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garagelogic

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The fact that you have traveled a certain number of miles is not a metric by which to measure the effect of a second nut being added atop a factory or after market lug nut.

When you tighten a second nut, you are forcing the bottom nut flanks in the opposite direction they need to be in order to attain proper clamping force. You are relieving the friction to a certain degree. If you continue to tighten the top nut (while holding the bottom nut in a static position) you are increasing the force between the two nuts. At a certain point (difficult to discern with careful measurements and analysis) you risk fatiguing and stripping the threads or a tensile fracture between the two nuts on the stud.

The only way (short of a chemical thread locker or Nyloc-style second nut) the second nut stays in place is as a result of the friction created when the proper amount of preload has been reached. You are stretching the stud a given amount in order to do that. In this case, 150ft-lbs (+/- 15 ft-lbs according to the factory manual) allows proper stretch. For a dynamic application such as this I would not add a second nut for mere cosmetic reasons.

Studies have shown that transversely applied, alternating forces, can generate the most severe conditions for the self loosening of a fastened connection. Something (such as a poorly balanced wheel, failed damper, or weak spring) that generates a lot of vibration may help facilitate a fastener such as a lug nut coming loose but I don't see root causation - in general. As long as proper preload is maintained, without fatigue of either the stud or nut, typical road "NVH" shouldn't be of concern.
I get what you're saying, but in my case, the outer, cosmetic lugnut does not come into contact with the inner, open lug. The inner lug is the only one torqued to spec. The outer lug is tightened until snug and then another 1/4 turn. So far, not one of the outer lugs, using this method, has loosened in 3000 miles over mixed surface conditions. If I was really concerned about one coming off, I'd simply apply, as you noted, some thread locker to the studs.

I get some people might not be comfortable with my solution, but that does not make it a wrong solution. Some are not comfortable driving in the rain on their Cup2's, others are uncomfortable driving their GT350 in the snow or without having the oil line recall performed. Doing those things does not mean they are stupid or driving their cars wrong, they're just not doing things the way many would choose.

I choose not to run ugly open lugs and am very comfortable with my setup.
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Paul@PKAUTODESIGN

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There are actually more and more options coming out that work on the Shelby platform. I myself am getting a set of Forgeline GA1R wheels for fun.

But now there are other options


VS Forged
Forgeline
FOrgeline


Just to name a few.
 
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JN66

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There are actually more and more options coming out that work on the Shelby platform. I myself am getting a set of Forgeline GA1R wheels for fun.

But now there are other options


VS Forged
Forgeline
FOrgeline


Just to name a few.
Paul - do those come in R-Spec? Also, I see you mentioned the same company twice haha.
 

Paul@PKAUTODESIGN

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Paul - do those come in R-Spec? Also, I see you mentioned the same company twice haha.
LOL Typo I meant Forgestar

Just Forgeline and other forged wheel companies.

VS forged cannot just yet and Forgestar does not have a 11.5 variant sizing.

The MRR M600 is the other one of course.
 
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JN66

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LOL Typo I meant Forgestar

Just Forgeline and other forged wheel companies.

VS forged cannot just yet and Forgestar does not have a 11.5 variant sizing.

The MRR M600 is the other one of course.
Yeah, just nervous about waiting that long for the MRR m600. I love that wheel, but, I need something in the meantime as I am not looking drive around on the 2cups this winter :)
 

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Paul@PKAUTODESIGN

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Yeah, just nervous about waiting that long for the MRR m600. I love that wheel, but, I need something in the meantime as I am not looking drive around on the 2cups this winter :)
Why dont we do a set of wheels like FOrgestar wheels their on Bf Special. They will take a few weeks to finish, but their well worth it ?

slap some tires on there and tada Santa upgraded to a much better more badass slay with 526 pure american horses ( sorry I had to try a shitty winter joke)
 
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JN66

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Why dont we do a set of wheels like FOrgestar wheels their on Bf Special. They will take a few weeks to finish, but their well worth it ?

slap some tires on there and tada Santa upgraded to a much better more badass slay with 526 pure american horses ( sorry I had to try a shitty winter joke)
Forgestar will do R-Spec?

Let me check the website out for some designs.
 

Paul@PKAUTODESIGN

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Forgestar will do R-Spec?

Let me check the website out for some designs.
No no sorry miscommunication

Only companies are

the wheel I developed project 6gr ( which has been mentioned) inenr clearance is tight .

Or The M600 wheel


Other then that for R spec its a fully forged wheel like Forgeline, HRE, ADv1 etc.
 
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JN66

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No no sorry miscommunication

Only companies are

the wheel I developed project 6gr ( which has been mentioned) inenr clearance is tight .

Or The M600 wheel


Other then that for R spec its a fully forged wheel like Forgeline, HRE, ADv1 etc.
Got it! Thanks brother.
 

Paul@PKAUTODESIGN

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Got it! Thanks brother.
Np


But heads up I am working on some designs no eta of when they'll be released but I learned from other wheels and now that I own my own company I build it the way I want to with no compromise and I'm aiming for real oem inner barrel clearance so we'll see how that goes

2 fitments

Oem gt350
Oem gt350r


And for drum reapers concern I'm working with a company for 3" solid lug nuts
 

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JN66

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Np


But heads up I am working on some designs no eta of when they'll be released but I learned from other wheels and now that I own my own company I build it the way I want to with no compromise and I'm aiming for real oem inner barrel clearance so we'll see how that goes

2 fitments

Oem gt350
Oem gt350r


And for drum reapers concern I'm working with a company for 3" solid lug nuts
You figure the M600 will have OEM clearance for the gt350r?
 

Paul@PKAUTODESIGN

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You figure the M600 will have OEM clearance for the gt350r?
Their saying it'll have 3 mm which is good but we'll make sure physicaly
 
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JN66

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Need4SpeedMotors

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I have the 6GR's in R-spec on my R. I use closed Gorilla lugs on the rear and open lugs on the front. With the open lugs on the front, a significant portion of the studs remains exposed, but I simply used short, closed Gorilla lugs to cover the exposed section. I know there are some who fear that the outer lugs on the front might present a hazard, but after 2K+ miles daily driving with this setup, I've not had even one of the outer lugs get loose. I figured if I had encountered such an issue, a little loc-tite would solve the issue. One note: this is my daily setup. I switch back to the stock setup for track/HPDE duty.

IMG_0624.webp
Thanks for sharing, such a nice setup! We would want to shine some light on the clearence for the brake calipers on the GT350 as we have installed wheels on at least 50 sets in house and sent out over 100 sets at this point.

The infamous "tire boogers" getting stuck between the caliper and barrel of the wheels. The large 15.5" front and 15.0" rear rotors and large Brembo brakes are not the easiest to clear. We have had many of our clients use them on and off the track with very sticky tires like the Michelin cup 2 or Toyo R888 and some have experienced this as well. Please also note that we have had clients that track their GT350 with the factory wheels and have a few sessions they have the "tire booger" markings as well. Rest assured it has not resulted to any damage to the vehicle or the wheel. When using a 19" barrel, you are limited to the size constraints as well that it is only a 19" diameter. Hope that helps.
 

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You could also look into Finspeed wheels. They have some nice options regarding weight and finishes.
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