Mustang using oil

[Mad Horse]

I try and hit 7000 rpm every time I drive to make sure everything is seated well.only have 1300 mile a on it,so far so good

I went real easy when I broke mine in and I have problems. I broke in my 2012 like I stole it and never a problem.

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[Mad Horse]

Yep. Just left the dealership. They’re going to do the scope. May have it a while. They gave me a new explorer st to drive. That thing is bad. 400ho twin turbo V6. They should know something by tomorrow on my engine. I’ll post then.

The best my dealer will do on a loaner is a Focus.

 

[wade001]

The best my dealer will do on a loaner is a Focus.

i was thinking the same thing, out of all my experiences in getting a loaner.. its always been the slowest, crappiest, least equipped, base model that could possibly exist.. dont forget it has vinyl stickers all over the windows advertising their dealership..

OP got the diamond in the rough with that explorer loaner..

 

[darren13skylark]

I know, right. I was expecting a focus. I hope they keel the stang a while. Can’t believe how fast an explorer will move! It’s loaded too!

 

[darren13skylark]

Let me interject something else. I told my service rep that I had just order the roush cai. And how it has the sleeve you put in if you don’t want to do a tune. He said I would definitely want to do the tune to get the most out of it. I agreed but I told him I didn’t want to give up the warranty. He said it wouldn’t affect the warranty. He said they could do the tune there at the Ford dealership and would get me a price. Just wondering about this?

 

[Elp_jc]

All cylinders had some level of scuffing and scratches but nothing like #5

That looks like lugging the crap out of the engine. Curious if the car is manual or auto. My Platinum F-150 has the 10-sp, and even in sport mode, it can lug the engine. I always have 10th locked out, and 9th most of the time, especially in the city. Due to EPA and a 10-sp tranny, Ford is allowing gas engines to run like freaking diesels. Not good. People can do that with a manual too, if they don't know how to drive. That's why I don't want to buy a Bullitt with so many test-driven miles. At any rate, good luck with the fix.

 

[ice445]

I did an oil change on my 19 at 3000 miles and all was well. Checked the oil at 4000 miles and it wasn't even on the dip stick. It took almost 2 quarts. I decided to scope the cylinders. A photo of cylinder #5 is attached. All cylinders had some level of scuffing and scratches but nothing like #5. Brought it to the dealer and they did a consumption test where it used 2.6 quarts in 1000 miles. This was last November and since I was putting the car away for the winter, we decided to re-visit this spring. Well, now we're into this pandemic and my dealer is running with a skeleton crew so I'm just driving it and keeping an eye on the oil. I guessing a new short block in in my future.

I honestly don't know how that kind of damage happens in only 1000 miles.

Let me interject something else. I told my service rep that I had just order the roush cai. And how it has the sleeve you put in if you don’t want to do a tune. He said I would definitely want to do the tune to get the most out of it. I agreed but I told him I didn’t want to give up the warranty. He said it wouldn’t affect the warranty. He said they could do the tune there at the Ford dealership and would get me a price. Just wondering about this?

This only applies to the Ford Performance tune. As long as a ford dealer or ASE certified mechanic installs it, it gets tied into your 3 year/36K mile warranty. The only crappy thing is that AFTER the 3 year/36K (which starts from when the car was new, not when you flash the tune), you don't get the normal 5yr/60k powertrain warranty anymore. I mean I suppose that's fair since you are amping up the components, but you have to decide if it's worth it to you to lose the last third of your warranty when the car is already pretty fast stock.

 

[darren13skylark]

Yeah. I don’t think it’s worth it. I’d rather have the warranty especially with this issue with the oil usage at 5600 miles.

 

[Mad Horse]

That looks like lugging the crap out of the engine. Curious if the car is manual or auto. My Platinum F-150 has the 10-sp, and even in sport mode, it can lug the engine. I always have 10th locked out, and 9th most of the time, especially in the city. Due to EPA and a 10-sp tranny, Ford is allowing gas engines to run like freaking diesels. Not good. People can do that with a manual too, if they don't know how to drive. That's why I don't want to buy a Bullitt with so many test-driven miles. At any rate, good luck with the fix.

It's a manual and I don't lug it. My daily driving is typically between 3K to 5K rpm with an occasional blast up to 7K. I believe it's a broken ring land as others have had the same issue. This engine has had the rattle at light throttle openings between 2K and 2.5K rpm since about 1000 miles. Also has the typewriter tick on occasion. I'll bring it to the dealer once they get back up to speed and let them deal with it.

 

[Mad Horse]

I honestly don't know how that kind of damage happens in only 1000 miles.

It can happen in 100 feet. All it takes is for something to break, like a ring, and your cylinder is scored.

 

[darren13skylark]

Talked to dealership today. Said some issues in one of the cylinders. Spark plug was almost fouled out with all the oil there. Should know something tomorrow about how they are going to proceed. I’m guessing a new short block?

 

[darren13skylark]

New cylinder head!

 

[RalphK]

What went bad on the head?

 

[darren13skylark]

Not sure. That’s just what that told me. One side was bad other one was fine.

 

[NoVaGT]

I try and hit 7000 rpm every time I drive to make sure everything is seated well.only have 1300 mile a on it,so far so good

That's the way to do it!!!!

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