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Nitto NT555G2 swaying

NightmareMoon

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Even if a wheel is slightly bent, as long as it still balances with added weights within tolerances, its fine. If the wheel will still not balance with added weights then you're probably going to get a noticeable vibration.

It would take a good hit at speed to bend a wheel. I can't see any way the tire shop could have bent your wheel with the equipment they have on hand. I think its very unlikely its the tire shop's fault.

I doubt an out of balance wheel would cause the swaying you're describing though.
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wildcatgoal

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I had an AMG Mercedes rim from my CLA 45 "mysteriously" get bent (barrel wobble) after getting tires put on them once. Car drove in fine and was changing to tires that weren't loud as a jet plane (stock tires sucked, as per usual). Couple hours later guy comes in says the rim is bent and it's wobbling on the balancer. 1,600 miles on the car at that point and I had never hit a pot hole or anything. I found that VERY fishy but I had a wheel warranty so went to MB and got it replaced. THEY said my tire shop probably bent it and that they use special fancy pants tire machines. Uh huh...
 
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Soonertim4

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Have your toe settings checked. If you don't have any/enough rear toe-in the car will not be naturally stable and could have this behavior. I'm sad to say that it was very unlikely that the wheel ever contributed to the problem, nor was it likely to be the tires.
Will do that. Is it possible that the toe rods will just loosen themselves?Wondering though how the wheel got bent at the barrel. It may just be coiencedence but it all started when the wheels were first installed
 

BmacIL

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Will do that. Is it possible that the toe rods will just loosen themselves?Wondering though how the wheel got bent at the barrel. It may just be coiencedence but it all started when the wheels were first installed
Toe rods are unlikely to loosen themselves, but anything is possible. What might be happening is that you never noticed it with the stock wheels & tires because of width and tread differences. The wider Nittos may follow the road more.
 

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There isn't anything on the mating surface of the wheel to the lug nuts, is there? Backside of the wheel where it rests against the hub?
 

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Soonertim4

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I had 325/30/19 invos on the car before i put the dr's on

I appreciate your insight into this
 
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There isn't anything on the mating surface of the wheel to the lug nuts, is there? Backside of the wheel where it rests against the hub?
I dont think so:shrug:
 

BmacIL

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I had 325/30/19 invos on the car before i put the dr's on

I appreciate your insight into this
Hmm...interesting. This is definitely a geometry or suspension issue, and not tires & wheels if you've experienced it now with multiple sets. Did you check to make sure nothing in your suspension is binding (vertical links, toe rods, etc)?
 
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Soonertim4

Soonertim4

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Hmm...interesting. This is definitely a geometry or suspension issue, and not tires & wheels if you've experienced it now with multiple sets. Did you check to make sure nothing in your suspension is binding (vertical links, toe rods, etc)?
I looked under the car the other day and the only thing that stood out to me was the sway bar didn't completely look like it was seated in the holder/bushing. Im not really sure what i am looking for.
The funny thing is that it doesn't do it all the time. Some times i get up to 90 mph and it does fine. Sometimes i hit 55-60 and it feels like my ass end is going to swing around
 

BmacIL

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I looked under the car the other day and the only thing that stood out to me was the sway bar didn't completely look like it was seated in the holder/bushing. Im not really sure what i am looking for.
The funny thing is that it doesn't do it all the time. Some times i get up to 90 mph and it does fine. Sometimes i hit 55-60 and it feels like my ass end is going to swing around
Definitely check that out, then. Which swaybar and what setting?
 

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Soonertim4

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Definitely check that out, then. Which swaybar and what setting?
Its th factory sway bars and end links at the moment
 

BmacIL

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Its th factory sway bars and end links at the moment
Ok. It's unlikely that is installed incorrectly but never hurts to check. Check to make sure your toe rods don't bind, nor your vertical links. You did cut the rear bumpstops the right amount when you put your springs on? Check all that, and what your toe is adjusted to. You'll want around 0.25 deg toe in combined.
 
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I didn't install the springs
I kno the front were cut
Don't remember if there were rear ones
 

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With the issues you're describing, I would just get an alignment and make sure everything is in spec.

In regards to the bent wheel, I too have a hard time believing the tire shop would've bent it, unless they took it for a drive and hit something. I just don't see what could cause that during the tire install process.

I recently went through something similar with the factory 20" Foundry wheels. The factory Pirelli PZero summer tires were worn out so I ordered a set of Conti DWS 06 A/S tires (slightly wider at 275/35/20 square). Went I took them to my buddy's shop, they discovered that one of my wheels was bent. It was definitely noticeable on the machine. I still have no idea how it happened but I KNOW they didn't do it since I was standing right there with them the entire time.

The bend was on the inside rim. It wasn't too bad but you could definitely feel it when it was placed on the front of the car. I ended up taking it to a wheel repair place and they fixed it and rebalanced it for around $100. Good to go now.
 

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Went through the same exact thing my friend.Car was fine bought a set of Am pp replica wheels for the rear and a set of nitto nt95r 305/35/19 dr's.Put them and at the same time put my dss axles in.Around 80 mph car would sometimes sway and scare the hell out of me,also taking ramps i could feel the rear of the car moving around.Was so bad one day had a friend in my car and he ask me why i keep correcting the wheel and what the hell is moving around like that,well to keep it somewhat short lol,when i put the axles in and retighten all the suspension bolts the suspension was unloaded Turns out it is best to load the suspension before u tighten the bolts,mainly pivot points.Also bolts i thought i had really tight were not even close to torque specs.Went back to my shop loaded suspension and retorqued all the bolts and made a huge difference.I would try that next being u said u had suspension mods.
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