New to foam cannon washing, what am i doing wrong

[Evolvd]

I'm sitting here drinking a beer after work and wondering what in discussion hell have I opened here. Still appreciate all the replies and info and honestly telling me an idiot for prior decisions. I can accept the criticism , so I appreciate everybody's responses and such.

So I will be sorting through everything as far as options, opinions, facts, spreadsheets, There are spreadsheets right? Techniques, products, ph balance, clay or no clay, anti glazing stuff, nobody has mentioned glass cleaner..what the heck guys/gals.

From what I have quickly learned. Chemical Guys sucks a big one, my neighbors a liar and see that now. Although the wash bucket I bought as the kit doesn't leak and there is a top. I filled it half way and shook the fuck outa it, no leaks. The cheap bucket with a cover is top notch. Thank you overseas manufacturers.

I'm going to throw throw the 1.1 orifice in my foam cannon and see how it works. Will be a mid week wash of just that and spraying to see how it does. I've been looking at the coochie gentle snow foam (ph neutral) as recommended. So I might try that next. (I spelled that wrong on purpose fyi).

I've seen the links on the drying towels, so im going to look into those. I also am looking at a short snub gun with quick connects and a new hose for the pressure washer , with quick disconnects. I can't stand having to move stuff around to accommodate for a short baby hose and gun I don't need to use.
I might have glossed over some things, but I don't have a dedicated barrel brush to get the inside of my painted wheels without removing them.


EDIT:: I forgot to ask, what type of tips do yall use for pressure washer? I think I need to order some.

Honestly I would just recommend perusing some YouTube detailing pages like Obsessed Garage, Pan the Organizer, DIY Detail, Auto Fanatic, etc. You don’t need to watch every video but search for the titles that catch your interest. You’ll learn a lot about what the pros and weekend warriors do and what products they love, and most importantly, how to use them correctly.

As for glass cleaner, Stoner Invisible Glass is about the best I’ve found. It’s ammonia free which means it’s safe for tinted windows and when used properly it leaves no streaks behind. It comes in an aerosol can or a spray bottle. I have one of each as the can atomizes a lot of the product and it flashes too quickly in direct sun light.

For barrel brush I like the Microfiber Madness Incredibrush Flat. Its microfiber cover is removable and washable.

https://www.carpro-us.com/wash-mitts/microfiber-madness-incredibrush-flat/

For hoses I’d recommend Kobrajet. They aren’t cheap but they’re very well made and don’t kink. For stubby gun you can’t go wrong with the MTM Hydro SGS28. You can get them with an internal or external swivel which is very helpful to keep the hose from twisting into loops as you walk around.

Pair that gun with a Mosmatic 20 degree angled wand and an appropriately sized 40 degree nozzle and you’ll be golden.

Sponsored

 

[skinnyb]

Coochie lol. That's funny. But honestly the GSF soap is top notch.. As for pressure washer tips I use the MTM 40 degree with the plastic protector. And the MTM stubby gun with swivel. Awesome stuff. Pair with the MTM PF22 foam canon and you are in business.

MTM Hydro Acqualine Stainless... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09QXTF5WH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PV4VKX...089TSIL5&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

[MAGS1]

Good list of channels from Brian. All are definitely worth checking out. I also like Apex Detail. The guy that does the channel, Brian, owns the Apex Auto Detail shop in PA (Philly area I believe). He reviews products but also has various tutorials and explains why he uses the methods and products that he uses.

Here’s the Apex video that convinced me to go with Ethos for my coating just as a sample video for you.

 

[kilobravo]

Yep, I do love the quote feature.. <BSEG>

..and wondering what in discussion hell have I opened here.

<grinning> RIGHT off the bat, you had me rolling, BM but it didn't stop there!

I filled it half way and shook the ferk outa it, no leaks.

I spelled that wrong on purpose fyi

Your most humorous wit is impressive. :=)

I also am looking at a short snub gun with quick connects and a new hose for the pressure washer , with quick disconnects.

Honestly I would just recommend perusing some YouTube detailing pages like Obsessed Garage, Pan the Organizer, DIY Detail, Auto Fanatic, etc. You don’t need to watch every video but search for the titles that catch your interest. You’ll learn a lot about what the pros and weekend warriors do and what products they love, and most importantly, how to use them correctly.

Brian covered everything perfectly. Sounds like he and I have nearly identical setups and I can't emphasize just how important "good gear" is when it comes to vehicle washing. Ditto for the YooToob shout out, what an incredibly wonderful resource it is.

But once I moved from pinko commie gear to those amazing German engineers, it was like the heavens had opened before me..what a frickin' HUGE difference.

For hoses I’d recommend Kobrajet.

For stubby gun you can’t go wrong with the MTM Hydro SGS28.

Pair that gun with a Mosmatic 20 degree angled wand and an appropriately sized 40 degree nozzle and you’ll be golden.

↑↑↑↑↑↑ ****** ↑↑↑↑↑↑​

I have been using this same gear with a Kranzle 1122TST now for over four years and again, I simply can't tell you how much this combination has impressed me to include and perhaps most importantly, the high quality, SS, Mosmatic quick connects. Seriously, those little chingassos make your pressure washing life a dream. Really.

but I don't have a dedicated barrel brush to get the inside of my painted wheels without removing them.

As usual, too many choices in that category. I've probably tried three or four at both ends of the cost spectrum, and my favorite by far is again, from OG. The shortie is too short for any of my needs but the long handled version works very well on wide wheel barrels. It takes abuse for sure with all the back and forth scrubbing but, I have only replaced it once in four years.

I tried the softer, MF type, but found that my obsessiveness wasn't happy with rinsing it, seemed like too much dirt stayed on it. The bristle type doesn't have that issue but, it could all be in my convoluted brain, too. <BSEG>

what type of tips do yall use for pressure washer?

Again, my favorite goes to Mosmatic with their OG Spec Nozzle Assembly and I have both the 25 and 40-degree versions. For me, these fellas are a close second in usefulness to the Mosmatic QC's. Excellent design and construction but the best part about them is the rubber tip, it has saved my bacon more times than I'd care to remember. Also highly-recommended.

No doubt you have heard the old addage,

"Buy cheap, buy twice"

Well, I can think of NO better example than this subject. If you can convince your better half, (if there is such a person, <grin>) or your financial advisor, to spring for the fairly-substantial outlay of pesos, run, don't walk, and pick up one of the Kranzle kits with an OG Mosmatic upgrade, and you will think you have died and gone to heaven. Seriously.

 

[Evolvd]

I

Yep, I do love the quote feature.. <BSEG>



<grinning> RIGHT off the bat, you had me rolling, BM but it didn't stop there!




Your most humorous wit is impressive. :=)





Brian covered everything perfectly. Sounds like he and I have nearly identical setups and I can't emphasize just how important "good gear" is when it comes to vehicle washing. Ditto for the YooToob shout out, what an incredibly wonderful resource it is.

But once I moved from pinko commie gear to those amazing German engineers, it was like the heavens had opened before me..what a frickin' HUGE difference.

↑↑↑↑↑↑ ****** ↑↑↑↑↑↑​

I have been using this same gear with a Kranzle 1122TST now for over four years and again, I simply can't tell you how much this combination has impressed me to include and perhaps most importantly, the high quality, SS, Mosmatic quick connects. Seriously, those little chingassos make your pressure washing life a dream. Really.


As usual, too many choices in that category. I've probably tried three or four at both ends of the cost spectrum, and my favorite by far is again, from OG. The shortie is too short for any of my needs but the long handled version works very well on wide wheel barrels. It takes abuse for sure with all the back and forth scrubbing but, I have only replaced it once in four years.

I tried the softer, MF type, but found that my obsessiveness wasn't happy with rinsing it, seemed like too much dirt stayed on it. The bristle type doesn't have that issue but, it could all be in my convoluted brain, too. <BSEG>


Again, my favorite goes to Mosmatic with their OG Spec Nozzle Assembly and I have both the 25 and 40-degree versions. For me, these fellas are a close second in usefulness to the Mosmatic QC's. Excellent design and construction but the best part about them is the rubber tip, it has saved my bacon more times than I'd care to remember. Also highly-recommended.

No doubt you have heard the old addage,

"Buy cheap, buy twice"

Well, I can think of NO better example than this subject. If you can convince your better half, (if there is such a person, <grin>) or your financial advisor, to spring for the fairly-substantial outlay of pesos, run, don't walk, and pick up one of the Kranzle kits with an OG Mosmatic upgrade, and you will think you have died and gone to heaven. Seriously.

wise men think alike lol

OG has gone above and beyond to curate kits to suit every budget. Some folks refer to them as “Overpriced Garage” but honestly if you look at what they give you their prices are damn near identical to what you’d pay to build your own setup. Their Cox Reels come with stainless connectors which is a $100 increase over the brass fittings it normally comes with. Do you need SS fittings? Not really, but if you have hard water or live in a humid environment they’ll last a lot longer than brass fittings will.

If you’re a weekend warrior like myself I opted for the Active 2.0 wall mount setup from OG. I couldn’t justify the price of the Kranzle for my budget and since the Active 2.0 is a 200-250 hour unit (vs 100-150 for store bought brands) this PW should last me 10 years assuming I wash once per week with about 30 minutes total run time per wash (it’s more like 10-12 minutes.

 

[DFB5.0]

Honestly I would just recommend perusing some YouTube detailing pages like Obsessed Garage, Pan the Organizer, DIY Detail, Auto Fanatic, etc. You don’t need to watch every video but search for the titles that catch your interest. You’ll learn a lot about what the pros and weekend warriors do and what products they love, and most importantly, how to use them correctly.

I would also suggest having a look through the below thread......................................

DFB'S LITTLE BLACK BOOK OF DETAILING - UPDATED MARCH 2024 | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com

The SGS 28 is a good allrounder for getting into a short gun.

MTM SGS-28 Swiveling Sprayer with Quick Disconnects | Obsessed Garage

 

[kilobravo]

wise men think alike lol

<BIG smile> Funny how that happens, eh Brian?

I opted for the Active 2.0 wall mount setup from OG

Now I remember that photo of your setup and except for the pw, it looks damn near identical to Matt's! <grin> And, having it wall mounted is SO nice..VERY "sano" setup, my friend.

As for OG prices of hardware, you are absolutely correct because I parted out what I needed and the total was damn near what I paid. Zero complaints.

But had Matt found the Active brand before I made my Kranzle purchase, I might very well have opted for that unit as his review is pretty impressive and I'm sure it will give you many years of service.

 

[blankman]

Ok So apparently I need to check in on threads more often. This is way faster paced than back in the day of forums when I was a wee lad.

So two items of good news. I went through the rest of my GC green stuff. I put more than I ever did before in the wash bucket and cannon and it seemed to work better. Mind you it was around 8pm and the sun had been off the car for a couple hours. But it wasn't as bad as before with the wash cycle. I did get it to foam like shaving cream once I got my supply hose to the washer straightened out.

I also tried something new and did the hand wash in sections. So I used to just re foam the whole car and wash by individual areas then spray off. This time I foamed the area I was going to mit wash and only that. Well a little over spray obviously, hand washed sprayed off. Seemed to do way better, but still left spots like the foam was drying.

So the second item of news is , for some reason I got a check from the dealerships 3rd party registration company saying I overpaid by $1550. So I had already spent that money, so it's like free money right? I know that's not how it works but the dmv said full taxes had been paid for out of state and here in NY hence why I just got my plates and registration 4 days ago.

So my plan is to (not spend all of it), buy a shorty swivel gun, some other tips as the ryobi just came with a 15 degree and a swivel degree that doesn't work after the 3rd use. Buy a quick connect brass kit going from the washer to the gun, along with a 30' hose kit from washer to gun so I don't have to keep moving the washer, and a new supply hose (honestly mine is made up from the different hoses , cut and mended with a bunch of connecting items), to start getting it right.

I've taken the advice on looking at the Koochie line of products and I'm going to order the small bottle of GSF to see how it performs with my setup. I get a ton of pollen everyday on the car so I wasn't sure, as I've read here and elsewhere, about adding the green star to the foam as a helpful agent to get rid of tar and bugs....there are so many bugs I hit on the way to work and cruising everyday. I don't want to take a bug scrubber to them as I have on other cars in the past, so im curious if it works.

I've probably watched over 50 YT videos on everything, but I actually prefer information from people who have used said things. That's why I listened to my old neighbor and a guy at work about the CG stuff. I did noticed something about the Coochie gsf about it not reactivating when you spray it again, and I wonder if that is part of my problem with the CG stuff. I do see more foam or wash when I hit the car with the pressure washer.

Sorry this is waaaay to long, but another question is what canni do about old wax left on plastics and left between body panels and such? I heard about removing old wax from hard plastics, I tried out the eraser method on the front lip, it seemed to work but I don't want to have to go over all the hard plastics to remove it. There is also was on the rubber between the hood and front bumper on the rubber, and also was on all the little circle around the car. Any suggestions for that?

 

[DFB5.0]

So my plan is to (not spend all of it), buy a shorty swivel gun, some other tips as the ryobi just came with a 15 degree and a swivel degree that doesn't work after the 3rd use. Buy a quick connect brass kit going from the washer to the gun, along with a 30' hose kit from washer to gun so I don't have to keep moving the washer, and a new supply hose (honestly mine is made up from the different hoses , cut and mended with a bunch of connecting items), to start getting it right.

........there are so many bugs I hit on the way to work and cruising everyday. I don't want to take a bug scrubber to them as I have on other cars in the past, so im curious if it works.

I've probably watched over 50 YT videos on everything, but I actually prefer information from people who have used said things. That's why I listened to my old neighbor and a guy at work about the CG stuff. I did noticed something about the Coochie gsf about it not reactivating when you spray it again, and I wonder if that is part of my problem with the CG stuff. I do see more foam or wash when I hit the car with the pressure washer.

Sorry this is waaaay to long, but another question is what can I do about old wax left on plastics and left between body panels and such? I heard about removing old wax from hard plastics, I tried out the eraser method on the front lip, it seemed to work but I don't want to have to go over all the hard plastics to remove it. There is also was on the rubber between the hood and front bumper on the rubber, and also was on all the little circle around the car. Any suggestions for that?

For the pressure washer tips, you want a 25-degree tip for wheels, and preferably a 40-degree for the body. If you have to pick one, go for the 40-degree. I would also recommend getting tips with a rubber shroud to prevent accidental damage. MTM and Mosmatic both have these. For an 1800 psi Ryobi, the suggested orifice is 3.0.

Mosmatic Stainless Nozzle Assembly | Pressure Washer Tip | Obsessed Garage Store

MTM ACQUALINE NOZZLE GUARD 40 DEG 3.0 W/PLUG - MTM Hydro (mtmhydroparts.com)
MTM ACQUALINE NOZZLE GUARD 25 DEG 3.0 W/PLUG - MTM Hydro (mtmhydroparts.com)

Also, check out this kit, this has everything you need to convert your Ryobi, even if you don't buy the package, you can use this as an ordering guide -

Ryobi Portable Accessory Package | Obsessed Garage

With the soap, a lot of soaps can "reactivate" when trying to rinse the foam off the car, which can significantly increase the time it takes to properly rinse after the wash. Koch Chemie GSF is very good in this regard, as is NV Snow, Opti-Coat M-Wash and DIY Detail Incredible Suds.

With old wax residue on plastic trim, the pencil eraser is a quick and mess-free solution. Otherwise, if can still find some Meguiar's M39, that stuff removes dried wax residue with ease. Otherwise, Nexzet Deep Plastic Cleaner will work too.

https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-92441015-Plastic-Deep-Cleaner/dp/B004B8EUI0

 

[kilobravo]

For the pressure washer tips, you want a 25-degree tip for wheels, and preferably a 40-degree for the body. If you have to pick one, go for the 40-degree. I would also recommend getting tips with a rubber shroud to prevent accidental damage.

BM (@blankman): I wholeheartedly agree with D's recommendations. If you use the pw frequently (a wash every week or two,) and especially if your NY location tends to have high humidity, I would also add stainless QC fittings to the list. Brass is fine but the stainless fittings just hold up better and, don't oxidize.

But for sure get the rubber protected nozzle(s), you'll thank Deyon for that one, trust me. <smile> You can get by with a 15 degree version but only if you keep the tip a good distance from the paint. Much better to get a 40 degree nozzle and not have to worry about being careful.

 

[MAGS1]

+1 for the stainless fittings. Tool Daily has complete kits, that’s what I use on mine. Agree with using SS especially if you have hard water. If you have softer water, brass would work but the SS is only a few bucks more.

https://a.co/d/cR792LH

 

[blankman]

Ok, my apologies you guys replied a while ago and I just caught this. So this morning on break, (1:30am) I ordered a bottle of gsf, a flat wheel barrel brush, lambskin mit, detail brush, 2 raceglaze brushes (one for application of the wheel dressing) , and a detail brush. Holy crap the cost. But I'd rather get somethings that have been tested then a suggestion from a friend for his Subaru. Plus I'm trying to test things before I buy doubles for the lingenfelter. Getting my pops some stuff for the corvette after I teat this stuff out, which has been tested but I prefer to see first hand. His is a Chevy so please don't knock it , I've done way to many installs on that car.

I looked at the conversion kit and holy crap...I'm going to probably just order a pair of the nozzles recommended as that kit is crazy at 600$. I'm going to wait to see how that gsf does before I start spending for the PS stuff . I have a gas powered but it's shared between myself, my father and my brother in law. So the idea was a lite kit for myself for the car.

Unfortunately there is a giant tree that drops pollen, buds, and helps birds crap allover the car. So I have been washing it almost 3 times a week now. The pollen coverage is insane. Goes from clean as a whitsle from blue to straight green pollen. Super heavy. Just spraying it off with a hose or the PW just leaves pollen water residue everywhere. Hence the reason I'm interested in just a "touch less wash" , every couple of days.

 

[blankman]

Took the advice and just ordered both of those nozzles. So hopefully next week I'll have an update on the gsf. I did run out of CG stuff. I'd like to either foam again this weekend or wash, so my question is would buying some riots foam work to wash? I've read some stuff online, but prefer real world solutions.

 

[blankman]

With old wax residue on plastic trim, the pencil eraser is a quick and mess-free solution. Otherwise, if can still find some Meguiar's M39, that stuff removes dried wax residue with ease. Otherwise, Nexzet Deep Plastic Cleaner will work too.

I'm learning, wooo. So I appreciate the info. As I look around the car more and more the shop I used in Florida actually left a lot more residue than I initially thought. Literally over every plastic on the exterior. So I am going to purchase a m39 bottle you recommended. What's the typical process for that? Spray and micro fiber off ?

I also have another question regarding the wax they left in the jambs....it's freaking everywhere and also on the..I think it's rubber that seals the sides and front of the hood...there is literal wax residue everywhere. Old car I would just scrub till it's gone, but I'm not sure the process of not scratching everything to remove old wax from the rubber seals and sides of the hood, and jams ( doors and trunk ).

Please enlighten me master of stuff.

 

[DFB5.0]

I'm learning, wooo. So I appreciate the info. As I look around the car more and more the shop I used in Florida actually left a lot more residue than I initially thought. Literally over every plastic on the exterior. So I am going to purchase a m39 bottle you recommended. What's the typical process for that? Spray and micro fiber off ?

I also have another question regarding the wax they left in the jambs....it's freaking everywhere and also on the..I think it's rubber that seals the sides and front of the hood...there is literal wax residue everywhere. Old car I would just scrub till it's gone, but I'm not sure the process of not scratching everything to remove old wax from the rubber seals and sides of the hood, and jams ( doors and trunk ).

Please enlighten me master of stuff.

You might find it hard to find M39 now, it was discontinued a while ago now. Worth looking though as it was good stuff. Important to note they still make M40, but it doesn't have the same level of deep cleaning ability.

Second choice, and still very effective, Nextzett Deep Plastic Cleaner -

nextzett Plastic Deep Cleaner - Plastic car interior cleaner (nextzettusa.com)
nextzett 92441015 Plastic Deep Cleaner - 16.9 fl. oz. : Amazon.sg: Health, Household and Personal Care
Nextzett Plastikreiniger 500ml | Interior Plastic Deep Cleaner | The Clean Garage (clean-garage.com)

On plastic trim, I apply the product to a towel and rub the affected areas with towel, reapply as needed. In this case, I would load up the RaceGlaze brush with product and scrub each piece of trim with medium pressure. Do this after the wash and while still wet so that you can rinse the treated areas afterwards. Should take you about 10 minutes. After you are done, you can then apply some light plastic dressing like 303 Protectant or even a spray sealant like Carpro Reload or Adam's Slick n Slide.

For the door jambs and rubber trim, I would just use the Nexzett product, an IPA type product like Carpro Eraser (great glass cleaner as well) or an All-Purpose Cleaner. Spray the affected areas with product and gently agitate with a clean towel.

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