New 5.0 Coyote oil type and mileage questions?

[eleanor5oh]

Is the track pack goingto call for 5w50 again or whatever it was I forget. I just remember that it was like $100 for just the oil.

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[Tim Hilliard]

The owners manual does not call for it.

 

[wproctor411]

On my 350Z I've been using Mobil-1 10/30 with changes every 5000 miles or after every couple of track days. It's been working great for over 180,000 miles, so I don't plan on changing.

However, I do notice that at the track, when exiting after a session and the car is idling, the oil pressure will be extremely low.

Then, as I was following the C7 launch, I saw that GM recommends going to 15/50 oil for track use, which is much heavier than their standard recommendation.

I did not see such a recommendation in the 2015 Mustang manual, but using a 5/20 for the track seems sketchy given what I see with my Z.

Just curious what people do on their Mustangs when going to the track. Do you use a heavier weight oil, or stick with what is in the manual? I did notice some mention of a heavier recommended oil for the PP cars in previous years, so maybe that would be a good starting point for track use. How about the Boss 302? What oil did it recommend?

-T

Update to add oil type - i use Royal Purple XPR 5W20 oil, and also use leaded 100 at the track, so no catalytic converts which can clog faster than usual, IMO this combo really cleans out the engine.
I change mine after a few runs at the track or after some serious drag racing and burnout sessions. I check it for bits-n-pieces, metallics shavings or metal-sand. No issues in 4+ years/14,000 fairly hard driven miles minus a run to Deadwood SD.

 

[Kolyan24k]

Didn't many manufacturers switch to 5w20 just to meet some efficiency standards? I usually use 0w30 in all my cars, 5w30 should do the job too. My current car calls for either 10w30 or 5w40

 

[Chameleon]

Amsoil.

 

[souprmage]

I change mine every 6-8 weeks

I just find it odd that you change your oil so frequently. A simple oil test will tell you how your oil is doing and give you peace of mind.

On my F350 diesel, most people running tests get perfect checks easily up to 10k, and it's not until 12-14k that it's really starting to break down. Thus 10k is a very safe range. Granted, it's 15 qts.

Did you get into this 3333 mi. change frequency because of test results showing issues, or how did you come by it?

Also, it's pretty common for my F350 for people to change the filter at the 5k mark and then the oil and filter again at the 10k mark. It does make a difference, and it's not pushing the oil at all to go 10k. With a filter change mid way, the oil could even go further without issue, but you would want to test your oil to find out where your oil starts to show signs of wear. Everybody drives differently and you don't want to push the oil into the danger zone.

Although I think anyone that knows about how synthetics perform today would say changing at 3333 is beyond overkill.

 

[Tim Hilliard]

I just find it odd that you change your oil so frequently. A simple oil test will tell you how your oil is doing and give you peace of mind.

On my F350 diesel, most people running tests get perfect checks easily up to 10k, and it's not until 12-14k that it's really starting to break down. Thus 10k is a very safe range. Granted, it's 15 qts.

Did you get into this 3333 mi. change frequency because of test results showing issues, or how did you come by it?

Also, it's pretty common for my F350 for people to change the filter at the 5k mark and then the oil and filter again at the 10k mark. It does make a difference, and it's not pushing the oil at all to go 10k. With a filter change mid way, the oil could even go further without issue, but you would want to test your oil to find out where your oil starts to show signs of wear. Everybody drives differently and you don't want to push the oil into the danger zone.

Although I think anyone that knows about how synthetics perform today would say changing at 3333 is beyond overkill.

twice as many dry starts post filter changes. SOS analysis is much more practical especially with what quality oil costs, like you say filters are cheap, oil is not.

 

[cush]

Manual

Here's the manual. I hope it takes...

 

[cush]

Here's the manual. I hope it takes...

It looks like a fail, the attachment didn't load.

 

[planedoc]

I just find it odd that you change your oil so frequently. A simple oil test will tell you how your oil is doing and give you peace of mind.

On my F350 diesel, most people running tests get perfect checks easily up to 10k, and it's not until 12-14k that it's really starting to break down. Thus 10k is a very safe range. Granted, it's 15 qts.

Did you get into this 3333 mi. change frequency because of test results showing issues, or how did you come by it?

Also, it's pretty common for my F350 for people to change the filter at the 5k mark and then the oil and filter again at the 10k mark. It does make a difference, and it's not pushing the oil at all to go 10k. With a filter change mid way, the oil could even go further without issue, but you would want to test your oil to find out where your oil starts to show signs of wear. Everybody drives differently and you don't want to push the oil into the danger zone.

Although I think anyone that knows about how synthetics perform today would say changing at 3333 is beyond overkill.

The synthetic "oil" does last a very long time. The problem is, the best oil in the world, gets contaminated at the same rate as the cheapest! Also, with premium oils, whether synthetic of mineral based, only about half of what is in the can is actually the "oil" The rest of the fluid is composed of the various additive packages. Viscosity index modifiers, detergents, anti-foaming and anti-oxidents, friction modifiers etc. The additives break down far faster than the oil. If you want to receive the full benefits of the additives that increase the cost so much of premium oils, you need to change it often.
A 5W-20 multigrade oil is not a 20W that acts like a 5W when it's cold, it is a 5W that acts like a 20W when it's hot. This ability is accomplished by the viscosity index modifiers. What starts out as a 5w-20, degrades with use to 5w-15, 5w-10, etc. Eventually not providing the high temperature viscosity the engine needs when hot.
The oil is also contaminated with combustion by-products that do not show up in oil analysis. Combustion by-products are acidic, introducing corrosion causing agents into the lubricant. I want none of these in my engines, hence, I use the best oil available, Amsoil signature series IMHO, and change it frequently. I am not trying to convert anyone else to my way of thinking, you are all welcomed to do as you please, it is you car! But I will keep changing my oil frequently.... good luck to all...

 

[Todd15Fastback]

The synthetic "oil" does last a very long time. The problem is, the best oil in the world, gets contaminated at the same rate as the cheapest! Also, with premium oils, whether synthetic of mineral based, only about half of what is in the can is actually the "oil" The rest of the fluid is composed of the various additive packages. Viscosity index modifiers, detergents, anti-foaming and anti-oxidents, friction modifiers etc. The additives break down far faster than the oil. If you want to receive the full benefits of the additives that increase the cost so much of premium oils, you need to change it often.
A 5W-20 multigrade oil is not a 20W that acts like a 5W when it's cold, it is a 5W that acts like a 20W when it's hot. This ability is accomplished by the viscosity index modifiers. What starts out as a 5w-20, degrades with use to 5w-15, 5w-10, etc. Eventually not providing the high temperature viscosity the engine needs when hot.
The oil is also contaminated with combustion by-products that do not show up in oil analysis. Combustion by-products are acidic, introducing corrosion causing agents into the lubricant. I want none of these in my engines, hence, I use the best oil available, Amsoil signature series IMHO, and change it frequently. I am not trying to convert anyone else to my way of thinking, you are all welcomed to do as you please, it is you car! But I will keep changing my oil frequently.... good luck to all...

Thanks for all the insight. It is much appreciated.

 

[billy the k]

...What starts out as a 5w-20, degrades with use to 5w-15, 5w-10, etc. Eventually not providing the high temperature viscosity the engine needs when hot.
The oil is also contaminated with combustion by-products that do not show up in oil analysis. Combustion by-products are acidic, introducing corrosion causing agents into the lubricant. I want none of these in my engines, hence, I use the best oil available, Amsoil signature series IMHO, and change it frequently. I am not trying to convert anyone else to my way of thinking, you are all welcomed to do as you please, it is you car! But I will keep changing my oil frequently.... good luck to all...

Basic info like this little piece on the nature of motor oil is of great benefit to guys like myself, and your taking the time to explain it is most appreciated.

 

[Process]

I'll be running amsoil signature series 10w30 like I have with all of my coyotes. The TiVCT in these cars is not dependent on oil weight.

 

[Nanashii]

So is there a consensus on 5w-20 vs 5w-30? This is gonna be my first Coyote as well.

 

[Phlyguy]

As long as you don't buy the stuff sold in your local 7-11 next to the dollar-a-six-pack bargain basement beer I think you'll be okay with 5w-20 at all temperature ranges

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