My LP water heater is 20 years old this year. They are awesome. Electric=FTMFLGas water heaters last forever since they don’t have an electromagnetic field inside them. 25-30 years.
The anode rod is just a sacrificial piece of metal that gets eaten first by the electrical charge. Pretty much the same process as chrome plating. Most people are more familiar with them on boat motors.
I've yet to see any hard data that says the 18+ sprockets are forged. I'll hit mine with a hammer when I get home and see... I may even have the one from my 2017 lying around for comparison.wait, so the so-called "forged" updated part is still this fragile? It doesn't matter what materials you use when there isn't enough thickness, period.
@nate20gtThis actually happened again 9k miles after the new short block. Got a new long this time. Let's see how long this one lasts. It's currently got 1k miles on it.
May as well just replace the sprocket with a forged one while your in there installing the tensioners.Ford is still doing this sintered crap? The only way to mitigate damage if you persist in using Ford garbage part is the ratcheting cam chain tensioner
what needs to happen is to beat the tar out of the dumb-ass Ford engineer. Change the crank nose diameter down by 1-1.5mm, maybe as much as 2 and that way put some meat under that part. The choice of mod and tooth count constrain the OD they can work with so you compensate in this case on the ID. There's nothing else on the shaft at this location that a diameter change will hurt.May as well just replace the sprocket with a forged one while your in there installing the tensioners.
I think the likelyhood of Ford changing the design is .000001%. Pretty much every engine in existance has some sort of weak point, or design flaw that made it to production. The "oil pressure only" chain tensioner is in my opinion, an unforgivable mistake. I think the crank sprocket failures may in fact be a result of the chain chattering or bouncing momentarily on the sprocket at startup, which is causing added stress and wear. (just my educated guess, no actual data to support it)what needs to happen is to beat the tar out of the dumb-ass Ford engineer. Change the crank nose diameter down by 1-1.5mm, maybe as much as 2 and that way put some meat under that part. The choice of mod and tooth count constrain the OD they can work with so you compensate in this case on the ID. There's nothing else on the shaft at this location that a diameter change will hurt.