More boost with less RPM question

[markmurfie]

Gen5 blower upgrade or go to a turbo setup, both would be safer than dropping another pulley. Lots of HP to free up from the parasitic losses of the older Whipple.

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[mindo389]

Unless your oil pan can keep your rotating assembly intact... Blown top fuel drag racing engines go with higher boost pressures with lower compression. Usually 6.5::1 to 7.0::1 compression to absorb up 65psi manifold pressure.

 

[WildHorse]

Usually 6.5::1 to 7.0::1 compression to absorb up 65psi manifold pressure.

Great if you're making 10000+ horsepower.

 

[RockStang]

Well Midnight racing already pushed a bone stock/sealed IE: never opened coyote into the 7's with a shit load of boost.

Turbo car?

 

[WildHorse]

Turbo car?

Yep

 

[Jackson1320]

If you don’t care about the motor lasting. Run that thing to 8000 and add more boost. It might not last 30,000 miles but that’s not the point. go get that timeslip. Are you trying to do it on stock motor or stock bottom end. because if you just want to stock bottom end get new valve springs and rev to 8500

 

[RockStang]

If you don’t care about the motor lasting. Run that thing to 8000 and add more boost. It might not last 30,000 miles but that’s not the point. go get that timeslip. Are you trying to do it on stock motor or stock bottom end. because if you just want to stock bottom end get new valve springs and rev to 8500

Stock longblock. It was never really a goal but as you start creeping closer it's like why not. I might have to just grow a pair and turn it up.

 

[beefcake]

depends on what you want. same power at a lower rpm will be a little slower.

if you have 3 cars 100% identical, weight suspension, etc. and you have 1 that makes peak power at 7k, 1 at 8k and 1 at 9k, the 9k will be quicker than the 8, the 8 will be quicker than the 7.

couple reason,s, you have a better average power band, and you drop less between the shifts, which goes back to #1...

 

[sigintel]

I ran a Whippled 2015 on road courses for 2 seasons. 8x20 minute sessions per weekend. After tires warm, its alot of WOT.
I ran shifts at 7900. 8-12 psi depending on ambient, 3.625-4.0 pulleys
changed primary chains after every season as they lash out after hrs above 7900 w lots of on/off throttle at high rpm.

After I cooked rings in #8 and was 160-180 compression, I ran without ECU rev limiter and just used trans shift points 6R80 at 8200.
When trans faulted out and went to neutral during a 2-3 shift, she ate lunch around 8550 rpm catching a valve and locking cam and pistons. Had the upgraded primary chains that didnt break sooooo:
Cam tells timing chain to stop moving.
Chain tells forged timing gear heeyyoh.
Pistons are all like ...werd, shit in way yo.
Mean while the 8500rpm Whipple still screamming MoooowwPOWWAAHhhh!
So the ATI grabbed the crank snout and they were like... peace out bitches!

sry bad pun.

Nothing like silently rolling to a stop except for the whirring noise from the spinning ATI ricocheting around under the hood.
whhing dingdingding wrrrrrrr clunk whing ding ding wrrrrrrrrrRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrrr.
Buddy: Whats that noise?
Me: Pretty sure that was the crankdamper.
Buddy: think it will restart?
Me: ....

 

[RockStang]

depends on what you want. same power at a lower rpm will be a little slower.

if you have 3 cars 100% identical, weight suspension, etc. and you have 1 that makes peak power at 7k, 1 at 8k and 1 at 9k, the 9k will be quicker than the 8, the 8 will be quicker than the 7.

couple reason,s, you have a better average power band, and you drop less between the shifts, which goes back to #1...

Thanks Terry. Good info to have from a racing perspective.

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