pretty good pic of the tire.

Just a small section, but nothing containing information that anyone trying to help him with.

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