NTO5's rubbing on drivers side

[Paul@PKAUTODESIGN]

The offset is fine at a 10 ET 42

Let me ask you this

Have you lowered the vehicle? have you had the rear checked to make sure it is centered and not off left to right?

Have you checked alignment ?

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[stavelystangs]

I haven't had it aliened yet, but will soon. I have the stock tires and wheels on now and they seem to track pretty good. Nonetheless, It does seem, I'll have to push the offset out at least an inch, which I'm not a fan. I was trying to avoid messing with the geometry of the suspension, thus putting stress on the bearings by getting the proper tires. What's odd though is it only rubbed on the drivers side. anyone else running 20" rim and tires with a +32mm offset?

 

[abbeynormal]

Are you sure a 10" didn't get put on the front? Those 8.5s have a 6" backspace which is plenty of room in front. Or are we talking about the rear?

 

[stavelystangs]

I know it does seem odd. I verified it is the 8.5 front rims with +32mm offset and 6" backspacing. I have 10" in the rear with 305's no problem. the cut around the rim is very clean almost like the tire came apart from a seam. I have more pic's I'll post after I resize them. this is why I am inquiring to see if anyone else is running the same offset and backspacing.

 

[HISSMAN]

It could very well be a tire defect.

 

[Paul@PKAUTODESIGN]

It would be easier if I saw it in person, trying to figure this out just scratching my head on this one.

 

[ArrestmeRed]

Has to be one of two things or even a combo of both since your just rubbing on one side. First, the rear subframe is probably off center. There is about a 1/2 inch gap around the main cradle bolts which allows the subframe to be installed off-center from the factory. Steeda makes IRS alignment bushings which correct this and they're only about $40. The factory wheels are much smaller so you wouldn't really notice until you go up in wheel size like you did. Second, even though the car tracks straight, you may need some more negative camber to better fit the wheels(if it is rubbing on the outer edge). If you purchase the steeda kit you'd need to re-align the car anyway. You should be fine after that

 

[Jay-rod427]

Has to be one of two things or even a combo of both since your just rubbing on one side. First, the rear subframe is probably off center. There is about a 1/2 inch gap around the main cradle bolts which allows the subframe to be installed off-center from the factory. Steeda makes IRS alignment bushings which correct this and they're only about $40. The factory wheels are much smaller so you wouldn't really notice until you go up in wheel size like you did. Second, even though the car tracks straight, you may need some more negative camber to better fit the wheels(if it is rubbing on the outer edge). If you purchase the steeda kit you'd need to re-align the car anyway. You should be fine after that

Except his problem is a FRONT wheel.

 

[ArrestmeRed]

Except his problem is a FRONT wheel.

Damn then that makes this harder. You sure the car tracks straight when you let go of the wheel? Can you hear it rub while rolling slowly next to the tire or just over bumps? An 8.5 with that tire should never rub on stock suspension

 

[stavelystangs]

I really appreciate everyone's help! I'm waiting on a Steeda Extreme G-Trac K-Member Brace and after the install, I'll get the car aligned and go from there. I'm leaning towards a tire defect, because of the smooth seam like grove around the tire.:headbonk::headbonk::headbonk:

 

[NightmareMoon]

See how the entire shoulder is worn, not just a single groove? That looks like inside wear from camber/toe to me, not a rubbing issue. You’d probably hear rubbing fwiw.

If it’s super tall it could be rubbing on the spring perch (easy enough to eyeball), but my guess is that’s toe. We see that odd inside shoulder wear on a bunch of cars. Mine is starting to do it, but I can’t say if it’s front or rear in origin because I rotate my wheels, and my 19x10+35 wheels definitely have clearance on the inside front and rear.

 

[stavelystangs]

Right on Nightmare moon. I put the bad tire on today to see what it could be rubbing on and also I see no signs of rubbing anywhere. no marks at all.... this is a relief, but will watch my tires closely from now on. i'm glad i pulled it when i did or else.... ugh!

 

[NightmareMoon]

Ya get your alignment checked when you put on fresh tires, just to make sure the alignment is good and so it doesn’t roast the new tires prematurely.

How many miles on those NT05s? They look like they were getting close to the wear bars at least.

 

[stavelystangs]

I had my car realigned today. it was a little off on the front toe and some on the rear. the car drives better for sure. I initially said 20,000 miles on the tires, but I believe more like 14,000. we'll see as time goes. I won't put new tires on the 20" rims until the summer and i'll check the alignment then as well. thanks for all your help guys...

 

[sigintel]

I really appreciate everyone's help! I'm waiting on a Steeda Extreme G-Trac K-Member Brace and after the install, I'll get the car aligned and go from there. I'm leaning towards a tire defect, because of the smooth seam like grove around the tire.:headbonk::headbonk::headbonk:

Dude, go buy a lottery ticket if you were doing over 60 on that tire.
Sorry to hear this op. You are ok so no big deal. These things happen.
You can not drive on that tire again, period. Not fair risking other peoples lives.

Simple problem here. Its the wrong freakn tire or wrong wheel or wrong assembly mounted in front position.
Either that or you have a tuba jammed in the wheel well from that band nerd you ran over.
That does not even look like a 255/35 or 305/30!

That is not a tire defect. Having worked as a tire engineer and done failure analysis: nope.

Did these come from LMR directly?
If so, if they did not clearly label front and rear, they saved less than a penny in paint pen ink to risk this occuring. Their risk management and attorneys should jump to get you replacements and get those back as this is text book risk management (not to mention good marketing).

That tire might be a wee bit risky to drive on. Its cut thru to the shoulder reinforcement (circumferential cords) and possibly to body ply carcass and steel belts. Shoulder reinforcement keeps you from having blowouts from pot holes and we may have 0 protection left. If body plys are cut, Id be surprised if this doesnt blow out on you. In heavy lateral loads, the tread splice is completely unreinforced. You are basically a rolling tread separation waiting to happen.
Keep in mind, a tread separation is when part of the tread starts peeling and acts like a 400hp massive weedwacker while driving and rips your fender to shreads, blows your windows out, and tears the flesh off your arm if its resting on the window sill. Please dont drive on that.

Regarding pictures: can you take pictures of each wheel:
Deflate the damaged tire to 5 psi. If sidewall lets go while you are standing over it or inspecting it, it can launch your own hand into your teeth. Not funny, yes, have seen a tech get a busted lip. Truck tire blowouts kill tire techs.
Label w lighter color(white,yellow,etc) paint pen LF, RF, LR, RR on tire, or use sharpie on duct tape, chalk, grease pen etc.
Label these on inside next to molded in tire size and load info so its visible in tire size pics.
Label each wheel on backside on each spoke that has size or ET or offset numbers/markings so we see a LF or RF label next to the wheel size and offset stampings for example.
Label position on a few tread blocks next to the damage. You can add an arrow pointing to “outside” or “inside” as well.
General idea is clearly document what wheel sizes and offsets are matched up with whatever tires you got.
If the positions were not labeled as you received them then that is very important as well.

On pics of wheel size info, try and keep wheel visible so we know if we are looking at inside or outside edge.

With car safely on jack stands or some wood backing up your jack, get us some well lit pictures of your inner wheel wells, particularly the leading and trailing edges of your front spring perches. We can look for damaged perches, and possibly melted rubber. If perch is still structurally sound, thorough degrease with brake cleaner and a couple light coats of primer will keep it from rusting. If this was a perch rub, it may have gotten the strut fairly hot.

The wheel you show pictured does not look like a 255/35 20, maybe 255/45?
That looks like a front position spring perch rub, but on an excessively large OD tire.

A 27.4” OD tire is pretty close to max OD front for dynamic clearance.
Are your 255 a 45 series instead of 35 series? That would be way over 27.4”OD

In any case, if you document what you have, even if you put the rears on the front accidentally, I strongly suspect that asking *nicely* will get appropriate labelling added to the replacement wheel/tire and only leave the question of how much, if anything, they want you to pay. Offline thoughts avail via PM. Hope this all helps.

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