NGOT8R
Well-Known Member
There are a few guys on here running them. I’m more interested in the No Lift Shift feature for racing than the 2-step feature, although I’d like to have the flexibility of using both if needed.
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donalexinder24
New Member
hello everyone
When I'm finished, I'll write about it. Please be patient with me, as I will not be in a rush to hack into the ECM wire harnesses. In the case of a WOT Box failure, I also have some additional suggestions to assist make my installation a bit more user pleasant. Keep an eye out! real estate istanbul
When I'm finished, I'll write about it. Please be patient with me, as I will not be in a rush to hack into the ECM wire harnesses. In the case of a WOT Box failure, I also have some additional suggestions to assist make my installation a bit more user pleasant. Keep an eye out! real estate istanbul
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NGOT8R
Well-Known Member
That’s great! We need more information on this. I am just wrapping up my install and after several days of research for workarounds on the green WOT Box wire (which I connected to the blue/orange clutch wire at the BCM is incorrect). While the blue/orange wire is indeed connected to the clutch switch, it’s not sending the signal that the WOt Box needs to see. I‘ve located a schematic on here (after a lot of digging) and it appears that there is a second clutch switch on the top side of the clutch assembly which is green/violet. That wire can Be traced back to pin #53 on the bottom ECU connector. Needless to say, I’m in the process of correcting this. I feel very confident that I will get it right this time.
NGOT8R
Well-Known Member
Damn! This keeps getting better and better (sarcastically speaking). Here I am looking for pin #53 in the bottom ECU connector (which I’ve located). The problem is, the wire color is different than the green/violet wire as indicated in the schematic. The actual wire color for pin #53 is gray. WTH? What a huge PITA. I sure wasn’t hoping for another twist in this install. Time to do some more digging before I cut the wire at pin #53. SMDH.
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NGOT8R
Well-Known Member
Update: Pin #53 (which happens to be a gray wire), does not work for the WOT Box clutch switch wire (green wire). I’ll try and give N2MB a call tomorrow for guidance. I’ve already put so much time into this ish, that it has to work one way or another. I’m going to take a seat on the bench for now and call it a day.
NGOT8R
Well-Known Member
We’ll, after about 6 days of research and working on this install, I am happy to report that “It is FINISHED!“ I learned a lot during those 6 days. I kept thinking of what the late Evel Knievel once said: “A man will fall many times in life, but he is never a failure until he refuses to get back up.” I had to see this through, for a few reasons:
1. Because I wanted No Lift Shifting, in hopes that it would help my MT82-D4 live a longer and healthier life (and Ford didn’t put it on the 18+ cars, as advertised).
2. I had put a lot of effort into the install to make it nice and clean (and I had literally cut a total of 3 wires in two of the three ECM connector wiring harnesses, plus one clutch switch wire).
In the end, it came down to some help from N2MB. I can’t say enough about the great tech support that they gave me last night, we worked together off and on until almost midnight, locating the Clutch Pedal Position wire (CPP1), troubleshooting and finally, Debugging and making a PIDControl clutch voltage change to 1.8V in the WOT Box software.
Now for other news (because it never stops right)? N2MB told me the wonderful news last night, that I will need their nitrous add-on to run nitrous with the WOT Box 2step and NLS. Time to order one up and get that installed.
For those who will be installing a WOT Box on a 2019 Bullitt (and presumably 6 speed GT), the instructions on N2MB’s website are correct, with the exception of where to connect the green WOT Box wire for the clutch signal. I suggest tapping into the harness inside the car like I did to simplify things, as the clutch switch harness can be easily removed from the car, so you can do your soldering on a workbench and tape everything back up nicely. Unfortunately, I didn’t take any pics of the harness afterward, but I do have pics of what it looks like removed from the car for reference. You will want to connect the green WOT Box wire to the solid yellow wire (CPP1).
Lastly, here is a pic of the software configuration that I am using for my WOT Box. I tested and the 2 step feature and then turned it off for now since I am running catted LTHs. I am only interested in the NLS feature for now.
1. Because I wanted No Lift Shifting, in hopes that it would help my MT82-D4 live a longer and healthier life (and Ford didn’t put it on the 18+ cars, as advertised).
2. I had put a lot of effort into the install to make it nice and clean (and I had literally cut a total of 3 wires in two of the three ECM connector wiring harnesses, plus one clutch switch wire).
In the end, it came down to some help from N2MB. I can’t say enough about the great tech support that they gave me last night, we worked together off and on until almost midnight, locating the Clutch Pedal Position wire (CPP1), troubleshooting and finally, Debugging and making a PIDControl clutch voltage change to 1.8V in the WOT Box software.
Now for other news (because it never stops right)? N2MB told me the wonderful news last night, that I will need their nitrous add-on to run nitrous with the WOT Box 2step and NLS. Time to order one up and get that installed.
For those who will be installing a WOT Box on a 2019 Bullitt (and presumably 6 speed GT), the instructions on N2MB’s website are correct, with the exception of where to connect the green WOT Box wire for the clutch signal. I suggest tapping into the harness inside the car like I did to simplify things, as the clutch switch harness can be easily removed from the car, so you can do your soldering on a workbench and tape everything back up nicely. Unfortunately, I didn’t take any pics of the harness afterward, but I do have pics of what it looks like removed from the car for reference. You will want to connect the green WOT Box wire to the solid yellow wire (CPP1).
Lastly, here is a pic of the software configuration that I am using for my WOT Box. I tested and the 2 step feature and then turned it off for now since I am running catted LTHs. I am only interested in the NLS feature for now.
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NGOT8R
Well-Known Member
I think your old one will work. Worst case scenario, John can set you up with the aforementioned PIDControl change and you’re back in the game. I‘m not sure, but it may have even just been something needed with my car. I’ve read of others with 2019 GTs that didn’t need to make that change.
Kidd
Well-Known Member
10-4
Also do you have link to the wiring diagram for these cars that clearly shows the upper and lower module plugs? I was looking last night night at mine and I’m embarrassed to say that I’m having trouble discerning which wiring harnesses to tap into.
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NGOT8R
Well-Known Member
Here’s the link to the instructions.10-4
Also do you have link to the wiring diagram for these cars that clearly shows the upper and lower module plugs? I was looking last night night at mine and I’m embarrassed to say that I’m having trouble discerning which wiring harnesses to tap into.
Note: The green wire (N2MB clutch switch wire) connects to the solid yellow wire (CPP1) in the factory clutch switch wiring harness shown in this pic.
NGOT8R
Well-Known Member
@donalexinder24, how did your WOT Box install turn out? Any information that you can share to help grow this thread would be greatly appreciated by many, who will be going down this road at some point. Thanks.