New Wheels for the 'R'

[JN66]

Nevermind: Work Emotion CR2P

Sponsored

 

[DrumReaper]

Hey Fellas -

Picking up the new 'R' next week in Ruby Red (the old GT350 went back a few weeks ago - long story) and I was wondering what you guys have done, if anything, for wheels for the daily drive?

I'm looking to remove the Carbon wheels and bring them out on track days only. This car will be my daily driver (except in the snow) and I am looking for ideas and pictures for a new set.

I was wanting the MRR M600 but they won't be available until March or April.

Thanks in advance!

These are the wheels I went with. They are Forgestars and weigh around 25 pounds front, less in rear. I'm only out a little compared to forged wheels and these will do fine for what I want which is a good street tire/wheel combo.

The problem you WILL run into is the lug/stud issues with the R. I am presently working out an open lug/stud arrangement that will solve my issues as I like the open lug look that the Utah FRP school cars have.

I'll have more details when I have that figured out in the upcoming days.

 

[RenegadeUnlimited]

I would also recommend removing the front Splitter for daily, and the rear spoiler to offset the aero, and the Sport Cup 2, and the Recaro Seats, and the R badges, and add in the rear seat and boooooom......Why did you buy the R?

Should of went with a Non R, or Mustang GT.

Just my 2 cents.....

 

[JN66]

I would also recommend removing the front Splitter for daily, and the rear spoiler to offset the aero, and the Sport Cup 2, and the Recaro Seats, and the R badges, and add in the rear seat and boooooom......Why did you buy the R?

Should of went with a Non R, or Mustang GT.

Just my 2 cents.....

So...you don't like your 'R'? Could you not sell it for more than the current value of a 2017 GT350? Or maybe trade it straight across for one?

 

[DrumReaper]

I would also recommend removing the front Splitter for daily, and the rear spoiler to offset the aero, and the Sport Cup 2, and the Recaro Seats, and the R badges, and add in the rear seat and boooooom......Why did you buy the R?

Should of went with a Non R, or Mustang GT.

Just my 2 cents.....

It's his money... he can stimulate the economy any way he likes. :cheers:

 

[JN66]

It's his money... he can stimulate the economy any way he likes. :cheers:

I had a GT350...gave it back. I am a bit concerned about the front splitter though truth be told - but what can a guy do.

 

[DrumReaper]

I had a GT350...gave it back. I am a bit concerned about the front splitter though truth be told - but what can a guy do.

You can get a regular GT350 front chin spoiler... I would highly recommend it as I just heard a replacement R chin spoiler is near $7k.

 

[garagelogic]

Thanks for the recs but I'm no fan of spacers for this car. I'll be getting different studs to convert to an open lug setup.

If you change studs, how do you plan to be able to switch out the aftermarket wheels for the stock CF unit if/when you track the car?

 

[DrumReaper]

If you change studs, how do you plan to be able to switch out the aftermarket wheels for the stock CF unit if/when you track the car?

Easy... have studs that accommodate both wheels.

I'm just not a fan of double-lugging. There's nothing to say that the NVH with these cars wouldn't cause a lug to come aloose and then be a 60mph projectile. I just can't risk that.

 

[garagelogic]

Easy... have studs that accommodate both wheels.

I'm just not a fan of double-lugging. There's nothing to say that the NVH with these cars wouldn't cause a lug to come aloose and then be a 60mph projectile. I just can't risk that.

There's plenty of evidence. As I've stated, I've been running my setup for over 3000 miles and not one outer lug has loosened. Besides, I seriously doubt any NVH related to the FPC engine is going to have any impact on the lug nuts.

I'm still interested on how you're going to find a stud that is long enough to accommodate the factory R wheels and short enough for aftermarket wheels.

 

[DrumReaper]

There's plenty of evidence. As I've stated, I've been running my setup for over 3000 miles and not one outer lug has loosened. Besides, I seriously doubt any NVH related to the FPC engine is going to have any impact on the lug nuts.

I'm still interested on how you're going to find a stud that is long enough to accommodate the factory R wheels and short enough for aftermarket wheels.

The NVH from the engine doesn't concern me, it's the NVH from the road. You may feel confident in yours but I could never feel safe with that setup.

Again, it's easy... find a stud the length of the factory stud that is an open lug setup. The length doesn't bother me about the factory stud, it's the ugliness of it.

 

[machsmith]

I'll probably make my own spacers for it when the time comes. Don't get me wrong I'd like to bypass a spacer but I'm not removing studs and having 3" lugs haha.

 

[Epiphany]

There's plenty of evidence. As I've stated, I've been running my setup for over 3000 miles and not one outer lug has loosened. Besides, I seriously doubt any NVH related to the FPC engine is going to have any impact on the lug nuts.

I'm still interested on how you're going to find a stud that is long enough to accommodate the factory R wheels and short enough for aftermarket wheels.

The fact that you have traveled a certain number of miles is not a metric by which to measure the effect of a second nut being added atop a factory or after market lug nut.

When you tighten a second nut, you are forcing the bottom nut flanks in the opposite direction they need to be in order to attain proper clamping force. You are relieving the friction to a certain degree. If you continue to tighten the top nut (while holding the bottom nut in a static position) you are increasing the force between the two nuts. At a certain point (difficult to discern with careful measurements and analysis) you risk fatiguing and stripping the threads or a tensile fracture between the two nuts on the stud.

The only way (short of a chemical thread locker or Nyloc-style second nut) the second nut stays in place is as a result of the friction created when the proper amount of preload has been reached. You are stretching the stud a given amount in order to do that. In this case, 150ft-lbs (+/- 15 ft-lbs according to the factory manual) allows proper stretch. For a dynamic application such as this I would not add a second nut for mere cosmetic reasons.

The NVH from the engine doesn't concern me, it's the NVH from the road. You may feel confident in yours but I could never feel safe with that setup.

Studies have shown that transversely applied, alternating forces, can generate the most severe conditions for the self loosening of a fastened connection. Something (such as a poorly balanced wheel, failed damper, or weak spring) that generates a lot of vibration may help facilitate a fastener such as a lug nut coming loose but I don't see root causation - in general. As long as proper preload is maintained, without fatigue of either the stud or nut, typical road "NVH" shouldn't be of concern.

 

[DrumReaper]

Understood [MENTION=19066]Epiphany[/MENTION]. Thanks for the insight brother.

 

[JN66]

Epiphany dropping some science on us tonight. Appreciate the knowledge Sir.

Sponsored