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MT82 Cannot get into first. Linkage or air ?

Biggsy

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The dealer replaced TOB and clutch master cylinder under warranty. I had them put in a Exedy Hyper Single while they dropped the transmission. I got the car back and now if I start the car in neutral I cannot get into first, but if I go into first while the car is off, then turn it on there are no issues. Regular driving on the road is fine. I have no problem up shifting or downshifting. After driving a bit on the highway, if I come to a stop light, I can go back into neutral and then go into first and take off with no problem. While stopped (and clutch still pressed in), if I were to go into first, then back to neutral, it wont go into first. So you can imagine stop and go traffic is not kind to me. A lot of times at a light or stop sign, or even in the parking lot, I have to turn my car off then put it into first (or reverse) before I turn it back on. If I am parking, I can go into reverse on the first try with no issues (but I do have to double clutch) and pull in but if I had to readjust and go back into first to pull forward, the shifter will not go into first. Its kind of embarrassing people blowing their horns at me because I have to turn my car off to get it in gear. I have to continuously watch the lights for the cross traffic so I can se if it'll get into first before my light turns green or I sit at the light with the clutch in.

So my first thought is that there is air in the system and maybe the tech didnt bleed the TOB before putting it in. The advisor at the deal said its not that and probably bad synchros or linkage. I didnt think you had to disconnect the shifter when dropping the trans so im thinking maybe the tech didnt know how to reinstall the MGW shifter. It was working perfectly before I took it to them (other than the bad TOB warranty issue).

So what could be the issue? I hope I captured everything and made sense. Thanks for any help or suggestions
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Magony15

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Probably still has air in the system. I have the same clutch and shifter. I don't have any problems getting it into any gears but I'm surprised you didn't mention the shuddering taking off from a dead stop. I'm finally learning that process the more I drive it. Only put a couple hundred miles on it so far. I doubt the mechanic would have messed with the one adjustment bolt on the MGW.
 
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Biggsy

Biggsy

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Probably still has air in the system. I have the same clutch and shifter. I don't have any problems getting it into any gears but I'm surprised you didn't mention the shuddering taking off from a dead stop. I'm finally learning that process the more I drive it. Only put a couple hundred miles on it so far. I doubt the mechanic would have messed with the one adjustment bolt on the MGW.
yea it definitely takes some getting used to. When I went from the steeda clutch spring to the stock one, I had to get used to it all over again. I have about 1200 miles on mine.

Im thinking its air but they are telling me its the synchros. I mean if they give me a brand new transmission for free, I wont necessarily be upset but if the problem still persists then it doesn't do me any good. Trying to get this together before end of May so I can attend my first event first week in June.
 

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Think there is air in the system also, sloppy maintenance .
 
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Biggsy

Biggsy

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Rapid Red

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sloppy maintenance on my part? If so, how?
First did not realize you did the work, so without that knowledge I made the call.

Now knowing you did the work, I will say go back and bleed the the system, again .

Crack the bleeder open and let it drip. Because the fluid is above the master cylinder and the lowest point in the system is the bleeder, it should push all of the air out of the lines and out of the ram or bearing. If this is a new system, you will get a few drops slowly and the speed will increase as the air is expelled until the fluid is consistently dripping. Close the bleeder screw, and top off the
 
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Biggsy

Biggsy

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First did not realize you did the work, so without that knowledge I made the call.

Now knowing you did the work, I will say go back and bleed the the system, again .

Crack the bleeder open and let it drip. Because the fluid is above the master cylinder and the lowest point in the system is the bleeder, it should push all of the air out of the lines and out of the ram or bearing. If this is a new system, you will get a few drops slowly and the speed will increase as the air is expelled until the fluid is consistently dripping. Close the bleeder screw, and top off the
I didnt do any of the work. I had my throw out bearing a nd clutch master cylinder replaced under warranty. While it was being replaced, I had them install a new clutch and flywheel. I didnt even install the shifter because a shop did a couple years who. So I'm a bit confused on what youre talking about. You seem to be referring to the brakes?(I say that because you mention bleeder screw)
 

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I didnt do any of the work. I had my throw out bearing a nd clutch master cylinder replaced under warranty. While it was being replaced, I had them install a new clutch and flywheel. I didnt even install the shifter because a shop did a couple years who. So I'm a bit confused on what youre talking about. You seem to be referring to the brakes?(I say that because you mention bleeder screw)
Your car does not have a hyd assist clutch ?
 
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Biggsy

Biggsy

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Your car does not have a hyd assist clutch ?
It does but Ford didn’t make them with bleeder screws or at least that’s what I thought. Do you have a diagram? If you don’t feel like looking for one then no worries.
 

steveespo

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There is no bleeder on Mustang hydraulic TOB. To bleed you need to apply vacuum at the reservoir let it hold at -20" for a minute, release, pump pedal 20 times and repeat. You will feel a difference in the pedal if air was still trapped. Repeat until pedal is firm. One other issue with the Hyper single is that the bearing is nit close enough to fully release the clutch and a .025" spacer behind the TOB is needed to allow full engagement. Good luck.
 

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I would try and bleed it again but I think you should put a factory tob back in. If the bleeding fixes the problem then you're fine but I doubt it cause you don't have problems in 2nd or 3rd just 1st, if air was the issue I think it would affect all gears the same. Air is air the tranny doesn't care what gear your I'm when you press the clutch. Do the easiest thing first and bleed the shit out of it. I heard it takes hundreds of pumps to bleed the clutch properly
 
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Biggsy

Biggsy

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There is no bleeder on Mustang hydraulic TOB. To bleed you need to apply vacuum at the reservoir let it hold at -20" for a minute, release, pump pedal 20 times and repeat. You will feel a difference in the pedal if air was still trapped. Repeat until pedal is firm. One other issue with the Hyper single is that the bearing is nit close enough to fully release the clutch and a .025" spacer behind the TOB is needed to allow full engagement. Good luck.
Hi Steve. I think you were actually trying to help me with this issue a couple weeks ago in the TMO FB group. I did use the vacuum pump and I thought it was good to go but still ended up with the same problem. I tried with the pump for 3 days straight and nothing. This is the first time I am hearing about the Hyper Single and spacer behind the TOB. Is it a hit or miss occurrence?


I would try and bleed it again but I think you should put a factory tob back in. If the bleeding fixes the problem then you're fine but I doubt it cause you don't have problems in 2nd or 3rd just 1st, if air was the issue I think it would affect all gears the same. Air is air the tranny doesn't care what gear your I'm when you press the clutch. Do the easiest thing first and bleed the shit out of it. I heard it takes hundreds of pumps to bleed the clutch properly
it does. It took forever when I put in my stainless clutch line. I even used a vacuum pump. Also, it is the OEM TOB because it was changed under warranty.
 
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Biggsy

Biggsy

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silverbullet85

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At work when we try vacuum pumps to bleed the brakes on the work trucks they never work right. The good old fashioned pump and hold works every time. Just try pumping the clutch 100 to 200 times slowly and then test drive then let us know what you find
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